NEW MODDER: Nemesis + Kayfun = Best Option?

Status
Not open for further replies.

BrianBradford

Full Member
Verified Member
Sep 16, 2014
30
8
Los Angeles
I'm new to the mod scene. I been using an ego twist with a nautilus tank for couple weeks now. Now I'm interested in getting a mechanical mod. Here is a list of my planned setup:


  • - HCigar Nemesis Stainless with Magnet Kit
vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-nemesis-mod-stainless/

  • EHPRO KAYFUN LITE PLUS
rtdvapor.com/ehpro-kayfun-lite-plus/

  • 2x AW IMR 18650 3.7v 2000mAh / LG LG IMR 1865
rtdvapor.com/aw-imr-18650-3-7v-2000mah/

  • NITECORE Intellicharger i4


  • Ohms Meter
ebay.com/itm/111444559248?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

  • Kanthal A1 wire 28 Gauge 100 FT (0.61oz) Resistance Resistor AWG A-1
ebay.com/itm/Kanthal-A1-wire-28-Gauge-100-FT-0-61oz-Resistance-Resistor-AWG-A-1-/190991728249?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c77fe7e79

  • TOBECO COIL JIG
rtdvapor.com/tobeco-coil-jig/

  • Sterile Cotton Balls / Cotton Bacon


How does my setup look? Am I missing anything? Any alternative part recommendations? I picked these vendors because from my forum research, they are reputable sellers.

Any recommendation for other sellers with better pricing either online/ebay? I'm not sure which ebay users are reliable because it seems like some people on the forums have experienced fake nemesis?
 
Last edited:

amtseung

Senior Member
Sep 22, 2014
202
85
California
First up, welcome to the world of modding!
There is no clear advantage to having a mech mod over an variable voltage/wattage device unless you plan on joining the cloud-chasing niche. I don't imagine that happening if you plan on running a kayfun. There is nothing wrong with a Kayfun, it just wasn't designed to do clouds, unless you force it to, and then its structural integrity takes a nose dive.
Unlike most people here on ECF, I do not agree with the Nemesis being a beginner-friendly mod. It needs constantly cleaning, particularly around the switch/lockring area, and is an absolute PITA to take apart and reassemble, compared to something like a 4nine or Vanilla mod. The chances of you taking it apart and it never coming back together again is much higher, due to the number of small parts that are somewhat spring-loaded or friction fit.
Honestly, I think a coil jig is highly unnecessary, unless you have very shaky hands. My hands are pretty shaky, probably because of a serious case of jaundice I had at birth (I'm not a doctor and I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it), and I don't have trouble making straight, neat, contact coils. A properly sized precision screwdriver or drill bit will do just fine. I don't like coil jigs, but who knows, maybe you will.
If you're looking into ease of modding and coil building and wicking and experimentation, an RDA might be better suited to your needs. You would have a lot more space to work with, and more flexibility in the kinds of coils you can build, and the resistance of those coils, without suffering a meltdown. Yes, I have melted a kayfun before. It can happen. The only downside is your constant need to drip and would make it a driving hazard.
Please don't get a trustfire charger. Anything battery related with a name that has fire in it spells bad omen. For some reason, the only batteries I've seen to have exploded were either charging in a charger or were manufactured by a company with a name that has fire in it. The Intellicharger i2 is a great place to start and is fairly inexpensive. It charges properly, and you don't need to monitor it as when it reaches max voltage at 4.2V, it stops charging, and periodically trickle charges to keep it always topped up. I have one, and it's great. A search around the forums should give you a good range of good chargers to choose from.

28g a1 kanthal is a good place to start. I'd tell you to start with 24g personally, but that's because I do a lot of dumb things and end up getting away with it :evil: .
Sterile cotton balls are good too. Just remember to wash your hands well before handling them and making wicks, because otherwise they'll taste like .... If they taste like ... with clean hands, you should try boiling the cotton. I've never had to do it, so if anyone else knows how that goes, feel free to chime in.

As for online sellers, Focalecig and Fasttech have the lowest prices as of right now. Do be wary of the Fasttech, despite they're huge stockroom and enormous selection, 99% of it is atrocious. Make sure you give yourself the time to read all the reviews/discussion about all the variations of the product you want to get so you can make the most informed decision you can.

