Need help! New to forum... Kamryk100 with Pro Tank mini2
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Welcome to the board. Your 18650 battery is in a mod I assume. If it has a VV (Variable Voltage) setting it could be set to high. What unit do you put the battery in? 
I'm an idiot. Missed the K100 part somehow!!!
I'm an idiot. Missed the K100 part somehow!!!
OK. Know what you are using now. I use a K1000 epipe and have had a similar experience when I install a fresh battery. Slight burnt taste if I hit it too much or too long. I'm using a 1.5 ohm carto so 2.2 ohm should be fine for you. Have you tried more than one 2.2 ohm coil. It could have a short. There wasn't a mention of over current protection in the K100 description.
Your battery is fine, on full charge it's going to be 4.2 volts as is any 18650 battery. With a 2.2Ω coil that would be about 8 watts, not excessively high but a nice warm vape.
The likely problem is your liquid isn't getting to the coil fast enough, the coil isn't being wet enough for a good tasting vape. Check your connections for the coil, and also your gaskets. If a gasket is blocking the flow you'll get dry hits.
One solution to try is taking a few draws without hitting the fire button to draw in more liquid to the coil.
The likely problem is your liquid isn't getting to the coil fast enough, the coil isn't being wet enough for a good tasting vape. Check your connections for the coil, and also your gaskets. If a gasket is blocking the flow you'll get dry hits.
One solution to try is taking a few draws without hitting the fire button to draw in more liquid to the coil.
I'm really new at this, but isn't the K100 a mech mod (I have a K101, which is a mech mod)? So no "current protection"?
Yup, K100 is a mech mod, the bottom tube has grooves in it that the K101 doesn't have, otherwise identical. So no "current protection", which would only come into play for a short circuit...would have no effect as far as a burnt taste would go.
Burnt taste is usually a sign there isn't enough liquid on the coil for the voltage you are running. So increase the juice (e-liquid) or decrease the juice (voltage)....
For some reason when I change out my mod to smaller 18350 I get not burnt taste even with faster or longer hits... Only when I put the 18650 battery? Instead of using 99% VG I switched out to a juice with less less VG(if that even makes a difference in my protank)
I'm Kinna simple and am not into dripping... Maybe need to get my mod built to get more use out of it
I'm Kinna simple and am not into dripping... Maybe need to get my mod built to get more use out of it
For some reason when I change out my mod to smaller 18350 I get not burnt taste even with faster or longer hits... Only when I put the 18650 battery? Instead of using 99% VG I switched out to a juice with less less VG(if that even makes a difference in my protank)
I'm Kinna simple and am not into dripping... Maybe need to get my mod built to get more use out of it
I run the k101 currently and have had that issue on a few attys. Got a couple questions that may help figure out what's going on.
My first question is why the high VG juice? Part of the lack of wicking and therefore burnt taste from dry hits could be from the high VG content, even with 80% VG though my pro tank 2 worked flawlessly.
About the voltage and resistance, you should only get about 3.7 volts at the atty (not counting voltage drop) with a non-vv mech mod that is not using a kick so my first thought is going to be the high VG content.
Also, with the pro tank I have found that it can be helpful to "cold-hit" or hit the new coil head without firing the device to help prime the fresh coil. It should only be needed on a new coil for about 30 seconds or so and not needed after that. If it continues it could be just a bad coil.
Hope that helps.
Not sure why such high VG. Did some research and read for protank mini top, better with more PG than VG. I am still really clueless of whats the difference... Supposedly for fatter clouds? Better throat hit? Maybe u can help me understand. LOL. Even when I used the 99 %VG the wick was pretty absorbed...
I have tried the cold hit... With the 18650 battery was still burnt tasting.. Threw 2 coil units out... Hmmmm.....
pg will carry flavor better, and does produce a slightly stronger th, it is also thinner so the more of it the faster the wicks can carry it to the coils to be heated and turned to vapor.
vg some will find sweeter and will mute flavor very slightly, reduces th compared to pg, and being thicker also makes for nice clouds. however being thicker will take longer to get the liquid to the coil.
some where between 80pg/20 vg and 20pg/80vg seems to be most peoples happy spot, however there are those that have pg or vg allergies and need to be closer to 100% of the other one they can use.
