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Str8V8ping

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Is it normal for my buzz pro to be taking my batts down to 2.5v or is it supposed to cut off at some point? Every time i measure my batts after the vapor starts dropping off there down to exactly 2.5v . Im using new AW IMR 16340's and it does the same with all 3 pairs i have.. Also a occasional issue where it wont fire but if i remove the batts and put them back in or tap on the center post it starts firing again.When it doesnt fire it stays red or sometimes goes back and forth between red and red/blue. I have tried a few different cartos and get it eventually with all of them.I have tried moving the center pin of the cartos out but no change and all the cartos work perfect on other mods.
 
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Michaelb83

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Hey str8 ok if your using Lr gear it maxes out around 4.4ish I believe. So if it's cranked up it will flash the red and blue light. Not to far past the yellow mark on Lr gear and it will do that.
As for the batteries I believe they are supposed to cut off around 3.2 volts seems that way on my ipro but I just got my buzz today and didn't check them when I replaced. Sometimes if you don't get any fire it's the screw that needs adjusting it also could be the bottom screw under the cap.
I know your a modder so im sure I'm just preaching the standard stuff to you but never hurts. The pro's will be along shortly and help more!

Btw I love looking at your mods they amaze me!


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Str8V8ping

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Thanks buddy. Yea iv though of some of the more normal things like the bottom cap which looks fine. I am using a SR boge at around the red dot so i dont think im going over the amp limit. Im getting 4.5v loaded with a meter on it and unloaded voltage set at 5-5.1ish v so that should be well under the amp limit. .With the battery thing every time i use it they come off at 2.5v .I get like 2 reduced vapor pulls and thats when i pull the batts out at 2.5v. When the bats go in the mod off charge they are at 4.19 so i cant see there being anything wrong with 3 new sets off batts. It doesnt seem to be cutting off like you mentioned at 3.2v .I was going to take the top cap off to see if anything was loose but its really tight and wont screw off.
 

Str8V8ping

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Str8, I wonder if your intermittent issue might be a loose hot wire under the top cap. Did you unscrew the cap and make sure the screw on the underside that holds the ring terminal is connected well?

I'll have to get some better advice on the batts, the BP taking them down to 2.5 doesn't sound right to me.

I havent taken the top cap off because like i said above its really tight. Yea 2.5v didnt sound look normal to me either since that not to safe or good for the batts. Iv been metering the batts like every two hours right now so i dont drain them down that far.

Will the top cap not unscrew without first loosing the center pin/screw?
 

Str8V8ping

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Iv tried just about everything to unscrew the top cap like how the bottom cap comes off and its not budging with all my force. I dont want to use like pliers or anything and risk scratching it. I just noticed something though . If i try to unscrew the top cap it wont budge but when i go to take a vape after trying the red light will go out when i hit the fire button and wont fire . If i pull the batts and put them back in it will fire again . I tried this three times in a row and got the same thing. Just trying to turn the top cap even though it wont budge causes a issue so im thinking it is something loose in there.I cant see why that would cause a low battery cutoff not to work though.
 

Bovinia

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Since the AW IMRs aren't protected, they don't have a pcb on them to keep them from overdraining. Also they are probably a mm or 2 shorter than protected batts and that may be why it's acting like it isn't making a solid connection. Might need spacers. Odd that you can't get the cap to budge.

What other devices have you used these batts in? And do they over discharge in them?
 

BuzzKill

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Try cleaning the center contact inside the tube ( brass piece ) use a eraser , junk can get on it and cause a bad connection.

Try tapping the top cap on a fairly hard surface , this can help loosen them up , usually they get juice in the threads and this causes them to jam.

IMR batts are NOT protected so they drain until they are dead, there is NO PCB to cut them OFF.
 

Str8V8ping

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Since the AW IMRs aren't protected, they don't have a pcb on them to keep them from overdraining. Also they are probably a mm or 2 shorter than protected batts and that may be why it's acting like it isn't making a solid connection. Might need spacers. Odd that you can't get the cap to budge.