And in my opinion, going from a nautilus to a kayfun isn't that big of an upgrade. If you went from a nautilus to a Magma RDA, Big Dripper RDTA, or an RSST tank-style atty, it's still cheaper than a kayfun and might be more fun in the long run.

I must be repeating myself endlessly by now, and sorry for the wall of text.

Good luck and let us know what you decide on! Always glad to have another tinkerer in the vape scene :)
 

BrianBradford

Full Member
Verified Member
Sep 16, 2014
30
8
Los Angeles
Also, you should be able to get cotton from a drug store, unless you want to look towards something along the lines of Cotton Bacon. It is pre-cut into strips for easier wicking.

Yeah I was planning on using my wife's cotton balls haha Do you think its worth it to buy the cotton bacon? Does it make it significantly easier?



Everything looks good from what I can tell. Only question I have is about the batteries: Why did you pick those particular batteries.

From the batteries sticky, it said IMR hybrid are the best/recommended? I was originally looking at the sony US18650VTC4 , but they are out of stock at RTD.

I would recommend LG IMR 18650 HE2 – 2500 mAh – 20 A - I use several of these and never had any issues. Please note I'm no cloud chaser and the lowest ohm coil I'll ever vape is.4 -.5 - Good luck!
Cool! How come you recommend the LG over the AW? Is based purely off more mAh?

that's exactly what i started with. but i haven't used it in months. HANA./CANA changed my life.

Also i started with an I4 charger

Where do they sell i4 chargers? RTD is out of stock.
 

BrianBradford

Full Member
Verified Member
Sep 16, 2014
30
8
Los Angeles
First up, welcome to the world of modding!
There is no clear advantage to having a mech mod over an variable voltage/wattage device unless you plan on joining the cloud-chasing niche. I don't imagine that happening if you plan on running a kayfun. There is nothing wrong with a Kayfun, it just wasn't designed to do clouds, unless you force it to, and then its structural integrity takes a nose dive.
Unlike most people here on ECF, I do not agree with the Nemesis being a beginner-friendly mod. It needs constantly cleaning, particularly around the switch/lockring area, and is an absolute PITA to take apart and reassemble, compared to something like a 4nine or Vanilla mod. The chances of you taking it apart and it never coming back together again is much higher, due to the number of small parts that are somewhat spring-loaded or friction fit.
Honestly, I think a coil jig is highly unnecessary, unless you have very shaky hands. My hands are pretty shaky, probably because of a serious case of jaundice I had at birth (I'm not a doctor and I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it), and I don't have trouble making straight, neat, contact coils. A properly sized precision screwdriver or drill bit will do just fine. I don't like coil jigs, but who knows, maybe you will.
If you're looking into ease of modding and coil building and wicking and experimentation, an RDA might be better suited to your needs. You would have a lot more space to work with, and more flexibility in the kinds of coils you can build, and the resistance of those coils, without suffering a meltdown. Yes, I have melted a kayfun before. It can happen. The only downside is your constant need to drip and would make it a driving hazard.
Please don't get a trustfire charger. Anything battery related with a name that has fire in it spells bad omen. For some reason, the only batteries I've seen to have exploded were either charging in a charger or were manufactured by a company with a name that has fire in it. The Intellicharger i2 is a great place to start and is fairly inexpensive. It charges properly, and you don't need to monitor it as when it reaches max voltage at 4.2V, it stops charging, and periodically trickle charges to keep it always topped up. I have one, and it's great. A search around the forums should give you a good range of good chargers to choose from.

28g a1 kanthal is a good place to start. I'd tell you to start with 24g personally, but that's because I do a lot of dumb things and end up getting away with it :evil: .
Sterile cotton balls are good too. Just remember to wash your hands well before handling them and making wicks, because otherwise they'll taste like ss. If they taste like ss with clean hands, you should try boiling the cotton. I've never had to do it, so if anyone else knows how that goes, feel free to chime in.

As for online sellers, Focalecig and Fasttech have the lowest prices as of right now. Do be wary of the Fasttech, despite they're huge stockroom and enormous selection, 99% of it is atrocious. Make sure you give yourself the time to read all the reviews/discussion about all the variations of the product you want to get so you can make the most informed decision you can.

And in my opinion, going from a nautilus to a kayfun isn't that big of an upgrade. If you went from a nautilus to a Magma RDA, Big Dripper RDTA, or an RSST tank-style atty, it's still cheaper than a kayfun and might be more fun in the long run.

