New coils

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James C

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So I bought the 2.6-2.8 ohm coils. The vape is light and the TH is meh on a regular Triton battery. I used two flavors on these coils. First was Belgian cocoa, now its Tribeca. I didn't really notice it on the BC... is there anyway I can correct this? I know the obvious answer is to get a VV and crank up the voltage. But that will have to wait, I've been too vape crazy lately and with Black Friday comingup, I'll have to put off buying a lot of vape stuff...
 
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Bravesfan

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Yeah, I have stuck with the standard coils because they seem to work pretty good with everything.

Just haven't ventured out there yet.

And BigBen2K, you are correct in that coffee flavors are sensitive.

If I am going to burn anything, it will be the coffee flavors and I have done it a few times so I try to be really careful.

Can't wait to see the list you guys come up with.

Will be really beneficial when I do venture out there and try something else.

Thought about a VV but don't feel comfortable going there yet.

When I decide to, I really just want to go full force and get a Provari or something like that.

Of course I would still keep my Triton for everyday, but a MOD would be kinda fun I think.

Cindy
 

pufZeppelin

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So I bought the 2.6-2.8 ohm coils.
The vape is light and the TH is meh on a regular Triton battery. I used two flavors on these coils. First was Belgian cocoa, now its Tribeca. I didn't really notice it on the BC... is there anyway I can correct this? I know the obvious answer is to get a VV and crank up the voltage. But that will have to wait, I've been too vape crazy lately and with Black Friday comingup, I'll have to put off buying a lot of vape stuff...

so the standard coil is 2.2-2.4Ω and you bought the 2.6-2.8Ω coils

I think you went the wrong way
to intensify, maybe be better off with a 1.8-2.0Ω coil, on a regular triton battery (jus sayin`)

JMO

Vape≈Strong :2cool:
 

BigBen2k

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Here's a complete list of current Halo offerings:
Turkish Tobacco
Kringle's Curse
HX3
Freedom Juice
Belgian Cocoa
Captain Jack
SubZero
Twisted Java
Cafe Mocha
LongHorn
Midnight Apple
CoolMist
Tiki Juice
Torque56
Tribeca
Shamrock
Prime15
Mystic
Menthol ICE
Malibu
Voodoo
Southern Classic

I'd suggest a simple 1-5 rating system, with 3 being the default base point, on a standard coil. So:
1- much worse
2-worse
3-same
4-better
5-much better

Anyone is welcome to offer their rating; just make sure your rating is based on recent experience (trying a flavor months apart may not be terribly useful, given different batches and seeping time). Since Triton batteries aren't regulated, it'd be best to vape a whole tank before rendering judgement.

Coil resistances are:
1) 1.8 - 2.0
2) 2.2 - 2.4 (standard)
3) 2.6 - 2.8
4) 3.0 - 3.2
 
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KMully

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So while this might not be the best thread to ask this on, bear with me...can someone please explain the difference in the ohms (besides the number/thickness) I have a Triton VV ( LOVE IT) which Halo recommends using the 3.0-3.2ohms- but what does it do? I have the standard that come with the clearos(tanks~still working on my terminology!) and the 3.0-3.2ohm. Looking for the best taste, as we all are and have ordered soooo much juice, I just want to make sure doing it like the pros!(without building my own deal or mixing my own stuff~ Im NOT there yet!) thanks!
 

KMully

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So while this might not be the best thread to ask this on, bear with me...can someone please explain the difference in the ohms (besides the number/thickness) I have a Triton VV ( LOVE IT) which Halo recommends using the 3.0-3.2ohms- but what does it do? I have the standard that come with the clearos(tanks~still working on my terminology!) and the 3.0-3.2ohm. Looking for the best taste, as we all are and have ordered soooo much juice, I just want to make sure doing it like the pros!(without building my own deal or mixing my own stuff~ Im NOT there yet!) thanks!****also how do you delete a post if you accidentally post twice!!! sorry!***
 
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DaveOno

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Interesting. I like it.

I'm only using standard 2.2-2.4 coils. With the standard 650 mAh, I can tell which juices should be hotter and which should go colder, but my range is only from a fully charged bat vs a near empty one. (I need a VV!!!)

