New nemesis

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f1vefour

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Dec 3, 2013
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Subohm is not as big of a worry as a short, and shorts are easy to come by when you first start wrapping and attaching coils.

The three most important things are the batteries amp load capacity, building your coils ohms above the amp load capacity of your batteries (using ohm's law), and always check the atomizers resistance after putting it together to verify no shorts exist.
 

ezbruacy

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Sep 25, 2011
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hey everybody just got everything in, wrapped my first coil came out to 1.3, I have one question! i set everything up but how do i get the button on the bottom of the nemesis to go into safe mode? i used the regular nemesis body and another black tube for the 18490, everythin works great but the bottom button wont turn all the way into safe mode. I tried the bottom nemesis body plus the silver ring then the other black body part and it wont fire because the battery is loose. I'm sure you know what I mean? so im sure i have it all set up right. heres a picture you can notice theres a little gap at the bottom where the button won't screw up all the way

photo.jpg
 

bsoplinger

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Mods, especially clones really need to come with a manual.

You need to use the lock ring to prevent the Nemesis from firing. The smooth silver ring on the bottom of the black tube in your picture. You screw it down until it's pressed against the bottom part of the switch. The switch now can't move, so can't fire. Unscrew as far up the tube as possible to go back to operating mode.

If you use an atomizer that screws further into the top cap, thus moving the screw in the 510 connector further into the tube or a battery of a different length you'll need to adjust the switch for the difference. If, when you screw in the switch until it's tight against the bottom of the battery, the bottom part of the switch screws so far into the tube that it touches the lock ring before it can fire you'll need to adjust the screw in the switch outward so that the length of the switch increases until you can fire the mod. Conversely if the switch sticks so far out of the bottom of the tube when it's tight against the battery you screw the switch down to reduce that distance.

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regal55

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If you get the good nemesis clone with all the different tubes I thinks Its about the best deal going in the mod market. I didn't pay more than $20 for any of the three I bought on ebay (same seller.) Granted it gets expensive if I were to kick all of them. But that's not a must have upgrade. I will say the Fat Daddy ultimate switch upgrade is about mandatory, it comes with replacement contacts and good healthy thick magnets for the switch, no sticking points that can be downright dangerous with the switch upgrade. These nemesis clones have such good quality threading.

Granted you can end up spending as much on one as buying an SVD, but its completely serviceable by you so will last a lifetime and the thing is lighter is weight (mass.) I think these are an unbelievable deal that surely won't last forever. Some ebay dealers cheat by taking tubes and rings out of the box prior to selling so you have to watch for that, shoot me a PM if you want the ebay seller I've had good luck with just understand that a magnetic switch upgrade is mandatory on these.
 

crxess

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I will say the Fat Daddy ultimate switch upgrade is about mandatory, it comes with replacement contacts and good healthy thick magnets for the switch
:blink:

Handy, yes. Mandatory, I think not.
I have 9 Nemesis and no need for the upgrades in any of them.:D
Did all my Magnetic switch upgrades for under $10:)
 

regal55

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:blink:

Handy, yes. Mandatory, I think not.
I have 9 Nemesis and no need for the upgrades in any of them.:D
Did all my Magnetic switch upgrades for under $10:)


Mandatory for the particular clones I bought. The switches it can with would stick, one time shut closed and heated up the battery. They are still a great deal at $18 because they come with all the pieces (a lot of ebay sellers are pilfering extension tubes for kicks.)
 
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