need some pointers about VV on a provari

[ltk31]

finally got my button top batteries after staring at this provari for 6 days not being able to vape it!

i have a 2.5 ohm coil head in it, and it was at 4 volts when i turned it on. so what does raising and lowering the voltage do in terms of flavor? i am vaping suicide bunny - mother's milk at the moment, on 4.5 volts.

what are your preferences?

 

[ruet]

It depends on what you are using for a topper. You are at 8.1 watts right now. If you are using a bottom coil clearomizer, like a Kanger Pro Tank, you will probably get a burnt taste (if you don't already) if you go any higher. If you are using something like a Kayfun or rebuildable atomizer you can keep pushing it for better flavor and increased vapor production. With a 2.5 Ohm coil, in the right topper, you can push the PV all the way to it's 6V max. (14.4 watts)

 

[ltk31]

im using a protank 2, and 4.5 volts seems to be just fine, you're right, at 6 volts i had a horrible burnt taste

ive been using this protank 2 for 5 minutes and i cannot get it to stop flooding, or it had no airflow at all, like theres something inside of it and i cant suck anything out

 

[ruet]

Factory built Kanger heads are a hit and miss affair. Even home-built they can be a pain. There are more in-depth pointer treads here for Kanger heads but I would remove one, if not all, of the flavor wicks. I would also flip the translucent rubber grommet that seals the tank and chimeny. Finally I would unscrew the head and gently pull the positive pin out a touch. Once you have done those things, I would back the PV down to 4 volts. Following these steps might help with airflow, flooding and flavor.

 

[ltk31]

so somehow i just wasted about 3 ML of e juice thanks to these junk tanks.. it worked for 4 minutes. perfectly. its leaking from every gap on the thing, i even took it all apart and cleaned every piece. i dont know what a flavor wick is, or the translucent rubber grommet

 

[ruet]

so somehow i just wasted about 3 ML of e juice thanks to these junk tanks.. it worked for 4 minutes. perfectly. its leaking from every gap on the thing, i even took it all apart and cleaned every piece. i dont know what a flavor wick is, or the translucent rubber grommet

Now that I think about it, I don't remember if the PTII has the translucent grommet. On flavor wicks... When you open a new head there is a little chimney, on top of it, that slides up into the tank. That chimney is removable. Under it is the wick, coil and two or more flavor wicks. The flavor wicks aren't attached to anything and rest on top of the regular wick and coil. Get rid of them. They are called flavor wicks but I think they were originally put there to insulate the coil from the chimney and/or guard against flooding. As far as your leaking goes. The PTII has a wonky fit. Disassemble and reassemble the tank section. Before you use it, roll it across a flat, smooth, surface. Like a table top. If it wobbles, disassemble and reassemble again. Do this until you eliminate as much of the wobble as you can and then try it out.

 

[ckquatt]

so somehow i just wasted about 3 ML of e juice thanks to these junk tanks.. it worked for 4 minutes. perfectly. its leaking from every gap on the thing, i even took it all apart and cleaned every piece. i dont know what a flavor wick is, or the translucent rubber grommet

They're not junk tanks! They just have the air flow holes in the wrong place for the ProVari threads. I dont know why Provape even put these in with the kit.

You're probably getting leaking because you're creating one hell of a vacuum with the plugged up air flow when you're trying to take a hit.

They're not junk, try a different topper.

Sent from my Atari 2600 using Tapatalk.

 

[ltk31]

i found a decent video of how to clean it out properly, if this happens again i will try removing the flavor wicks as you mentioned

do you think i should buy the adjustable airflow that is made for the kanger to turn it into an aerotank? i think

or should i fork over a little bit more for an aspire nautilus? im already in this crapshoot about $400 and i cant enjoy cigarettes much anymore (thankfully) so i'm ready to become addicted to this expensive hobby (as if i didnt have enough of those already)

 

[ltk31]

They're not junk tanks! They just have the air flow holes in the wrong place for the ProVari threads. I dont know why Provape even put these in with the kit.

You're probably getting leaking because you're creating one hell of a vacuum with the plugged up air flow when you're trying to take a hit.

They're not junk, try a different topper.

Sent from my Atari 2600 using Tapatalk.

yea i was trying to suck and forced the liquid through i suppose. i loosened it a little and cleaned everything, seems to be working decently at the moment.

what do you mean by try a different topper?

 

[vojvodic0421]

I had the same issue with PT2 on Provari, if you screw it all the way in it blocks airflow, so the only way I got around it was by not screwing coil to the base, but that opens another can of warms though as you get leaking on 510 connection on your provari. There is fairly inexpensive solution though. Buy aero tank base and voila problems go away. Anyways running anything over 4.3-4.6 volts on any PT build will give you burnt taste IMO hopefully this helps

 

[ltk31]

I had the same issue with PT2 on Provari, if you screw it all the way in it blocks airflow, so the only way I got around it was by not screwing coil to the base, but that opens another can of warms though as you get leaking on 510 connection on your provari. There is fairly inexpensive solution though. Buy aero tank base and voila problems go away. Anyways running anything over 4.3-4.6 volts on any PT build will give you burnt taste IMO hopefully this helps

so if i buy an aerotank base i can tighten everything down properly?

and i have 2 protank 2's, do i need 2 aerotank bases?


