Hi! I'm a fairly new vaper and I've been using an Aspire CF VV with a Kanger mini tank. The battery works fine with my nautilus, but when I connect the Kanger mini it just won't work.... the light flashes three times when I press the button. I recently washed the tank, but left the coil alone to prevent damage. Anyone can help me with this problem?
New member! Having problem with my tank suddenly not working.
- Thread starter Merridew
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Welcome to the forum Merridew. I don't have the answer but I feel certain someone will come along shortly that can help.
Sounds like the Kanger is shorted. Carefully inspect the bottom, make sure there's no shard of metal or something shorting out the connector.
Do you have a spare coil head you can try?
And Welcome to ECF!
Do you have a spare coil head you can try?
And Welcome to ECF!
Here's how to clean and reassemble your Kanger.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cleaning+Kanger+mini+tank
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cleaning+Kanger+mini+tank
Welcome Merridew!
I'd also suggest a short. Try un-squishing the rubber between bottom and base of your coil. Also when attaching to your Aspire mod, try to screw on only finger tight.
This has helped me with shorts in the past. Good luck!
I'd also suggest a short. Try un-squishing the rubber between bottom and base of your coil. Also when attaching to your Aspire mod, try to screw on only finger tight.
This has helped me with shorts in the past. Good luck!
Usually I try to unscrew the thing at the bottom of the 510 connection on the atomizer if that happens
Let me start this off by saying there is nothing wrong with any of your hardware. I also have a nautilus mini, CF VV+ battery, and a subtank mini. The pin on the kanger doesn't stick out far enough to make good contact with the battery. I have an istick 30w in the mail so I'm not worried to much about it. But unless you find a way to get either pin on the tank or battery to protrude from its housing more, it won't fire. You can check this yourself by holding the two tanks 510 connections next to each other (opposite directions so the pins are both facing the base of the other tank) and you will notice the gap in between the kanger pin and nautilus base. In flashlights they use something called a rare earth magnet sometimes to fix such gaps when using button less batteries. I know nothing of it, but perhaps you could check it out. Or get another mod/battery. At the vape shop, my kanger fired perfectly fine on an istick 50w and an IPV 3.
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Ok so sitting here with an unusable subtank mini I decided to give it another go. The battery pin is floating, therefore non adjustable. The kanger pin can be pulled out a little. Doing this I was able to get a good connection.
I have the 1.2 ohm coil installed. I got Vapor but almost Zero flavor. Switched back to the nautilus mini and the flavor was great. I'm not sure if installing the .5 ohm coil would benefit you, assuming you are even able to get a connection. Either way I think you should invest in a better mod/battery.
The istick 30w is pretty much perfect for the subtank mini. I would recommend it. Best form factor you can find (small), around 40 bucks shipped (or less) dependable. Great battery life. Check out the reviews and compare to get what's right for you. However I must say... Good luck finding something better than the istick 30w
Vape on my friend.
I have the 1.2 ohm coil installed. I got Vapor but almost Zero flavor. Switched back to the nautilus mini and the flavor was great. I'm not sure if installing the .5 ohm coil would benefit you, assuming you are even able to get a connection. Either way I think you should invest in a better mod/battery.
The istick 30w is pretty much perfect for the subtank mini. I would recommend it. Best form factor you can find (small), around 40 bucks shipped (or less) dependable. Great battery life. Check out the reviews and compare to get what's right for you. However I must say... Good luck finding something better than the istick 30w
Vape on my friend.
I used to have this problem switching tanks on a CF VV. Try to play around with the floating pin on top of the battery. Sometimes mine would get stuck down and not make contact with certain tanks.
I still have to do this with my MVP2 and some tanks that push the pin in. I take some tweezers and gently wiggle the pin on the MVP up just a touch (you can't even really see the millimeter or so that you pull it up). Always fixes the problem.
This could've gone in a separate thread, but no biggie!
I prefer the Subtank over the Atlantis. I own a Subtank, but I've used an Atlantis. The Subtank is nice because it has the option to rebuild your own coils using the RBA deck if you either wanna save money, or give yourself a shot at rebuilding.
They're both just as easy to use, and they both hit about the same (you'll get different responses depending who you ask).
I'm sorry lol I'm still new to the forum. I have an igo-m v2 a tugboat v1 & v2 and a stillare v1 but Ive heard a lot of good things about both. I've watched reviews on both and I think I'm gonna go with the Subtank. Thank you!
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