now your issue may not even be the juice or the battery. The 18650 and 18350 will supply the same amount of power, the 18650 may do it for longer. One thing I have noticed with the k100 which is currently my mod of choice is the 18650 will hit harder, I have noticed this in general use and by checking the voltage drop. Something about the tube being fully extended allows less of a drop its very minor but .4volts makes a huge difference in vaping of about 1 1/2 watts which is a lot of heat difference. A kick can help fix this problem as you can set the wattage to what you like only down side is it wont work with the 18650 in the k100.
now the other thing I have noticed is that some devices where the air holes are located by the threading below the base they get blocked on the k100. This will affect the suction needed for wicking. You can try using a 510-510 adapter they are cheap (under 2 dollars) from most vendors. this will raise the tank up a bit and may help. combined a reduced air flow, slowed wicking and more power and its burnt city.
vg some will find sweeter and will mute flavor very slightly, reduces th compared to pg, and being thicker also makes for nice clouds. however being thicker will take longer to get the liquid to the coil.
some where between 80pg/20 vg and 20pg/80vg seems to be most peoples happy spot, however there are those that have pg or vg allergies and need to be closer to 100% of the other one they can use.
now your issue may not even be the juice or the battery. The 18650 and 18350 will supply the same amount of power, the 18650 may do it for longer. One thing I have noticed with the k100 which is currently my mod of choice is the 18650 will hit harder, I have noticed this in general use and by checking the voltage drop. Something about the tube being fully extended allows less of a drop its very minor but .4volts makes a huge difference in vaping of about 1 1/2 watts which is a lot of heat difference. A kick can help fix this problem as you can set the wattage to what you like only down side is it wont work with the 18650 in the k100.
now the other thing I have noticed is that some devices where the air holes are located by the threading below the base they get blocked on the k100. This will affect the suction needed for wicking. You can try using a 510-510 adapter they are cheap (under 2 dollars) from most vendors. this will raise the tank up a bit and may help. combined a reduced air flow, slowed wicking and more power and its burnt city.
I am using my k101 with a protank 2 at the moment, it has burned through coils FAST, I had no problems with I clear 30s on it. I am thinking the dual coil may disperse the power a little better. All those wicks can't hurt either.
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Deleon, possibly the best explanation yet, gotta bookmark that one for later.
Since I diy my own I get to play with pg/VG blends and have found that for me 80% VG works the best but anything above that seems to clog up most coil heads in most tanks. I use a dripper/RDA so it doesn't make any difference about the VG content as far as wicking but I have noticed that the thicker the liquid (higher VG content), the less the liquid will transfer through the wicks.
Ann, as far as the pg content helping with with the production of fatter clouds I will have to disagree. If you watch the YouTube videos of the "famous" cloud chasers (mcvapes, rip trippers and so on) most of the time they are using a primarily vg-based liquid. Now, with that said, it is possible to vape straight pg (I have used it at times to help clean wicks) I just would be careful as I wouldn't want to be inhaling it all day.
The first question about pg/VG content I would ask is if you need the throat hit (something like a good burn from drinking alcohol) to enjoy your vape. If you need that, you will want to have a higher pg content then you have now. I would suggest that you check into some sample size bottles in different blends (ie: 80/20, 60/40, 50/50 all in most VG/pg notation respectively) and see what works best for you.
With a pro tank the wicks are very small and most of them cannot even be seen unless you take the head unit apart (see Grimm Green's rebuilding a pro tank coil for more detail on its construction) and I would not recommend rebuilding one to a beginner, but it may help explain how things work "under the hood" as it were.
Speaking from personal experience, the cold hits (sucking on the mouthpiece without firing the battery and used, among other things, to help try and prime the wicks in the coil head with juice) do tend to have a strange taste, but it isn't something I could call burnt as the coil has never been heated at this point.
Something else you might do is to use a "primer puff" before you actually take a puff of the pro tank; meaning, fire the battery and take a very small puff and blow it right back out (while letting go of the fire button) and then going back to hit the device like you normally would can help with getting more juice to the coils through the wicks.
Since I use a kamry daily, let me dive into specifics that might help you just a bit, I'll try to keep it simple.
