Need advice

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Bootiewootsy

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Dec 14, 2014
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Port Orange, Florida, USA
I have been trying to get my husband on giving up all cigs.. He has vaping gear, eleaf 30,Itaste clk1280, and a couple of nic vape variable batteries.
He has to have surgery for bladder tumor and for are anniversary I got him the Nano for the 30. I put the 1.2 ohm in and it is to strong and hot of a vape for him, besides to much air with just the one hole open.. I make my own coils and want to know what amp coil I should make and what drip tip would be smaller to use as the air is to much for him.
I usually use 32 size kanthal wire, have 24.,26,28 and 32 gauge.
Would like for him to be able to use this namo as I love them, but I have been vaping for some time and gave up cigs the day I first vapped..
Thanks for taking time to help
Carol
 

MacTechVpr

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Aug 24, 2013
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Hollywood (Beach), FL
Yes the Kanger Subtanks disperse a lot of vapor heating it with the oversized coils after vaporization. The factory coil production lacks in vapor density. And this tank requires a lot of wicking with a larger diameter and overall size needed to provide adequate juice flow. So 32 AWG straight is not going to be the best here.

Part of the problem may be a vacuum issue impeding flow tho too. The juice flow should not be that thin with one hole. Try removing the drip tip covering the airhole/s and blowing lightly on the atomizer. This will reduce of vacuum a bit especially when the tank is near full and also when vaped hard and less than half full. Simple test. This can also happen the other way with too much vacuum and no flow which can result in a tight draw or dry hits. You'd do the opposite then drawing lighty to add some vacuum pressure. Again with the airhole/s covered.

Try to build a tensioned microcoil. It's done on a pin vise and takes seconds. It yields a more saturated denser (and so cooler) vape…at whatever resistance temp you select. If 1.2Ω was a bit warm for the leaf try a thicker gauge as well. This will lend to the vaporization density if you also go to a slightly cooler resistance, like…8/7 28 AWG on 7/64", LL=14mm, t.m.c. = 1.695Ω.

I like 7/64" drill bit as it will fit inside the wick holes so you can run the bit through the holes and coil at the same time. This will allow you to stabilize the coil and make sure the end turns are tight and matched up to the rest of the coil in tension as you likewise match up the taughtness of the leads while setting the insulator and pin. This diameter will thus allow the maximum amount of wick possible. You can use larger diameters but stabilizing the wind becomes problematical.

I'm working on more variants of these simple winds and you may see more on the thread Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! as well as more background on tensioned micro coils and stabilized clearo builds.

Admire your wanting to help your husband and hope this helps. If you need me please give me a shout out on the above thread.

Good luck C and Happy Easter.

:)


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MacTechVpr

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Hollywood (Beach), FL
Thanks so much, for all your help.
I think I understand MacTech what you are saying and will give it a try.. I may be asking for more help..lol
Thanks for the photo also. It certainly helps.
Will let you know how I progress
Carol

I'm certainly pleased to try B. Helps if you know how to use a pin vise. Many of you ladies do and are far better at us than us fella's. Lot of info on the Protank thread but if you get hung up don't hesitate to give me a nudge.

Best of luck.

:)
 
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