Nemesis Switch Help

[zero7starz]

I need help with my nemesis. I took it to work today, and the switch fell apart. It fell apart into three pieces that I retrieved: The switch, spring, and pin. I can't seem to screw it all back together and have it work again. The switch continues to explode apart.

When I ordered it I also orders the magnets for the switch.

Could anyone point me to any good videos about the switch assembly and how to install the magnets? From the little I've read, it sounds like my main issues are that it's not screwing in all the way, and the spring is providing enough torque to finish unscrewing my screw. I think the magnets and a bit of lock tight might fix that.

I can't do anything till I get off at 7 to really try to fix it. I really hope that it will be an easy fix.

Any help greatly appreciated, I couldn't find any videos just by searching YouTube for this.

 

[Vaslovik]

Bummer in the summer! That happened to me too, and the reason is that the bottom pin tends to unscrew itself over time. I have no idea how or why it does that, but it's the only thing about this mech I don't like. I'm not sure what to do about it, I just tighten the pin back down once in a while, watching to see if the button throw is getting longer.

I put the magnets in too, and that didn't stop it, I'm working on a fix for mine.

 

[anumber1]

Get a star lock washer from a hardware store. Snug the screw up when you put it back together (gently) with a pair of pliers.

I have a buddy with a nenesis clone that had the same problem. That $.07 washer fixed it for good.

 

[zero7starz]

Ok!

After I got home and had more time to examine some things, I figured out what my problem really was.
When the switch exploded in my car not all of it came out. I had to get my pliers out to get the metal and plastic piece out. Once I had all the pieces out it was easier to fiddle it back together.

Is there any real reason that the switch need be disassembled? After this fiasco I'm tempted to lock tight it all together.

Maybe I'll try the washer.

 

[anumber1]

Ok!

After I got home and had more time to examine some things, I figured out what my problem really was.
When the switch exploded in my car not all of it came out. I had to get my pliers out to get the metal and plastic piece out. Once I had all the pieces out it was easier to fiddle it back together.

Is there any real reason that the switch need be disassembled? After this fiasco I'm tempted to lock tight it all together.

Maybe I'll try the washer.

Many people find that with a little massaging, the usually crunchy Nemesis switch can be made to work smoothly.

Once the bugs are worked out, it really only has to be dissasembled to clean every once in a while.

I wouldnt glue it together with loctite or anything as the pieces do need to mate as cleanly as possible to promote maximum conductivity.

many make the mistake of trying to adjust for battery rattle by loosening the contact button. This doesn't work and results in constantly having to fiddle with the button.

 

[edyle]

I need help with my nemesis. I took it to work today, and the switch fell apart. It fell apart into three pieces that I retrieved: The switch, spring, and pin. I can't seem to screw it all back together and have it work again. The switch continues to explode apart.

When I ordered it I also orders the magnets for the switch.

Could anyone point me to any good videos about the switch assembly and how to install the magnets? From the little I've read, it sounds like my main issues are that it's not screwing in all the way, and the spring is providing enough torque to finish unscrewing my screw. I think the magnets and a bit of lock tight might fix that.

I can't do anything till I get off at 7 to really try to fix it. I really hope that it will be an easy fix.

Any help greatly appreciated, I couldn't find any videos just by searching YouTube for this.

The great advantage to having a bottom switch like the nemesis types , is you can just swap out that whole bottom switch piece.

 

[zero7starz]

The great advantage to having a bottom switch like the nemesis types , is you can just swap out that whole bottom switch piece.

To what?


By far the biggest issue with the switch I see is that silly little pin that goes in that tiny slot, that basically locks the whole thing together. Really, that's the best idea we could come up with.

 

[crxess]

No need to loctite. Just tighten the firing pin.

Seems more people would notice the ever increasing throw BEFORE things went TWANGGggggg

[QUOTEmany make the mistake of trying to adjust for battery rattle by loosening the contact button. This doesn't work for some people and results in constantly having to fiddle with the button. ][/QUOTE]

Fixed that for you.
I have 9 Nemesis, I keep the Beauty ring in them unless running Hybrid and I use the lower pin in adjustment. Rarely is it much, 1/2 to 1 turn. If your smart enough to use something that allows thread traction (Blue loctite/wax.etc. cough cough) the pin will stay put.

 

[bsoplinger]

Replacing the rice pin with one that's larger, just small enough to allow the switch to function helps with the leaning or twiddly-ness of clone switches. They are machined sloppily with too much movement of the bottom piece within the threaded brass part. The thicker rice pin reduces the amount of movement allowed.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[Vaslovik]

Well I got it to stop unscrewing itself, I cut off the tip of a foam earplug and stuffed that down inside the button under the firing pin screw, then screwed the pin in, and it stays put now. Not the most elegant fix, but it's working

 

[zero7starz]

Get a star lock washer from a hardware store. Snug the screw up when you put it back together (gently) with a pair of pliers.