I must be repeating myself endlessly by now, and sorry for the wall of text.

Good luck and let us know what you decide on! Always glad to have another tinkerer in the vape scene :)

Wow great advice!! Reasoning for my upgrade is for flavor. I tried a friend of a friend mechanicals mod one time and the flavor of the same ejuice I have is so much better tasting on his mod. Im not a cloud chaser.. I'm looking for the best flavor out of my ejuice. I love the CRFT Trail Mix flavor.
 

amtseung

Senior Member
Sep 22, 2014
202
85
California
Wow great advice!! Reasoning for my upgrade is for flavor. I tried a friend of a friend mechanicals mod one time and the flavor of the same ejuice I have is so much better tasting on his mod. Im not a cloud chaser.. I'm looking for the best flavor out of my ejuice. I love the CRFT Trail Mix flavor.

I'm glad to see sensible people here on ECF. Too far and few between. RDA's can give good flavor as well, but it depends entirely on design. A smaller inner chamber volume theoretically gives better flavor delivery, like the Magma, Veritas, 454 Big Block (no, not by chevy), and Plume Veil. I'm not too specific on the science, but it works. I just personally don't like Kayfuns because I can reliably melt the insulators in them with coils that aren't shorting out and meter in at roughly 0.4 ohms.
Different juices have different chemical makeups, which all deliver maximum flavour at different temperatures. Even with two different flavours from my local B&M (they're all homemade in small batches), the lychee flavour likes more heat than the acai flavour.
 

BrianBradford

Full Member
Verified Member
Sep 16, 2014
30
8
Los Angeles
I'm glad to see sensible people here on ECF. Too far and few between. RDA's can give good flavor as well, but it depends entirely on design. A smaller inner chamber volume theoretically gives better flavor delivery, like the Magma, Veritas, 454 Big Block (no, not by chevy), and Plume Veil. I'm not too specific on the science, but it works. I just personally don't like Kayfuns because I can reliably melt the insulators in them with coils that aren't shorting out and meter in at roughly 0.4 ohms.
Different juices have different chemical makeups, which all deliver maximum flavour at different temperatures. Even with two different flavours from my local B&M (they're all homemade in small batches), the lychee flavour likes more heat than the acai flavour.



This might be stupid question, but RDA don't have tanks right? Doesn't that mean it's less portable and I have to constantly rewet the wick?
 

Susan~S

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 12, 2014
16,937
11,693
68
Mpls/St.Paul, MN
Yeah I was planning on using my wife's cotton balls haha Do you think its worth it to buy the cotton bacon? Does it make it significantly easier?

I have never used cotton Bacon, but I have used organic cotton balls, Cellucotton (Rayon), and Japanese cotton (Shiseido and Ko Gen Do). I really like the Japanese cotton. All the fibers run in the same direction, has very little taste and takes up very little space (unlike the Cellucotton).

From the batteries sticky, it said IMR hybrid are the best/recommended? I was originally looking at the sony US18650VTC4 , but they are out of stock at RTD. Cool! How come you recommend the LG over the AW? Is based purely off more mAh?
The LG18650HE2 2500mah 20A -- these are 20A batteries, you can run a lower ohm coil
The AW IMR 18650 2000mah 10Amp -- these are 10A batteries, you can't run as low an ohm coil as the above

Where do they sell i4 chargers? RTD is out of stock.
Check some of the other battery suppliers in my next post. Some other highly recommended chargers are Pila or XTAR.
 
Last edited:

Susan~S

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 12, 2014
16,937
11,693
68
Mpls/St.Paul, MN
For an education on mech mods and rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (our resident battery expert) and visit his blogs. No need to do it right now, but maybe while you are waiting for all your new vape gear. Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding mods and rebuildables are listed below:

BATTERIES

9. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

11. Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries Part 1
* For those who want to learn the differences between IMR, IMR/hybrid, and ICR batteries. What do those numbers and letters on batteries mean? What's an amp rating?

12. Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries Part 2
* Protected vs unprotected batteries - what's the difference? Ohm's Law 101. What is an AW battery? What is an inline fuse? What is stacking batteries?

17. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

14. Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

16. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

MECHANICAL MODS & REBUILDABLES

7. Information Resources for Your First RBA
* An essential read and referrance guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.

