Nemesis Switch Help

[zero7starz]

If you are trying to tighten with fingers and expect it to hold, good luck. Compress the switch and tighten the center pin with needle nose pliers.

I didn't want to over tighten it at first.


Found a place to get a replacement rice pin that should be better, thicker, and shorter. The same place also carried the upgrades to the extended firing pin, and the larger positive contacts.

They also carried the Nemesis Top Cap Delrin Insulators, which I'm not sure what they do or how they would help. Or even just where do they install to insulate the top cap?

Lastly, I also found a straight up replacement switch on Vaper Rev. It's like $24. That's like $5 more than what all the upgrades I listed above cost. Which would actually yield the better results? As far as I can tell, Vaper Revs isn't a legit nem switch, but they hint that it's supposed to be better.

Which would be the better upgrade for the price? I'm thinking all the little upgrades would be better, but idk (lol) that's why I'm asking :B

 

[bsoplinger]

Sounds like you've found fatdaddyvapes. His stuff is good. He's taken care to have the right size and strength magnets, for example. Means part of what you're paying for is him having done the work in figuring out what's correct.

Magnets are the best update. The extended pins allow you to use the beauty ring, which I think really improves the look of the Nemesis but isn't necessary.

If you haven't examined the way the top cap is setup, I'll try to explain. It's metal, with a delrin core that has a hole threaded for a 510 connector. You thread the atomizer on then tighten the top cap screw to make sure you have a good electrical connection. It's easy enough to wear down the delrin, especially by tightening too much. Hence the replacement.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[TDC123]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rt-stiff-throw-my-nemesis-2mm-ss-magnets.html

That's what I did and my switch is now short and firm with no binding.

 

[zero7starz]

Sounds like you've found fatdaddyvapes. His stuff is good. He's taken care to have the right size and strength magnets, for example. Means part of what you're paying for is him having done the work in figuring out what's correct.

Magnets are the best update. The extended pins allow you to use the beauty ring, which I think really improves the look of the Nemesis but isn't necessary.

If you haven't examined the way the top cap is setup, I'll try to explain. It's metal, with a delrin core that has a hole threaded for a 510 connector. You thread the atomizer on then tighten the top cap screw to make sure you have a good electrical connection. It's easy enough to wear down the delrin, especially by tightening too much. Hence the replacement.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

Awesome, thanks.

I don't need nor use a beauty ring because I don't use a kick, and because I'm using the solid aluminum tubes. I may still pick up the extended firing pins later on.

I examined the top cap. I see what you mean and what that is now. I kept thinking it was an add on to the top cap and I couldn't figure out why lol.

I did install the switch magnets today. Went, pretty perfectly. The switch actually feels shorter and stronger. It wobbles less, and does not have any kind of "crunch" which I am very pleased with.

I'll keep an eye for more lil upgrades for the Nemesis, but as of right now I'm pretty pleased with the way it's functioning now.

 

[bsoplinger]

If you're bothered by the wobble in the switch there's a rather simple fix you can try. The rice pin, that tiny metal pin in the switch, is the predominant stabilizer of the switch. The machining tolerances are so loose on the clones that you can make your switch more stable just by increasing the diameter of the rice pin. Conductivity isn't required so practically any material that's strong enough can be used. You want a pin with a diameter that just barely allows the 2 parts of the switch to easily slide inside each other.

As far as the beauty ring...

I too have one of my Nemeses setup with the full length aluminum anodized tubes. The extended top cap pin allows me to use the beauty ring on the top of the mod, just under the top cap. Visually the smooth beauty ring and smooth top cap better balance the width of the smooth lock ring at the bottom. You can see what I'm trying to describe by assembling your Nemesis with the beauty ring but without a battery.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[eturf]

My nemesis clone drove me crazy when I was trying to use an 18650 in it. To use one, I had to loosen the top and bottom screw terminals almost all the way so the battery would make contact on the top and the bottom. But when you loosen the bottom screw more than a small amount, it allows the "grain of rice" pin to fall out, then you can no longer easily unscrew the bottom to changed the batt, plus you have the stupid pin rattling around inside. The way I solved it was to buy a magnetic Bolt to use for 18650s, and started using the Nemesis for 18350 and 18500 batteries only. As others have probably mentioned, the way to prevent problems with the rice pin is to screw down the terminal hard, or use a locking washer, so it never moves, which keeps in the pin, and only use the top terminal screw for adjustments.