Maybe the ratings should show direction? Like

A Needs to be colder
B Needs to be a little colder
C Just right!
D Needs more heat
E Needs much more heat

Now, so we understand, if a juice needs more heat, you can either go to a lower coil or higher voltage. I think TriBeCa could go D more heat, based on standard coils. This infers a lower coil (or higher voltage)

There's 2 other variables that will muddy this up further. An old coil; does the filament get thinner, lowering the ohms, burning hotter, till it eventually goes too thin and burns out? Or does it acquire scruntus and gunk, raising the resistance, burning cooler and cooler, till you get almost no vapor production? I haven't the experience to know this yet.

The other variable is.. I say TriBeCa could go hotter, but others love it at standard, and others want it colder. Remember what the cannibals say, we all taste different...
 

BigBen2k

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...

Maybe the ratings should show direction? Like

A Needs to be colder
B Needs to be a little colder
C Just right!
D Needs more heat
E Needs much more heat

...

There's 2 other variables that will muddy this up further. An old coil; does the filament get thinner, lowering the ohms, burning hotter, till it eventually goes too thin and burns out? Or does it acquire scruntus and gunk, raising the resistance, burning cooler and cooler, till you get almost no vapor production? I haven't the experience to know this yet.

The other variable is.. I say TriBeCa could go hotter, but others love it at standard, and others want it colder. Remember what the cannibals say, we all taste different...
I'd agree, but heat alone is not quite the full factor. The flavor profile may change significantly with a different coil. Some flavors may improve with a touch of a burnt taste, or different blends may push one element over another, in subjective ways.

Coils don't degrade like that. The material is usually Kanthal (aka Nichrome), a highly heat resistant metal used to fabricate electrical heating elements for decades. What does happen, on occasion, is that coils occasionally bunch up together, and short themselves out, partially, leaving one or more hot spots. Anyone who does a dry burn as part of their maintenance can spot these, and they can be fixed. Left alone, that short will break a coil. Anyone that does proper maintenance can clear a gunked up coil, but I'm not interested in chasing people over their maintenance habits. :p
 

DaveOno

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So while this might not be the best thread to ask this on, bear with me...can someone please explain the difference in the ohms (besides the number/thickness) I have a Triton VV ( LOVE IT) which Halo recommends using the 3.0-3.2ohms- but what does it do? I have the standard that come with the clearos(tanks~still working on my terminology!) and the 3.0-3.2ohm. Looking for the best taste, as we all are and have ordered soooo much juice, I just want to make sure doing it like the pros!(without building my own deal or mixing my own stuff~ Im NOT there yet!) thanks!

You have higher ohms coils. They burn colder than the standard coils at the same voltage. So, you can go colder, then try hits turning it up a little every time. It is suggested you start at lowest voltage, then go up, till you like it.

And just go to your second dupe post, and edit it all out, leaving, "my bad, was a dupe post"
 

chesty

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So while this might not be the best thread to ask this on, bear with me...can someone please explain the difference in the ohms (besides the number/thickness) I have a Triton VV ( LOVE IT) which Halo recommends using the 3.0-3.2ohms- but what does it do? I have the standard that come with the clearos(tanks~still working on my terminology!) and the 3.0-3.2ohm. Looking for the best taste, as we all are and have ordered soooo much juice, I just want to make sure doing it like the pros!(without building my own deal or mixing my own stuff~ Im NOT there yet!) thanks!

1 ohm is hotter than 3 ohms on the standard non adjustable battery. because your battery is adjustable, it's not as important. the recommendation is 3 ohms as that gives you the widest usable range of cold to hot vape, but if the standard 2.2 ohm coils produce a good flavour and aren't too hot on the lowest setting, use those until they die, then replace them with 3 ohm coils.

if 3 ohms gives you a cold to hot range on the VV battery like yours
2.2 ohms might give you a warm to omg that's way too hot range, and if warm is too warm, there's nothing you can do other than replace the coil with a 3 ohm one.


in a nutshell, if the 2.2 ohm coils work, use them until dead, then replace with 3 ohm coil. you'll find you'll vape the 2.2 ohm coil at a different voltage setting as the 3 ohm coil to get the same vape.
 

