I have a black hawk panzer mod I've been using for a few months now and I love it but recently everytime I take a hit the fire button and mod itself gets extremely hot I have a dual parallel coil build at .20 ohms and that's usually what I use and it never did that but now it is I can't figure it out I have it on a stillare dripper with a chuff enough tip and I'm switching from a sony vtc5 18650 2100mah and a yellow lg battery that's brand new but it still happens any ideas?
Need help asap
- Thread starter Ccain18
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Well a 30 second google search turned up this...
cheaptech panzer problem
Black Panzer Clone hot button
http://....................../threads/panzer-clone-from-angelcigs-problem-anyone-else.7534/
"I have the same Mod. I picked it up a few minutes ago & it was really HOT. Can't hold it hot. Found the problem. The pin that un screws in the cap and over use loosened to the point of contact with the battery. I took 2 tiny O rings and placed it so it screws snug against the cap. Won't move danger averted."
"Ok, I think I might have figured it out by reading discussions on FT about one of their Panzer clones. The Firing Pin could be too large and so it shorts out by making contact with both the outside and the center pin on the tank...
""First thing I'd do is to check the button contacts are clean and making a solid conection with the battery. All the mods I've had with a "hot button" have had contact issues with the battery "
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Have you checked it for shorts? Have you cleaned the mod recently?
Also, if I'm not mistaken, that LG battery is a 20A max discharge, which at .2 ohms puts you at 21A on a fresh battery. Overdrawing the battery can cause it to overheat and eventually (usually instantaneously) go into catastrophic failure.
Also, if I'm not mistaken, that LG battery is a 20A max discharge, which at .2 ohms puts you at 21A on a fresh battery. Overdrawing the battery can cause it to overheat and eventually (usually instantaneously) go into catastrophic failure.
How can I check it for shorts? And yeah I cleaned the whole thing top to bottom yesterday but when I bought the battery the guy told me I could run it as low as .15 ohms but it would be risky and running .20ohms would be fine I've never had a problem with it until I built my last set of coils but I always use the same coil build and same ohms I just don't understand I can hit it once and it's fine then the second time even if I take a break that's when it'll get hot the firing button gets hot first and the hotter that gets then the mod will start to get hot but if I take the battery out right away the battery isn't hot
You'll need an ohm meter/multi-meter to check for shorts. Measure the coil resistance with the atty disconnected from the mod and verify that it reads .2 ohms. Then screw it back onto the mod and check it again. There may be something internal in the mod that is shorting out. Also you'll want to check the mod for dirty contacts and threads. Everything should be clean and free from corrosion, otherwise you are adding resistance where there should be none.
The Blackhawk Panzer clone is known to short like a beast. Some people resorted to scraping off ALL the black coating, which results in slightly better results.
My advice to you is to get a better mod. The Blackhawk Panzer is a terribly sketchy mod, and the fact that it was getting too hot to handle means it's definitely not safe to use.
Additionally, because it's shorting, it has SICK voltage drop. Your .2 ohm coil is actually probably firing like a .5+ ohm coil, with that extra voltage being dumped straight into the mod itself. You will not only be safer by getting a different mod, you'll get FAR better results.
My advice to you is to get a better mod. The Blackhawk Panzer is a terribly sketchy mod, and the fact that it was getting too hot to handle means it's definitely not safe to use.
Additionally, because it's shorting, it has SICK voltage drop. Your .2 ohm coil is actually probably firing like a .5+ ohm coil, with that extra voltage being dumped straight into the mod itself. You will not only be safer by getting a different mod, you'll get FAR better results.
I just it on the ohms reader reading exactly .20ohms and there's nothing built up inside I heard with dual paraelle builds when building they can't overlap I don't think mine did but if so would that be causing it? Should I just do a new coil
Basically trace all of the metal contacts from the battery to the pin and make sure they are not touching anything that would ground out the unit. Even a metal shaving crossing the wires could make it short out. Most of the problems I saw with your mod are from the pin at the top touching the battery where it shouldn't be. Some people said the pin was touching both contacts in their tank/dripper. This mod is as simple as a common light bulb socket and you should be able to follow the leads very easily.
