My Wismec Noisy Cricket II in serial mode fires more volts in the lower settings.

[vape4taste]

My Wismec Noisy Cricket II in serial mode on the lower setting I think it gives more volts than 2. My cotton burns while this is not happening in paraller.
It is from the first ones since it has the volts button rotating the other direction than the newer ones.
Do you know this issue with volts can be fixed?

 

[greek mule]

The lower setting is 100 I think.

"There is no indication on the wheel telling you what voltage you're on, it just says 0 on 100.At least on my mod 0 means full throttle (6V) and 100 means... well minimum throttle (2V)."

 

[Don29palms]

Best Price For Official authorized Wismec Noisy Cricket II-25 Box Mod

Looks like there is 2 settings in series mode and voltage is adjustable only in series mode.

 

[sonicbomb]

I just had to bin mine after a couple of years of reliable service, I dropped it one too many times.

Remember there is unregulated parallel, unregulated series and regulated series where the wheel comes into effect.

I know there are supposed to be specific voltage outputs for specific positions on the wheel. In use I found that these are neither accurate nor consistent. When I tested the output voltage under load at the maximum and minimum wheel positions they did not match what Wismec said. Also as the batteries start to get low the regulated wattage starts to dip even if the selected output voltage 'should' be over 6.8 volts (the cutoff is 3.4 volts for each cell).

None of this really matters imo. The point of a mod without a screen or a chipset is that you operate it by feel/taste/experience. You choose a coil resistance that gives you a range of output values, and then you dial it in the rest of the way manually.

All other two battery mods seem like over complicated house bricks after using the NC-2-25. I have a new one on order.

 

[vape4taste]

Under series regulated mode (orange light) I belive that in zero position of the voltage switch I'm getting more than 2 volts since it hits harder than the Paraller mode.

I had remove the voltage switch (cover ) and I had check the screw and it is not going any lower.

 

[greek mule]

In my #2 post I told you to try with the weel at 100.That setting outputs 2 V

 

[vape4taste]

In my #2 post I told you to try with the weel at 100.That setting outputs 2 V

mine gives 6v at 100

 

[Spey]

mine gives 6v at 100

I own 2nd Gen version NC-II/25. Potentiometer wheel numerics are reversed from 1st Gen version (per OP comments).

1st Gen Version
0 - 100 numerics = 2v - 6v output. Adjusts potentiometer output.
Higher number = Hotter vape.

VS

2nd Gen Version
0 - 100 numerics = 6v - 2v.
Adjusts potentiometer output reduction % (lower number = lower output reduction, higher number = higher output reduction).
Higher number = Cooler vape.

I used a 1st Gen before buying a 2nd Gen and have seen how this feature control changed/reversed (as OP has referenced). Some may not be aware, or may not understand how a potentiometer works, and/or how a potentiometer reading in percentage works. A potentioneter is a manually adjustable variable resistor, where higher resistance = lower output.

I find that occasionally, when switching from unregulated parallel to regulated series, that the NC-II will fire at full output upon first firing unless potentioneter is adjusted after changeover (both on 1st & 2nd Gen versions).

ALSO, The coil(s) installed will have effect on whether parallel unregulated or series regulated (at minimal ouput)will be hotter.

Example: when I run coil at 0.2ohm parrallel unregulated and switch to series regulated at 100 (max resistance value on end Gen aka lowest output), the vape is hotter (same result described by OP, but opposite potentiometer wheel rotation & numerics). I can run in parallel unregulated until vape becomes weak from low power, then switch to series regulated to increase vape temp until can get fresh batt's.

I find that somewhere between 0.2 - 0.17ohm that series regulated does not work (coil(s) resistance too low).

To reduce minimum output, on series regulated, increase amount of wire mass of coil(s) and resistances of coil(s). In my example above, I would increase to a 0.25 - 0.35ohm build.

Hopefully something helpfully here.
Regards

 

[vape4taste]

I own 2nd Gen version NC-II/25. Potentiometer wheel numerics are reversed from 1st Gen version (per OP comments).

1st Gen Version
0 - 100 numerics = 2v - 6v output. Adjusts potentiometer output.
Higher number = Hotter vape.

VS

2nd Gen Version
0 - 100 numerics = 6v - 2v.
Adjusts potentiometer output reduction % (lower number = lower output reduction, higher number = higher output reduction).
Higher number = Cooler vape.

I used a 1st Gen before buying a 2nd Gen and have seen how this feature control changed/reversed (as OP has referenced). Some may not be aware, or may not understand how a potentiometer works, and/or how a potentiometer reading in percentage works. A potentioneter is a manually adjustable variable resistor, where higher resistance = lower output.