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[vojvodic0421]

You don't need 2 bases but you will need to change it to other tank everytime you want to change tanks

 

[distortoblotto]

May I suggest installing a Pro Tank Aero base on Your PT2.At right around 5 bucks, this trick vastly improves the performance of the unit.

May I also suggest installing a 1.8 ohm coils and start off @3.7 volts and working your way up from there.

I run mine between 3.7 - 4.6 volts to find the sweet spot depending on the juice.

And last but not least, Take the time to learn the proper way to service the PT11.

These are great tanks for the money when you take that time and get to know them well.

I love the way they work for me on my Provari units. Just load and go!

Good luck!

 

[distortoblotto]

DOH! I really should of read the entire thread before posting.

Any who, I only reinforced what had already been said..........Vape on!

 

[ckquatt]

A topper is just another name for what you put your liquid in. Instead of saying cartotank, clearomizer, cartomizer, its just easier to say topper. Just me being lazy!

The air flow controller is a great idea! After I was having that very same problem I bought a couple of the bases and now my Protanks work like a champ! Although I've upgraded to IBTankeds since then, so my PT'S don't see that much use any more.

Grab one or two of the AFCs. They're super cheap and will fix ALL the problems you're having. I wish Provape would include an Aerotank instead of the Protank in the kit, if they want to use Kanger stuff. It would stop a lot of the heartache.

Sent from my Atari 2600 using Tapatalk.

 

[ltk31]

thanks guys, i believe i will buy 2 bases and some 1.5 ohm coil heads. im having trouble finding a decent voltage with the 2.5's.

any websites have both of these for a good price??

and i didnt order the starter kit, because i wanted the hybrid red/black provari, i just bought protanks based on price and reviews. i will try a nautilus and an IBTanked eventually.

thanks for all the pointers!

p.s. will my 1.5 ohm cools from my evod starter kit work in the protanks?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[edyle]

im using a protank 2, and 4.5 volts seems to be just fine, you're right, at 6 volts i had a horrible burnt taste

ive been using this protank 2 for 5 minutes and i cannot get it to stop flooding, or it had no airflow at all, like theres something inside of it and i cant suck anything out

The airholes are in the 510 cigalike sized thread at the bottom of the tank and those airholes get covered over by the 510 threadwell of the mod; so airflow on those 510 threaded tanks is just sort of by-the-way-we-need-some-airholes....somewhere.

That's why on my protanks, I have them on miniprotank bases, which uses the eGo thread.

As for leaking, once the atomizer head starts leaking it won't stop; I change out my heads after about 3 to 5 days I would say and I rewick with cotton; loose cotton, not compressed cotton; if you twist and compress the cotton it doesn't wick as well and like the silica rope wick, it may leak also, but the loose cotton doesn't seem to leak.

The gurgling comes from leak flooding the atomizer coil;

turn it upside down and listen to the coil with the button pressed, and as the liquid drains away from the coil, you will hear the change in sound.

 

[edyle]

They're not junk tanks! They just have the air flow holes in the wrong place for the ProVari threads. I dont know why Provape even put these in with the kit.

You're probably getting leaking because you're creating one hell of a vacuum with the plugged up air flow when you're trying to take a hit.

They're not junk, try a different topper.

Sent from my Atari 2600 using Tapatalk.

That's true I missed that part; one thing leads to another; the airflow problem ends up causing the flooding.

 

[edyle]

i found a decent video of how to clean it out properly, if this happens again i will try removing the flavor wicks as you mentioned

do you think i should buy the adjustable airflow that is made for the kanger to turn it into an aerotank? i think

or should i fork over a little bit more for an aspire nautilus? im already in this crapshoot about $400 and i cant enjoy cigarettes much anymore (thankfully) so i'm ready to become addicted to this expensive hobby (as if i didnt have enough of those already)

I think so yes; its not expensive; get rid of one of the problems with the 510 thread interface.

 

[edyle]

thanks guys, i believe i will buy 2 bases and some 1.5 ohm coil heads. im having trouble finding a decent voltage with the 2.5's.

any websites have both of these for a good price??

and i didnt order the starter kit, because i wanted the hybrid red/black provari, i just bought protanks based on price and reviews. i will try a nautilus and an IBTanked eventually.

thanks for all the pointers!

p.s. will my 1.5 ohm cools from my evod starter kit work in the protanks?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes they will; they will just run at lower voltage.

Rule of thumb: 5 watts on stock commercial coil with silica wicks.