DaveOno

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I'd agree, but heat alone is not quite the full factor. The flavor profile may change significantly with a different coil. Some flavors may improve with a touch of a burnt taste, or different blends may push one element over another, in subjective ways.

Coils don't degrade like that. The material is usually Kanthal (aka Nichrome), a highly heat resistant metal used to fabricate electrical heating elements for decades. What does happen, on occasion, is that coils occasionally bunch up together, and short themselves out, partially, leaving one or more hot spots. Anyone who does a dry burn as part of their maintenance can spot these, and they can be fixed. Left alone, that short will break a coil. Anyone that does proper maintenance can clear a gunked up coil, but I'm not interested in chasing people over their maintenance habits. :p

I have another question for you, BigBen. I am only using 2.2 - 2.4 ohm coils. What does it mean if I measure a used coil at 3 ohms? Is it gunked? I dry burned it, looks ok. These are all standard tanks. What can I do? I have another juice (from Alice) that just didn't work with it. Put another coil I measured at 2.4, and it now vapes nice.
Thanks.
 

DaveOno

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Hm, I haven't encountered that; I might have to add it to my maintenance routine!

It means your coil is damaged, and about to die. Toss it now or later, that's up to you.

You mean adding an ohm check to your maintenance? I'm doing this, cause it bites to fill a tank, only to have to dump it into another cause the coil just won't cut it.

So, the coil has more resistance, and as the resistance goes up, the temp goes down, and results in less vape, yes? I just wonder what is happening to the wire. And I'll use it again, but in a juice that can go cooler. And if after that tank, it might go higher?

Just trying to predict. It either breaks, open circuit, and I get nothing, or the ohms goes up with use, resulting in less vape.
 

BigBen2k

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You can swap a head, if the level is under 1.6 mL (1.8 if you go real slow). (so... 1st fill up to 1.6 only?)

Yeah, a higher resistance means less power goes through, so it's colder.

What can happen to a coil, is that it can get bunched up, and when it does, it can leave part of it cold, leaving the rest hotter than normal. The stress on the hot part makes it very vulnerable to breaking (open circuit). That's why I dry burn all my coils; I can fix anomalies before they cause a break. Bonus, it cleans the wicks too.

Another way to look at it: sticking a knife in a toaster. The knife will survive pretty much intact (you might not!) but the coil will break.
 
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chesty

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This is just my personal opinion.
gunk on top of the coil can only reduce resistance by providing another path for current, but it's not going to be significant.
bunched coils would reduce resistance too.
Where you could get increased resistance is gunk between where the legs of the coil touch the metal of the head and/or the metal of the centre pin.
The legs just sit there, pressed against the metal by the grommet. if juice got in between the grommet and the metal head/centre pin, it could cause a high resistance joint.
you can't really clean there either, at least not by remove the grommet and cleaning it, because you'd need a miracle to get everything back together again with such short legs.
If you soak the entire head then dry and do a dry burn, it might help. that's assuming my theory is right, and I'm not claiming it is.
just be gentle with dry burns, if the legs get too hot, they can burn the grommet and spoil the flavour.
 

chesty

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correct, they're not attached. I haven't watched that video yet (is it a video? maybe it's just a page), I used a cotton micro coil protank video by rip trippers on youtube, the anatomy of the heads are very similar. outer sleeve, grommet, centre pin. one wire of the coil sits between the outer sleeve and the grommet, the other between the grommet and the centre pin.
I would highly recommend a micro coil. they just work, my first micro coil worked, it was quite amazing. well it actually took me 3 goes to get the coil and legs in place, it's a little fiddly the first time, but once assembled it worked first go, no hot spots, no burnt taste, no hot legs.
 

BigBen2k

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(it's a page, not a vid)
I agree with the micro coil idea; it makes more sense than the needle method.

I'm just interested in rebuilding the coil, same as it was, for now. I just can't figure out how the legs don't turn bright red. I know that the legs are normally a different diameter (different gauge wire), and I can get around that by doubling up the wire for those sections.
 
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