15. Inexpensive Mechanical Mod and RDA Setup
* A response to the frequently asked question on how to get into rebuildable atomizers with a mechanical mod inexpensively. Includes a list of commonly used tools and supplies for rebuilding and where to find them.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

How to Spot Fake Sony Batteries
Sony Real vs Fake.jpg

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
 
Last edited:

amtseung

Senior Member
Sep 22, 2014
202
85
California
This might be stupid question, but RDA don't have tanks right? Doesn't that mean it's less portable and I have to constantly rewet the wick?

This is not a stupid question. No question is stupid. :)
RDA stands for Rebuildable Dripping Atomiser. The whole point is to be dripping, great if you're looking to either try lots of flavours or go nuts with a drill press and/or dremel for cloudchasers. I'm one of those cloudchaser nutheads and do this stuff all the time, so I've learned my gear's limits the hard way. It doesn't make it any less portable, as they're smaller in size due to lack of tank, but they're harder to use on the go than something with a tank. I commute on a bicycle (to be exact, a tri bike because I like to push my limits), and don't move very much otherwise, so for me, a dripper is more versatile, and easier to store. I can't exactly vape while dodging traffic on a bike that hates turning either.
However, with the Big Dripper RDTA I mentioned earlier, you get the best of both worlds: ease of building on a dripper deck, with a big tank on top to feed it juice so you don't need manually drip it. Just plunge the drip tip a few times, and your wick is soaked and ready to go again. I also managed to make it work and not leak while lying face-up on the bed, something many tank atomisers can't do :2cool: .
 

Susan~S

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 12, 2014
16,937
11,693
68
Mpls/St.Paul, MN
This might be stupid question, but RDA don't have tanks right? Doesn't that mean it's less portable and I have to constantly rewet the wick?

Correct -- an RDA does not have a tank. There are some RDA's (i.e. Magma and others) that hold much more than a several drops. My Magma holds ~ 1ml (40 drops).

RBA: ReBuildable Atomizer (drippers or tanks)
RDA: Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer (no tank)
RTA: Rebuildable Tank Atomizer
RTDA: Rebuildable Tank Dripping Atomizer -- i.e. Big Dripper & Pontus
BF RDA: Bottom Feeding Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer -- (i.e. a REO)
 

BrianBradford

Full Member
Verified Member
Sep 16, 2014
30
8
Los Angeles
This is not a stupid question. No question is stupid. :)
RDA stands for Rebuildable Dripping Atomiser. The whole point is to be dripping, great if you're looking to either try lots of flavours or go nuts with a drill press and/or dremel for cloudchasers. I'm one of those cloudchaser nutheads and do this stuff all the time, so I've learned my gear's limits the hard way. It doesn't make it any less portable, as they're smaller in size due to lack of tank, but they're harder to use on the go than something with a tank. I commute on a bicycle (to be exact, a tri bike because I like to push my limits), and don't move very much otherwise, so for me, a dripper is more versatile, and easier to store. I can't exactly vape while dodging traffic on a bike that hates turning either.
However, with the Big Dripper RDTA I mentioned earlier, you get the best of both worlds: ease of building on a dripper deck, with a big tank on top to feed it juice so you don't need manually drip it. Just plunge the drip tip a few times, and your wick is soaked and ready to go again. I also managed to make it work and not leak while lying face-up on the bed, something many tank atomisers can't do :2cool: .

Which Big Dripper RDTA clone do you recommend?
 

v1k1ng1001

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 17, 2012
2,373
1,408
Edinburg, TX
The kayfun lite clone from ehpro is a very good buy. I like them because dripping is not convenient for me while moving around all day at work. Pick up a nice RDA clone too. Neither are very difficult to build on.

For batteries, I recommend the Sony VTC 5.

The Nemesis is a fine mod but there are many other choices nowadays. It really depends on what features you want.

For your first mod, I would suggest going with stainless steel--for durability and the fact that you don't have to clean it as often. I have a couple of brass mods and they require constant polishing and they can get really screwed up if you drop them.

I really like the floating center pin on the stingray mods--a stainless steel stingray clone is a good mech for a beginner. I like the recessed switch on the panzer and atomo v2 clones. There are a lot of good choices but read the reviews and discussions carefully.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread