New Mini Mod Model

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Para

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This one is based on the 10280 battery. Since the mah rating is 200, it's questionable whether it will vape long enough to be practical. If I get 1.5 hours, for me, it's a yes. Less than that and it's more of a novelty item. I do like how everything fits in the 2AAA box; it's a really clean look.

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mini6-1.jpg
 

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Para

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Thanks so much...but it's the box that allows the build. It's perfect for the components. I just wish the battery was 2000 mah instead of 200; then we'd be cookin'.

But, I am going smaller using a 10180 battery. It's good for a half dozen drags before it dies, but it will be a new world record !

About 32mm is as small as is possible using regular style rechargeable li-ion batteries.

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asdaq

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Nice one again Para, you might like the smaller connectors :) or grind down the base of the bigger ones. You mention the 10180 as good for 'half a dozen' which leads one down the path to think about a dozen, 12, but 6 drags?!?!?

It took me awhile to find the switch on this one. I'm curious to hear how the batt holds up (should be done by now).
 

utak3r

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Since the mah rating is 200, it's questionable whether it will vape long enough to be practical. If I get 1.5 hours, for me, it's a yes.

Hm, I think it'd be the less important question... the most one would be: how much current it can give to you? I can't vape even the 10440 for that reason.
However... 14250 tiny batt rated at 280mAh is quite reasonable with 510 atties. So I would say it depends on a given cell :)
 

Para

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Nice one again Para, you might like the smaller connectors :) or grind down the base of the bigger ones. You mention the 10180 as good for 'half a dozen' which leads one down the path to think about a dozen, 12, but 6 drags?!?!?

It took me awhile to find the switch on this one. I'm curious to hear how the batt holds up (should be done by now).
Got busy working on a couple of projects I've put off and didn't get to spend much time on the new Mini.

When I get a big order of attys it's a PITA to check using probes so I finished up an Ohm Checker...plug it into my meter and screw on the appropriate atty and slide the switch to activate the connector.

ohmtester.jpg


....and this one was a BEAR. I'm replacing the existing buttons on the board so I had to solder wires where they were attached. The distance between connections is approx. .35mm; easily the toughest solder job I've done in a long, long time. Now I can put the momentary and power switches any place I want in the box. The hard part is done....

solder2.jpg




6 is just a number but at 90-100 mah (10180), it won't be many that's for sure. Looks like I'm getting about an hour out of the 10280, but that will depend on how often I hit the battery. I'll do a count and compare it to the 14250 when I have a bit more time. Maybe if I use the nuclear version I can get 23.5 years before having to change it out. lol

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Para

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but it's the box that allows the build...

very humble...and very cool

Question: On the atty station could the bat connectors be wired in series? is the slider needed?

have you played with li-po batteries (pouches)?
any thoughts about step-up circuits?

Not humble...just how it is with both boxes. The 1AA w/14250 requires a LOT of precise modding to accommodate the components. Practically every square mm of the box and some of the components have to be changed.

With the 2AAA box/10280, the parts slip into place with a fraction of the work.

I don't see why you can't wire them in series. The difference is the reading is taken through metal and metal and metal. How much that affects the reading, if any, would require building both and compare readings. Since the switch isolates each connection it best simulates how I check atomizers so that's the direction I took. But, if moving a switch is an issue; hooking them up in series would be the solution.

Don't know anything about "pouches" and don't do "step up circuits" because electronics is not my forte...not by a long shot. When people talk about circuits it sounds like Klingon to me. lol
 
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