Ok this is going to sound dumb but how do i search for the post number on Tapatalk? Or even the main website?
I would just scroll back until you find it. The post# is in the upper right of the post.
Ok this is going to sound dumb but how do i search for the post number on Tapatalk? Or even the main website?
I found them using this method.I would just scroll back until you find it. The post# is in the upper right of the post.
Discount Vapers, a U.S. site & ECF supplier, has the minis for $19.99 right now.I think I'm the only person who never had issues with the 510 connector on the istick. Then again I always use the EGO adaptor (the clearos in the picture are Kanger EMOWs which are the bee's knees).
One thing to note about the Mini that I didn't realize until I got it: it's a variable-voltage device, not variable-wattage like the normal istick. And of course, the battery life is less than half that of the normal IStick.
Still, cute as a button, much less conspicuous to my mind than an EGO battery, and only $18.13 plus shipping at the excellent Chinese site CVapor.
I found them using this method.
Thanks again for the help!
Seems a bit too complicated for me though.
Enjoying the egrip though!

Tut tut! Well you would if you had the starship enterprise!!!![]()
Anyone started making their own coils for the rba base? Will 0.32mm wire fit?
Thanks
I haven't had an issues filling the eGrip with either a plastic dripper bottle or a glass dropper. Just hold the nozzle of the bottle right up against the larger fill hole and it should fill up without leaking all over the place.- fill and vent holes arranged vertically for a larger fill hole to allow drippers
I'm not sure if you'll get much more airflow using the RBA's built in airhole and the egrip AFC. I mean, the hole at the center of the RBA is already 3/32" even if you add more airflow you're still restricted to that 3/32" hole.You all must be M2L hitters.Not me, I'm considering modding my rba for max output. Rewicked many diff ways but the slightly restrictive air flow through the rba base keeps the device from providing max vapor ouput at 20w. The coil overheats and floods with extended pulls. Hoping to use both the rba airhole and the afc in unison to regulate an increased air flow.
I've been using this simple coil jig for about a year now. Just a small scrap of wood, a screw, and a few holes for different sized drill bits. I usually cut off a length of wire instead of leaving it on the spool, but I usually pinch a pair of hemostats on the loose end of the wire so there's something to hold onto and keep tension.There are many ways/tools to tension wind your coils and all of them use the concept of turning or spinning a mandrel/tool while feeding the wire directly from the wire spool. Turn the tool, not the wire.
More on this later but check out winding coils with pin vises, artisan coiling gizmos or my blog "cigamajig".
I use a coil jig for tension. I do micro coils. Nice and neat. Works amazing on my kayfun4 and squape r.Sure, 28awg (.32mm) 9/8wrap, on the little blue screwdriver or 5/64" (2mm) winding mandrel. Should get you 1.2-1.3 ohms but you should try to wind your coil with tension if possible. There are many posts by MacTechVpr and others here on ecf about tension winding and I have found it to be the single most beneficial addition to my vaping experience to date.
If your preinstalled rba coil looked anything like mine it showed the tell tale signs of tension winding and proper setting techniques. Near perfect uniformity in diameter, straightness and all turns touching. These attributes will ensure that the wicking is equally compressed against the inside of the coil which ensures equal transport of juice throughout the coil. That translates to equilibrium in coil temperature ie. no hot spots or thermal overrun.
Where does tension get you? Faster firing times, higher wattage without burning, less flooding, less gurgling, better flavor, less burny taste, cooler vape, extended coil life, extended wick life, extended battery life....must I go on?
There are many ways/tools to tension wind your coils and all of them use the concept of turning or spinning a mandrel/tool while feeding the wire directly from the wire spool. Turn the tool, not the wire.
More on this later but check out winding coils with pin vises, artisan coiling gizmos or my blog "cigamajig".
I use a coil jig for tension. I do micro coils. Nice and neat. Works amazing on my kayfun4 and squape r.
I did however come in to some trouble filling it up. This is my second time filling up. First time was flawless.
What happens is that using the larger fill hole, i found e liquid was coming back up the small one next it? Took me 10mins to sort it all out. Fixed now but curious why it was coming back up?
Was using a bottle with the usual tip. Nice and slow too.
Will try my own 6-7wrap coil and my own ... cotton and see if there's any difference!
Sure, when i come to do it i shall take some pics etc.You may, as I did, find that setting shorter coils than 9/8 wrap without distortion is difficult to achieve using the post holes. And I'm not sure if the screw heads are large enough to trap wire underneath either. Haven't tried that yet.
Also, please share which coil jig you are using and maybe a pic or two showing the resulting coil.



So I was bored at work. To clean the tank, take the top cover off. Tank slides right out! Pretty thick glass!
The rba chimney has 4 feed holes for juice. 2 of them line up with the wick, the other 2 are behind the terminals. I re-wicked with shiseido cotton and stuffed a little bit behind the terminal feed holes. Hopefully this solves my leaking issue.
To the airflow issues, I am used to a much more open draw! Straight lung hits. Almost like I forgot how to do mouth to lung hits. The airflow on the rba is so much better than the stock base, for me. YMMV.
I can see how the airflow could be opened up on the stock base but it raises some questions. If you cut the tube off the bottom base. Drill out the hole in the base. Drill out the hole under the base. Drill out the holes in the stock base. It might be close to the draw of the rba. Would you possibly get battery vapors in the airstream?
If you remove the airtube from the top cover, it could be shortened where it press fits to the top. Then you could use other heads.
See above pics!
Seeing that you have had yours apart, do you think an 18650 batt. would fit into it?
When i refilled mine the second time it leaked out of the smaller air/fill hole a lot. Took like 10mins to sort it out. Why i dont know. As the first time was flawless.OK. So I guess it's important to know higher vg juices wick like crap on the pre-built Atomizer
Unfortunately my RBA is damaged. I'll have to wait. But I have to say
Unit gargle and needs a blow out a alarm kayfun after filling
Anything but base power on pre-built coils or higher vg juices seem to wick poorly
The power control is extremely unintuitive
I need to go recover from multiple awful dry hits. Ugh. I hope the RBA does better. In speaking to the vendor they validated that it has to pressurized and can gurgle and leak slightly on fill
Have you all experienced these issues? Maybe the air hole screw completely out doesn't work?
Also if it turns upside down it leaks profusely into the drip tip receiver. Even for a minute.
I'm hoping this all has to do with the pre-built coils and air hole screw (factory shipped mine without one)
Need to figure out why it leaked when filling though. Although it leaked a tiny bit from the bottom earlier on. Don't know why.