I find that occasionally, when switching from unregulated parallel to regulated series, that the NC-II will fire at full output upon first firing unless potentioneter is adjusted after changeover (both on 1st & 2nd Gen versions).

ALSO, The coil(s) installed will have effect on whether parallel unregulated or series regulated (at minimal ouput)will be hotter.

Example: when I run coil at 0.2ohm parrallel unregulated and switch to series regulated at 100 (max resistance value on end Gen aka lowest output), the vape is hotter (same result described by OP, but opposite potentiometer wheel rotation & numerics). I can run in parallel unregulated until vape becomes weak from low power, then switch to series regulated to increase vape temp until can get fresh batt's.

I find that somewhere between 0.2 - 0.17ohm that series regulated does not work (coil(s) resistance too low).

To reduce minimum output, on series regulated, increase amount of wire mass of coil(s) and resistances of coil(s). In my example above, I would increase to a 0.25 - 0.35ohm build.

Hopefully something helpfully here.
Regards

You were very helpfull Spey, this is what is happenning most of the times, causing me a burn sensation in the series regulated mode (orange light)
I loved the minimalistic design of NC-II/25, sits perfect in the hand but I can only use it in parrallel
thank you for the confirmation reply

 

[Pigs]

I just had to bin mine after a couple of years of reliable service, I dropped it one too many times.

Remember there is unregulated parallel, unregulated series and regulated series where the wheel comes into effect.

I know there are supposed to be specific voltage outputs for specific positions on the wheel. In use I found that these are neither accurate nor consistent. When I tested the output voltage under load at the maximum and minimum wheel positions they did not match what Wismec said. Also as the batteries start to get low the regulated wattage starts to dip even if the selected output voltage 'should' be over 6.8 volts (the cutoff is 3.4 volts for each cell).

None of this really matters imo. The point of a mod without a screen or a chipset is that you operate it by feel/taste/experience. You choose a coil resistance that gives you a range of output values, and then you dial it in the rest of the way manually.

All other two battery mods seem like over complicated house bricks after using the NC-2-25. I have a new one on order.

I agree. I've got a few and they truly are a "feel" mod. Another classic JayBo design

 

[Pigs]

I own 2nd Gen version NC-II/25. Potentiometer wheel numerics are reversed from 1st Gen version (per OP comments).

1st Gen Version
0 - 100 numerics = 2v - 6v output. Adjusts potentiometer output.
Higher number = Hotter vape.

VS

2nd Gen Version
0 - 100 numerics = 6v - 2v.
Adjusts potentiometer output reduction % (lower number = lower output reduction, higher number = higher output reduction).
Higher number = Cooler vape.

I used a 1st Gen before buying a 2nd Gen and have seen how this feature control changed/reversed (as OP has referenced). Some may not be aware, or may not understand how a potentiometer works, and/or how a potentiometer reading in percentage works. A potentioneter is a manually adjustable variable resistor, where higher resistance = lower output.

I find that occasionally, when switching from unregulated parallel to regulated series, that the NC-II will fire at full output upon first firing unless potentioneter is adjusted after changeover (both on 1st & 2nd Gen versions).

ALSO, The coil(s) installed will have effect on whether parallel unregulated or series regulated (at minimal ouput)will be hotter.

Example: when I run coil at 0.2ohm parrallel unregulated and switch to series regulated at 100 (max resistance value on end Gen aka lowest output), the vape is hotter (same result described by OP, but opposite potentiometer wheel rotation & numerics). I can run in parallel unregulated until vape becomes weak from low power, then switch to series regulated to increase vape temp until can get fresh batt's.

I find that somewhere between 0.2 - 0.17ohm that series regulated does not work (coil(s) resistance too low).

To reduce minimum output, on series regulated, increase amount of wire mass of coil(s) and resistances of coil(s). In my example above, I would increase to a 0.25 - 0.35ohm build.

Hopefully something helpfully here.
Regards

I bought my first one in early 2017. Higher number is a lower V output. Question for you Spey - is there a visual difference between Gen 1 and Gen 2?

 

[sonicbomb]

I just bought a new one, and I didn't know there were different versions? Bugger.

 

[Pigs]

I just bought a new one, and I didn't know there were different versions? Bugger.

Hey only my mum's allowed to talk to me like that

 

[sonicbomb]

I AM your mum...

 

[Pigs]

I AM your mum...

We HAVE NO MUMS

 

[sonicbomb]

...brother