With an 18650 battery on the mod you are firing the coil with 3.7 volts from the get go and there is no variation in power output (unless you add a kick, its what the kick does) except for the drop in power as the battery runs down. Now, that 3.7 volts should perform the same as any other device that is firing at that power setting (some seem to "hit harder than others but that's outside of the discussion here) and with a pro tank at 2.2 ohms (single coil) you shouldn't be getting a burnt taste or dry hits. However, the more I think about it, the more I think I know what is going on.
A coil (any style, in tank or rba/RDA, cartos too) takes a short amount of time to heat up, meaning that unless you are prepared for it (primer puff, short pulses while it heats up) you are most likely pushing the fire button and holding it until you get the hit you need regardless of the time needed. That is one of the pros and cons of mech mod (no electrical restrictions) but also something that you need to keep in mind when using a tank on a mech.
The coil will fire until the wire snaps as long as you are holding the fire button, which can cause the coil to run dry if it is not wicking properly (no matter the reason).
What I would suggest is to do a few primer puffs until you are getting decent vapor production, which means the coil is sufficiently hot and you have a decent amount of liquid on the coil to keep it from burning hit wick. Once you get decent production then you can take a puff like normal, remembering that a puff for longer than 10 seconds increases the chance of running the wick/coil dry and burning the wick (one of the reasons many devices have an "overtime vaping protection" which just shuts off the battery after 10 seconds to help you not burn the coil or damage the battery) and keep in mind that the 10 seconds is a pretty big hit, even for the cloud chasers.
Sorry the reply is so long and I hope it helps with the issue.
etherealink broke down what I said about wick much more and did very nicely, the only thing I would mention is on a fresh fully charged battery the output would be 4.2 volts not 3.7 volts. Most mech users will swap the battery at about 3.6-3.7 volts as that is where the power curve usually hits and they will notice reduced performance. 3.7 is just the battery rating which is usually the middle ground of its capabilities, all 18350/490/500/650's that we use in our application with push about 4.2 volts when fully charged and healthy.
Im using the k-100 with my nautilus with fuzionvapor, which is 70pg/30 distilled/carbonated water and i can chain vape with the biggest air setting and blow some clouds with flavor, working magnificent with me on 18500 batts
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Ok weird, any reason why my voltage drop vertical stayed a solid 3.7 and when held horizontally it fluctuated between 3.2 and 3.7?? Just noticed lol
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For me the battery charges to 4.2 volts but because of the voltage drop between the battery and circuit in the mod itself I measure about 3.7 volts at the atomizer, not terrible but still not perfect. In a perfect circuit all of the electrical potential would end up hitting the coils and with the fact that *any* material the electricity has to travel through will inevitably resist the transfer of electricity to a small extent (see resistance and/or impedance) which is translates into heat, light or some other form of energy.
That's the reason that to make an ecig work you have to use a wire (such as kanthal or nichrome) that resists in such a way to heat up, similar to what a light bulb does but not requiring the absence of oxygen that the tungsten filament of a light bulb require.
There are better explanations of voltage drop at the circuit, top connection and atomizer itself on YouTube than what I explained here.
I understand voltage drop and have tested all my mech's for in total some are as bad as .5 like you experience some have been as little as .13 which is what I experience on my k100 with sanded down contacts. Can't wait to get my nemmy in from Fasttech as it's suppose to be one of the hardest hitting devices out.
sadly I just always assume most have no understand of the usage of electronics in regards to ohm law, circuits, and power output. so for good measure just always say 4.2 at fresh battery, so they do have room for error.
sadly I just always assume most have no understand of the usage of electronics in regards to ohm law, circuits, and power output. so for good measure just always say 4.2 at fresh battery, so they do have room for error.
Safe bet in most cases, I tend to go with the 3.7 for that same reason. Part of my voltage drop could be that I never sanded down my contacts on my K101 so I will have to give that a try.
For tonight though, I'm ditching my dual nano-coil dragon and building a simple dual micro coil setup in my igo-w in prep for my igo-w3 and Caravella mod by hCigar that's coming in the mail tomorrow.
Good luck with the Nemmy, let me know how she works!
Etherealink.. Thanks for the info.. So Im pretty sure found my problem with the burnt hit.. I was vaping for a good 5-10 min then started tasting that "burnt" dry hit.. took my unit apart too check the coils out.. (which I just replaced yesterday) and one of the wicks were dry...
So wth is up with my coil unit.. Again i am using the Kanger Protank mini 2.. Can I those rubbery things off the unit?
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