I have a buddy with a nenesis clone that had the same problem. That $.07 washer fixed it for good.

Alright, where does the star lock washer go?

Replacing the rice pin with one that's larger, just small enough to allow the switch to function helps with the leaning or twiddly-ness of clone switches. They are machined sloppily with too much movement of the bottom piece within the threaded brass part. The thicker rice pin reduces the amount of movement allowed.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

What part is the "rice pin"? I'm guessing it's the teeny tiny pin that sits between everything?

 

[bsoplinger]

Alright, where does the star lock washer go?
What part is the "rice pin"? I'm guessing it's the teeny tiny pin that sits between everything?

Yes, that's because it's small, like a grain of rice.

The washer goes on the screw. It should raise it up until it's just below the top of the delrin (plastic) piece. If it raises it higher than the delrin the mod will auto fire. Personally, on the clones I have, only a piece of thin chipboard (called cardboard by most people) is thin enough to reduce the throw without it auto firing.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[ScottChensoda]

I can only assume there must be yet another variation/clone out there as I have two Nemeses and once I switched the springs for the right magnets I have had no issues at all. Just ensure you get N45 magnets not N35, as the 45's are stronger and enable the device to stand without self-firing.

Here's a video of how to change from springs to magnets from Todd that has been on You Tube since 21 Sept 2013.

 

[zero7starz]

I can only assume there must be yet another variation/clone out there as I have two Nemeses and once I switched the springs for the right magnets I have had no issues at all. Just ensure you get N45 magnets not N35, as the 45's are stronger and enable the device to stand without self-firing.

Here's a video of how to change from springs to magnets from Todd that has been on You Tube since 21 Sept 2013.

Thanks dude I've been looking everywhere for that video.

Gonna see if I can get accurate dimensions of the rice pin I have and see if I can find a few slightly larger ones.

Is there a type of material I need to be careful not to use on top of that screw? For conductivity reasons or otherwise?

I have to say, this thing blows my VVs out of the water. They always made me cough. I think it's the pulse width, because this is smooth vapor.

The solid aluminum tube is a nice touch, too. It makes the whole mod feel really sturdy.

 

[bsoplinger]

People have posted that they've used a piece of spaghetti, coat hanger, bit of a paper clip and all sorts of other materials. Conductivity doesn't matter. What's important is size. You want as large as possible while still allowing freedom of movement of the switch pieces. The reason bigger is better in this case is because it'll help stabilize the switch, reduce wobble.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[ScottChensoda]

I'm not sure why folk are having issues with a slackness of fit unless maybe some have not removed the kick ring that comes as part of the tube. If you are experiencing excess movement then I can only suggest using rare earth spacing magnets between the screw and the bottom of the battery. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...lp-what-can-i-use-place-battery-spacer-2.html

 

[zero7starz]

I'm not sure why folk are having issues with a slackness of fit unless maybe some have not removed the kick ring that comes as part of the tube. If you are experiencing excess movement then I can only suggest using rare earth spacing magnets between the screw and the bottom of the battery. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...lp-what-can-i-use-place-battery-spacer-2.html

I'm using a solid aluminum tube which eliminates the placement of the kick ring anyway.

I can tell you that the throw on my switch is long because I am using a flat top battery, which according to the thread you posted, an earth magnet may help with.

No, my actual issue is not slack in the throw of the switch, but the switch staying together. The rice pin seems a large culprit with that, as well as the screw unscrewing itself out of the switch.

 

[crxess]

I'm using a solid aluminum tube which eliminates the placement of the kick ring anyway.

I can tell you that the throw on my switch is long because I am using a flat top battery, which according to the thread you posted, an earth magnet may help with.

No, my actual issue is not slack in the throw of the switch, but the switch staying together. The rice pin seems a large culprit with that, as well as the screw unscrewing itself out of the switch.

If you are trying to tighten with fingers and expect it to hold, good luck. Compress the switch and tighten the center pin with needle nose pliers.

 

[Donovan69]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8zhK3nEskg

 

[Ryedan]

If you are trying to tighten with fingers and expect it to hold, good luck. Compress the switch and tighten the center pin with needle nose pliers.

This ^^^ is what I've been doing since the first time the switch screw unscrewed in mine. It doesn't matter weather you have springs or magnets in this puppy, that screw needs to be made tighter somehow. I have three magnets in mine so when I compress the switch the screw head doesn't come up far enough to get large pliers on it. The ends of my pliers are small enough to fit between the outside of the screw head and the inside of the plastic insulator a bit. Don't tighten it down too tight.

Works well for me.