Great minds think alike . Already triied it but still didnt work . my last attempt is to tape it up and put it in the vice . I just dont wanna ruin the finish since its in mint condition.
Need help
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Great minds think alike . Already triied it but still didnt work . my last attempt is to tape it up and put it in the vice . I just dont wanna ruin the finish since its in mint condition.
My ultrafires just accommodated me in running down, top batt reads 3.4 and bottom batt 3.5. Had to let one rest a minute or so before it would read, guess the pcb on it triggered.
I did some looking back and saw that you bought that handsome blue BP off the classies Str8. So out of curiosity I followed a few post back from the fella you bought it from. Seems he was asking questions about how low to let those batts dip too.
If that top cap is on that stubborn, he had to have put some Loctite or something on it
I did some looking back and saw that you bought that handsome blue BP off the classies Str8. So out of curiosity I followed a few post back from the fella you bought it from. Seems he was asking questions about how low to let those batts dip too.
If that top cap is on that stubborn, he had to have put some Loctite or something on it
Yup its the pretty blue one. I finally got that damn top cap off after cutting my hands up and trying everything . I put it in the vise with some tape so i dont scratch it. It was even hard to unscrew it in the vise. It threaded off super hard all the way down to the last thread . It looks like its either dirt caked in the threads or epoxy. I just gotta scrape off whatever is in the threads and it should thread freely . I did notice the wire screw was really loose .Is it supposed to be loose or tight . I didnt need a screwdriver to unscrew the wire, i just used my fingers and twisted the screw right out. Im thinking that may be the non firing issue if its supposed to be tight in which i think it should be.I wonder if a lock washer would fit so it doesnt come loose again. I also took the orings and center screw out of the top cap to make sure everything goes back together like new. I did try two trustfire batts last night and it takes the batteries down to tripping the protection circuit on them so i gotta make sure to check the voltage every few hours and not vape it til the battery goes dead since battery protection circuits are known to fail on occasion.
I bet you're right on the wire screw. It should be snug but not super tight. You want that ring terminal to be able to spin without binding up the wire when you screw the top cap on. Normally you just loosen the outer top cap screw when you take the cap on and off, that should allow the ring terminal to turn...then snug the outer screw down when you are put back together.
Does the PCB look clean in there? Hard to say if the threads are crudded up with juice or glue.
As for the batts, I usually just change them once a day, and put them on the charger when I'm going to be around to not leave them charging alone.
Does the PCB look clean in there? Hard to say if the threads are crudded up with juice or glue.
As for the batts, I usually just change them once a day, and put them on the charger when I'm going to be around to not leave them charging alone.
I test a couple minutes after changing batteries, the lower voltage battery in a pair shows about 2.75 -2.8, which is consistent with the data sheet for allowed min voltage (2.75 is the number they use for discharge tests).
I rotate 3 pairs of batteries, have done so since last summer, no visible performance drop. The bp cutout, which occurs when it cannot drive the desired output, appears to work well with the unprotected batteries I use.
I rotate 3 pairs of batteries, have done so since last summer, no visible performance drop. The bp cutout, which occurs when it cannot drive the desired output, appears to work well with the unprotected batteries I use.
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Its never good to take a li-ion cell down to full discharge or trip the protection circuit .Even less wanted full discharging in series
From a battery site.
1. Avoid frequent full discharges because this puts additional strain on the battery. Several partial discharges with frequent recharges are better for lithium-ion than one deep one. Recharging a partially charged lithium-ion does not cause harm because there is no memory. (In this respect, lithium-ion differs from nickel-based batteries.)
On a side note i put everything back together and it seems to be firing all the time so far. I havent used it much yet though . Also got all the adhesive out of the threads and it threads on freely now.
From a battery site.
1. Avoid frequent full discharges because this puts additional strain on the battery. Several partial discharges with frequent recharges are better for lithium-ion than one deep one. Recharging a partially charged lithium-ion does not cause harm because there is no memory. (In this respect, lithium-ion differs from nickel-based batteries.)
On a side note i put everything back together and it seems to be firing all the time so far. I havent used it much yet though . Also got all the adhesive out of the threads and it threads on freely now.
I'll charge at end of day no matter what, this was just an observation that it doesn't seem to cause difficulties, with the batteries notcigs sells.
This is the actual spec for the powerizers: https://www.batteryspace.com/prod-specs/1389_1_mod.pdf There is certainly nothing wrong with choosing to be more conservative, but I use the spec, which says those batteries are designed to be discharged to 2.75V without issue. I do not know what the AW IMR spec is, since I don't use them.
Glad you were able to get that top cap off I switched to a native 801 cap, since fusions and tank play so well on it.
This is the actual spec for the powerizers: https://www.batteryspace.com/prod-specs/1389_1_mod.pdf There is certainly nothing wrong with choosing to be more conservative, but I use the spec, which says those batteries are designed to be discharged to 2.75V without issue. I do not know what the AW IMR spec is, since I don't use them.
Glad you were able to get that top cap off
I switched to a native 801 cap, since fusions and tank play so well on it.
That JUNK is JUICE that hardened up FYI ! we see it ALL THE TIME !
Go to Battery University for the Best battery Info on the web,
Go to Battery University for the Best battery Info on the web,
One battery always gets hit harder then the other , you will notice that always 1 will be charged first and the other one will take around 1 hr long probably.
Its normal with stack.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Its normal with stack.
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I dont think it was juice since the internals were all dry and parts of the stuff cracked and peeled off like a adhesive.
Spoke to soon. I just had another no fire. The red light just went out when i hit the fire button and back on again when i let it go. I gave the top of the tube a knock and it started working again . 1 no fire per 2ish ml i can live with but what do you think the cause is? It cant be the carto since i know its good and was making a perfect connection and i just made sure the center pin wire was good. Batteries were around 3.8v when it happened so not that. Maybe a input wire slightly loose. I also made sure the chassis ground was good when i fixed the center pin wire. Rear cap is fine,threads are clean as well as clean where it makes contact with the tube. I dont mind it since its a small issue but it would be good to know why its doing it.
Could be a loose wire Str8. I took one apart for someone last night and discovered that under the heat shrink where the wire goes into the ring terminal was barely making contact. That's why I was getting intermittent readings on my meter.
If the blue light goes on much of the time when you press fire, but not all the time, I almost wonder if this one might be PCB? Red staying on is one set of possibles (including PV-level short protection, failed switch,...). Just blue but no vapor generally means an open circuit. Both lights, typically dim, means low voltage. Red going out during the press, but no blue, sounds like an open-circuit occurring before the branch to the blue light?
Alternately, something marginal on the positive contact, occasionally pushed off the battery center post during the switch press? Board slightly misaligned?
(This is just blue sky thinking, not necessarily any connection to reality)
Alternately, something marginal on the positive contact, occasionally pushed off the battery center post during the switch press? Board slightly misaligned?
(This is just blue sky thinking, not necessarily any connection to reality)
That was my guess too since the blue led would be coming off the output of the reg and red led straight from battery power so if the red lights going out it would have to lie from the battery to the input of the reg. Im guessing there would also be a mosfet or inhibit pin in the mix as well. I guess for now ill leave it be and persue it further if it ever gets worse.
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