What other devices have you used these batts in? And do they over discharge in them?

That shouldnt be why though since even the protected batts arnt supposed to be drained til the protection kicks in. I have tried spacers on the batt to make it even a tighter fit and still happens. I do use these in one of my vv mods and they work perfect so i can confirm batts are not a issue .
 

Str8V8ping

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Try cleaning the center contact inside the tube ( brass piece ) use a eraser , junk can get on it and cause a bad connection.

Try tapping the top cap on a fairly hard surface , this can help loosen them up , usually they get juice in the threads and this causes them to jam.

IMR batts are NOT protected so they drain until they are dead, there is NO PCB to cut them OFF.

But then why do others report that theirs cuts off at 3.2v . A protected battery usually goes into protection at 2.7v and even taking them down to 2.7 is not good for the batts. I always thought the BP had a low voltage cutoff to prevent the batts from hitting the protection circuit or overdraining. I guess not?. I did clean the positive pin inside the tube with a qtip but it was already perfectly clean . Ill try tapping the top on something but im afraid its going to stop working completely and wont be able to open it.
 
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Bovinia

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Did you buy this BP new from Notcigs, or off the classies? If it came from the classies, someone may have put a dab of Loctite on the top cap (not recommended btw). You can try wrapping a cloth around it so pliers won't scuff it up.

The Notcigs PVs have over current prot, over heat pro, and reverse batt protection. It's not advised to run your batts until the unit is dead...altho I would imagine most people do. I've got ultrafire RCR 16340s in mine right now, and when they run down I'll meter them and post back.
 

BuzzKill

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But then why do others report that theirs cuts off at 3.2v . A protected battery usually goes into protection at 2.7v and even taking them down to 2.7 is not good for the batts. I always thought the BP had a low voltage cutoff to prevent the batts from hitting the protection circuit or overdraining. I guess not?. I did clean the positive pin inside the tube with a qtip but it was already perfectly clean . Ill try tapping the top on something but im afraid its going to stop working completely and wont be able to open it.

I am not sure where you are getting you battery info but the standard cutoff in the industry and from the MFG is 2.7 volts for a protected batt. , IMR are not protected so they can be drained to 0 volts actually !

The BP and IP do NOT have low voltage cutoff built in ( not in the specs ) when using UNprotected batts.

What happens in other devices I cannot comment on as I have not tested them.
 

Str8V8ping

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Ugh someone has one of str8's vv bottom feeders on the classy's seriously the only mod to take a notcigs product outta my hand! Hopefully your buzz will act right str8 I know its frustrating!

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Haha , I traded that str8tek for the buzz pro and a lot of AW batts .

I am not sure where you are getting you battery info but the standard cutoff in the industry and from the MFG is 2.7 volts for a protected batt. , IMR are not protected so they can be drained to 0 volts actually !

The BP and IP do NOT have low voltage cutoff built in ( not in the specs ) when using UNprotected batts.

What happens in other devices I cannot comment on as I have not tested them.

Thats what i said, that protected batts will drain down to 2.7v. IMR's will drain down to 2.5v before they stop working.

Just tested mine 2.7 on one battery and 3.4 on the other. Wonder if I got a battery going bad or if that gap is normal. I'm pretty sure the lower volt batt was the top one.

Seems to be about what im getting too . 2.5v on one battery and 3.2 on the other. I guess its normal .I just figured it had built in battery protection and cutoff but i must have got it mixed up with overtemp protection or something . Isnt non protected batterys recommended though like the powerizers. Im thinking it would be worse fully draining a unprotected battery over a IMR

So now its just the issue of it not firing occasionally which im guessing is something loose in there. Still cant get this cap off.
 
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Michaelb83

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Hey str8 what about using a big flat head screwdriver where the carto screws onto there are slots in the very top I the connection that might help turn the top cap loose. I ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336516910.074037.jpg
 
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