You should definitely try a new coil. Don't screw your RDA/Tank in too tight. Back it off some and see if you still get the short.
You should definitely try a new coil. Don't screw your RDA/Tank in too tight. Back it off some and see if you still get the short.
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I still love my carbon fiber Knight mod... super simple and very reliable. It's carbon fiber over copper. Even with super sub-ohm builds I've never had it get hot on me. I use either Sony VTC4's or the Xtar 30A's...
This is my next purchase... https://www.eleafus.com/istick-50w.html
$48.99 http://101vape.com/variable-voltagewattage-devices/600-eleaf-istick-50-watt.html#/color-blue
$48.99 http://101vape.com/variable-voltagewattage-devices/600-eleaf-istick-50-watt.html#/color-blue
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I've been all about that box life for a while now, I recommend it. There are a bunch of great VV/VW box dual 18650 (series) box mods out there, and at pretty competitive prices. The Sigelei 100W+ boxes are pretty nice, I definitely like the button and they're very user-friendly. The IPV3 is alright, I have one myself, but it has its quirks (the non-magnetic door is a bummer). I also have a custom-made Hammond box mod with an OKL-T20 chip (110W max), and it's my go-to every-day vape.
With 2x 18650 batteries and variable voltage, I can easily make it last all day. The benefits of VV are also that you can build more variations of coils and just adjust the voltage to your coil. With a mech mod, you're building to whatever voltage your battery can dump out. For example, my 14-wrap .55 ohm coil is FANTASTIC at 60W on my box. Huge clouds, great flavor, the surface-area really makes it shine. I can out-cloud a .2 ohm/mech mod on my .55 ohm/box any day. On a mech, locked at 4.2V (a battery at full charge) it's a fairly unsatisfying vape.
Box mods also tend to eliminate issues such as voltage drop or hot button (besides the tiny voltage drop lost to the chip), which speaks to the particular problem you're having with the Blackhawk.
In terms of mech mod options, I haven't bought a new one in a LONG time (a year or so). Box mod lyfe. I've been eyeing up a SMPL clone, which I've heard are fairly decent quality. igetcha69 on YouTube does a lot of mech mod reviews, might shell out the big bux for a nice authentic as per his recommendation. Also Bombies/VapeApe have been working together to make a pretty neat-looking mod. There are pictures of it on the Bombies Instagram.
If the Blackhawk is still getting hot, please stop using it. For your safety.
You do not want your batteries to vent a 2 foot flame at your face or explode like a pipe bomb. If you can't fix it, toss it.
The Paragon clones seem to be alright. I know a friend with an authentic and he swears by it, but he doesn't take it out anywhere (kind of defeating the point).
The Sigelei isn't hard to use by any means. Having variability just means you can dial in your vape according to how you like. When I build a new coil I usually start stupid-low, to where the coil is barely producing vapor, and slowly work my way up until I find the sweet spot. The Sigelei can read ohms, so you can hit the fire button and very quickly see if you're too low/too high/not hitting your target ohms. It's also nice because, in the future, you can use it to spot-check ohms before you slap something on a mech mod. I think it's honestly one of the better choices for someone new to vaping because it gives you a screen with tons of information (battery levels, etc.), plus you have protections so that even if you DO mess up, you won't end up blowing your hands/face/stuff off.
The Sigelei isn't hard to use by any means. Having variability just means you can dial in your vape according to how you like. When I build a new coil I usually start stupid-low, to where the coil is barely producing vapor, and slowly work my way up until I find the sweet spot. The Sigelei can read ohms, so you can hit the fire button and very quickly see if you're too low/too high/not hitting your target ohms. It's also nice because, in the future, you can use it to spot-check ohms before you slap something on a mech mod. I think it's honestly one of the better choices for someone new to vaping because it gives you a screen with tons of information (battery levels, etc.), plus you have protections so that even if you DO mess up, you won't end up blowing your hands/face/stuff off.
Just to clarify... by "stuff" he means if it accidentally autofires while in your front pocket... that could be un-fun!
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