 

[crxess]

My nemesis clone drove me crazy when I was trying to use an 18650 in it. To use one, I had to loosen the top and bottom screw terminals almost all the way so the battery would make contact on the top and the bottom. But when you loosen the bottom screw more than a small amount, it allows the "grain of rice" pin to fall out, then you can no longer easily unscrew the bottom to changed the batt, plus you have the stupid pin rattling around inside. The way I solved it was to buy a magnetic Bolt to use for 18650s, and started using the Nemesis for 18350 and 18500 batteries only. As others have probably mentioned, the way to prevent problems with the rice pin is to screw down the terminal hard, or use a locking washer, so it never moves, which keeps in the pin, and only use the top terminal screw for adjustments.

You do not understand the Nemesis.
Top pin is for adjusting contact to the topper center pin. Back out, flush mount Topper, snug pin, install top cap to mod.
18650 or any 18xxx without kick - Remove the 5mm Beauty ring.
If you want the Beauty ring - purchase extended pins(Thicker heads) to take out the slack.

Nemesis is purpose built and everything about it works. You just have to get to know what is what.

 

[HughDaHand]

If you're bothered by the wobble in the switch there's a rather simple fix you can try. The rice pin, that tiny metal pin in the switch, is the predominant stabilizer of the switch. The machining tolerances are so loose on the clones that you can make your switch more stable just by increasing the diameter of the rice pin. Conductivity isn't required so practically any material that's strong enough can be used. You want a pin with a diameter that just barely allows the 2 parts of the switch to easily slide inside each other.

This made a world of difference with my 4 nemesis clones. All 4 of them had different sized holes holding the same size rice pin. I actually custom made a pin for each of them out of a small piece of solid copper wire that I found in my garage, the kind that is in your walls for electricity. I just took a piece then sandwiched it between a piece of sand paper and spun it. Every so often I would check the fit and once I got a smooth action I cut it to length and installed it into the switch. Copper is fairly soft so it sanded rather quick and easily, all 4 switches took me maybe 20 mins or so. On 3 out of the 4 the difference was night and day, the 4th one was fine from the start but since I was already doing it I made one for it, it did get a little better.

 

[anumber1]

This made a world of difference with my 4 nemesis clones. All 4 of them had different sized holes holding the same size rice pin. I actually custom made a pin for each of them out of a small piece of solid copper wire that I found in my garage, the kind that is in your walls for electricity. I just took a piece then sandwiched it between a piece of sand paper and spun it. Every so often I would check the fit and once I got a smooth action I cut it to length and installed it into the switch. Copper is fairly soft so it sanded rather quick and easily, all 4 switches took me maybe 20 mins or so. On 3 out of the 4 the difference was night and day, the 4th one was fine from the start but since I was already doing it I made one for it, it did get a little better.

I have done the same thing with my Nemesis clone. Started with 10 gauge copper wire (snipped from a chunk of romex I had), about 4 inches worth.

Chucked it in my drill and spun it in some emory cloth until it fit snug but not binding in my switch. Improved that switch a lot. With a bit of smoothing in the rice pin groves with a jewler's file, it is smooth as silk now.

Using 3 FT Nemesis magnets. 2 in the bottom of the switch, one on top against the copper. perfect feel for me and stands wobble free , unlocked in 18650 mode with a KF 3.1 on top. About as heavy as it gets.

 

[Crow2]

I need to try to replace the rice pin as mentioned above. Mine binds more with the magnets now then it ever did with the spring. In fact I need to leave the firing button a touch loose to keep it from binding. I did go back to the spring temporarily, but I like being able to leave it standing (2 magnets on bottom, 1 on top)

I found a great fix to keep the bottom pin tight. Use one of the little rubber 'condoms' that cartomizers come in, preferably the tip covers they give you at shops to sample flavors, for they already have the hole. I just used an xacto knife to cut the base out and then put it on the bottom pin/screw, and tightened it down. Now it doesnt budge, even with only finger tightening.