Need help with P10440

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oplholik

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I bought this for the wife for Xmas. She has had trouble getting it to fire consistantly. Using the little finger, it seems you have to get it just right and apply lots of pressure. I tried it this morning, and yeah, I had trouble also. I tried holding the pv with one hand, and firing it with a finger on the other hand. It still takes a good amount of pressure, and still won't fire every time. Anyone have any advise? Maybe something needs to be adjusted? Thanks.
 

Nicblazer

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I bought this for the wife for Xmas. She has had trouble getting it to fire consistantly. Using the little finger, it seems you have to get it just right and apply lots of pressure. I tried it this morning, and yeah, I had trouble also. I tried holding the pv with one hand, and firing it with a finger on the other hand. It still takes a good amount of pressure, and still won't fire every time. Anyone have any advise? Maybe something needs to be adjusted? Thanks.

Op, it sounds like your negative contact screw is a little loose. Those are symptoms of either a bad contact with the atomizer or again, your negative contact is looser than usual. Try tightening that bottom screw more. See if it works.


Take care,


Nic
 

oplholik

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Found the problem. Thanks for mentioning the bottom cap. The problem was a burr on the threads sticking up and not allowing the end of the button to make good contact. Sanded off the burr and smoothed the threads a little, and now works every time. I'm used to 1.7Ω on my 3.7's, and I find this hits good on a 2Ω carto.
 
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forcedfuel50

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Does anyone notice the battery rattle in the Precise 10440's? Mine seems to rattle a tad with ICR 10440's.

What battery type are you running in it? The stock Oring in there is .070 thick. You can try switching to a .100 thick oring. Go to Lowes or Home Depot, Plumbing section, brand name Danco, #78 Oring, ten for 2 bucks.
 

Nach

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What battery type are you running in it? The stock Oring in there is .070 thick. You can try switching to a .100 thick oring. Go to Lowes or Home Depot, Plumbing section, brand name Danco, #78 Oring, ten for 2 bucks.

Thanks, noted and I'll stop by there soon! Right now it's using a small magnet with an o-ring around it to allow the switch to make contact. That's in addition to the o-ring that's in there now. It will NOT fire without this magnet. Will replacing the o-ring correct this?

I did however buy this from another ECF member and am not sure of the history of this particular P10. It's the all SS model, including a SS switch with the P engraved in it.

I'm using the blue ICR 10440 batteries. But these seem to be a tad smaller in diameter than the P10 tube, hence the rattle.
 
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forcedfuel50

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Thanks, noted and I'll stop by there soon! Right now it's using a small magnet with an o-ring around it to allow the switch to make contact. That's in addition to the o-ring that's in there now. It will NOT fire without this magnet. Will replacing the o-ring correct this?

I did however buy this from another ECF member and am not sure of the history of this particular P10. It's the all SS model, including a SS switch with the P engraved in it.

I'm using the blue ICR 10440 batteries. But these seem to be a tad smaller in diameter than the P10 tube, hence the rattle.

Ah, ok, that makes sense now, sounds like you have one of the old style ones that were designed for the longer Protected Trust/Ultrafire 10440 battery. Later models were designed for the IMR and ICR 10440 battery which is shorter battery and thus the switch and body were sized differently then yours.
 

forcedfuel50

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I just had a thought. With that shiny new machine of yours, you could make replacement switches with longer posts! I wonder if others would buy into that for their older units?

I actually used to make a conversion switch, but no longer do, but i'll keep my eyes open, every now and then when cleaning or moving stuff i come across one!
 
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