Nemesis switch pin problems.

[crxess]

Do you know why it unthreads?

The same reason people find the Nemesis firing button to not work right and try to fix it with magnets rather than addressing the real problem.

The real problem is the Nemesis was designed around button top batteries and has about 1.5mm more room inside than the average flat top. In order to make flat top batteries work you've got to leave the pins slightly loose, which allows but the bottom and the top pin to unscrew with use.

If you REALLY want to fix the problem then don't waste time and money on magnet kits or washers, just switch to button top batteries.

I use button tops and my pins are always nice and tight. The pins do not unscrew themselves, there is never any crunching at all from the (still spring loaded) button, and it never ever misfires. The only time I open mine up is when I want to change the topper or the battery. I never have problems with the mech itself.

Not sure where you get your information.
I have been on the site of the Original many times and NEVER seen a Battery Top Configuration Recommendation. Never seen any reference of DESIGNED AROUND button top batteries either.

Do you actually believe all 18650 batteries are the same length? I have several that would prove you wrong.

 

[Completely Average]

Not sure where you get your information.
I have been on the site of the Original many times and NEVER seen a Battery Top Configuration Recommendation. Never seen any reference of DESIGNED AROUND button top batteries either.

Of course not. It's "designed" to work with either, it just works with one type a whole lot better than another.

Do you actually believe all 18650 batteries are the same length? I have several that would prove you wrong.

If I believed all 18650 batteries were the same length I wouldn't have said that the Nemesis works better with button tops than with flat tops because of the length, would I?

Logic, it's a wonderful thing.


BTW......

If I were to remove the button top and reduce the button throw by the same amount, is there enough button throw left to push the contact pin out of the insulating ring?

No?

Then what is the solution? To have the contact pin be a little loose, which allows it to unscrew, right? And if that contact pin is not firmly screwed in the pin wobbles around which allows the whole button to wobble around, which causes the button to contact the body of the mod and that's where you get your crunchy buttons and misfires from, right?

Understanding engineering is a much better skill to have than the ability to read advertisements.

 

[Txhd01]

Do you know why it unthreads?

The same reason people find the Nemesis firing button to not work right and try to fix it with magnets rather than addressing the real problem.

The real problem is the Nemesis was designed around button top batteries and has about 1.5mm more room inside than the average flat top. In order to make flat top batteries work you've got to leave the pins slightly loose, which allows but the bottom and the top pin to unscrew with use.

If you REALLY want to fix the problem then don't waste time and money on magnet kits or washers, just switch to button top batteries.

I use button tops and my pins are always nice and tight. The pins do not unscrew themselves, there is never any crunching at all from the (still spring loaded) button, and it never ever misfires. The only time I open mine up is when I want to change the topper or the battery. I never have problems with the mech itself.

Not the case at all. I use button top batts and my firing pin always unscrews.


Keep Calm and Vape On

 

[anumber1]

Will do. Thanks. Would you recommend the cheapo Fasttech magnets?

The fasttech magnets work great.

I use 3. Two in the bottom of the switch, one on the top side.

Holds up a full kayfun 3.1 in 18650 mode no problem. Feels better than the spring too.

 

[Vaslovik]

The reason it unthreads is due to the spring. When you press the switch the spring induces some axial torque, overtime this causes the pin to loosen.

I don't think it's the spring, I replaced the spring in mine with magnets, and it still does that. I still have to take it apart and screw the pin back down now and then. I also use button top batteries.

 

[Ryedan]

It unscrews if it's not on tight enough. I use a pair of small needle nose pliers to gently give it a bit of torque when assembling it and that does it for me. The pliers have to be thin enough to fit between the plastic insulator and the screw head a bit when you compress the button.

Magnets or springs make no difference to this.

IMO battery length is irrelevant. When you screw down the switch assembly, the brass switch nut pushes the plastic insulator onto the bottom of the battery. As long as the correct tube parts are being used so that can happen, battery length doesn't come into the picture.

I would not use locktight as the positive screw needs to make good electrical contact with the button. It just seems like asking for trouble to me.