New Ovale eGo-C changeble system.

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Kent C

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I don't do cleaning until I get a harder draw that doesn't go away with just using some vg for cleaning. When I do, I separate the spike plate from the coil unit and put both in 151 Galen's Vodka. The vodka goes from clear to yellow and usually no 'particles' as some have mentioned - it does dissolve the gunk, imo. When done soaking anywhere from 30minutes to a day when I've forgotten or just had other things to do.... The coil pot has some residue but it's loosened and a small Qtip or paper towel folded to a 'tip' cleans it out easily. The wick fluff is always in good condition as is the wick - I check the depth of the wick - just below the diagonal cut and put it back together.

I quit dry burning t's when I blew two during the burn. I'm not against it - I may have overdone it, but for me the vodka works well enough. I've lost one lr atty head on the c's and it went while vaping.
 

wyojoe

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I don't do cleaning until I get a harder draw that doesn't go away with just using some vg for cleaning. When I do, I separate the spike plate from the coil unit and put both in 151 Galen's Vodka. The vodka goes from clear to yellow and usually no 'particles' as some have mentioned - it does dissolve the gunk, imo. When done soaking anywhere from 30minutes to a day when I've forgotten or just had other things to do.... The coil pot has some residue but it's loosened and a small Qtip or paper towel folded to a 'tip' cleans it out easily. The wick fluff is always in good condition as is the wick - I check the depth of the wick - just below the diagonal cut and put it back together.

I quit dry burning t's when I blew two during the burn. I'm not against it - I may have overdone it, but for me the vodka works well enough. I've lost one lr atty head on the c's and it went while vaping.
Good info. You have been at this for a long time so I respect and appreciate your posts. THANKS
 

Kent C

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Good info. You have been at this for a long time so I respect and appreciate your posts. THANKS

Thanks joe. I've tried many things. Not saying this is best - only what I've found to be best with the ejuice and equipment I use.

My idea is use something for human consumption - although I've never drank that vodka ;) and stay away from water unless you're really going to dry thoroughly. I can taste isopropyl and over the long haul the safety specs on it aren't that good, imo. But most people that use that also rinse thoroughly. For me it tended to cling though.
 

wyojoe

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Thanks joe. I've tried many things. Not saying this is best - only what I've found to be best with the ejuice and equipment I use.

My idea is use something for human consumption - although I've never drank that vodka ;) and stay away from water unless you're really going to dry thoroughly. I can taste isopropyl and over the long haul the safety specs on it aren't that good, imo. But most people that use that also rinse thoroughly. For me it tended to cling though.
I kind of feel the same way about isopropyl, and the water I have tried and I agree with you that you need to dry a long time or heat it up to dry it faster because for me the water seemed to short circuit the coil when I dry burned before it was completely dry. I use everclear because that is what people on the ECF was recommending for cleaning carto's. When I run out of everclear I will try vodka and Its cheaper to buy I think.
 

Kent C

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Seeing that they have the type B now available, I'm considering ordering from them. For those of you who have ordered from ovaleusa.com, how was your experience? How quick was shipping?

No problems here. Ship in good time from Fla to Ohio. I get things faster from cignot but they're just a stones throw from Ill. to Ohio :)
 

sammy43

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Seeing that they have the type B now available, I'm considering ordering from them. For those of you who have ordered from ovaleusa.com, how was your experience? How quick was shipping?

Didn't know the B version of the C was available. :2cool:

Ovale was great with service and shipping times. :thumbs: My only complaint with Ovale was that I bought one of the first eGo-C kits back in early November 2011 and did not get the updated/improved C battery. It seems that the batteries that Ovale was distributing with the early C kits were essentially re-branded T batteries. They did not have the charge indicating color changing LED and do not seem much different than my standard eGo batteries I got with my first eGo kit last fall with the exception of the 5-click on/off feature.

The most recent C battery I purchased (from Litecigusa.net) was branded Joyetech and has the color changing LED. It also seems to have a slightly higher voltage (maybe 3.5v vs 3.2v?) and provides a bit more robust vapor and flavor. I also noticed it doesn't heat up as much as my Ovale C battery or the standard eGo batteries. I would double check with Ovale before ordering and ask if they have the newer C batteries with the color changing LED button and the new circuitry. Hope this helps. :)
 

sammy43

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I only see in accessories: "B" Cone + "B" SR Atty's and "B" SR Atty's.. No LR Atty's, No "B" Empty Cartridges.. at OvaleUS.com

Just got an email back from Ovale on the B LR attys for the C. Looks like they are going to be delayed as they are still testing them to get the juice delivery and burn ratios correct. They mentioned they have no release date for the B LR atty yet.

Ovale also answered the question about the C batteries. They still have the re-branded T batteries on the site with the 5 click on/off feature only. The do have the new 650mAh C battery in stock with the 5 click on/off, the color changing charge indicator on the button and the improved circuitry but they are not on the site. They mentioned to request the new battery when ordering by mentioning it in the comment field when you order. :)
 

Boognish

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I wanted to share something I have noticed regarding wicking on the C. Kent C touched on aligning the atty with the tank earlier in this thread affecting how the air flows through the cone in turn changing juice delivery to the atty. I have experimented with this with some ultra thick juice (Boba's Bounty VG) and ultra thin juice (anything from Virgin Vapor) and here is what I have concluded.

6665359057_10a8fa74aa_z.jpg

Notice the tank is flat on the sides. The atty is also shaped the same with flat sides. Looking into the cone, when you tighten it down, you can rotate the atty to increase or decrease airflow around and up through the tank depending on how you align it. This will affect the vacuum inside the tank and increase or decrease juice flow to the atty. Other factors, of course, affect juice flow so this is assuming a clean atty/wick and a wick that is performing as it should.

If you are getting gurgling or leaking with thin juices then the first arrangement on the left might help. If you are getting dry hits or burnt flavors with thicker juices then the second arrangement on the right may help. This is assuming you have the button on the top (or bottom) and the tank aligned as shown.

This has helped me with Kona Coffee Milkshake from Virgin Vapor. It is an ultra thin juice as Annette pre-thins her juices and I was getting gurgling in the atty and even some juice down in the atty base. I set everything up like in the first illustration and the juice delivery slows and stops the gurgling.

This has also helped me with Boba's Bounty. Boba's Bounty from Alien Visions is all VG and is uber thick! I get some dry hits with thick juice sometimes. Set up the C like the second illustration on the right and I get better juice delivery and no dry hits.

Let me know what you think and how this works for other eGo-C owners out there. :)

Thanks for this info. I had no idea. This has been working great for my thicker 100% vg juices
 

wyojoe

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Got a rookie question- in three parts. Was reading in this thread about doing dry burns when cleaning attys.

What's a dry burn?
Why do you do it?
How do you do it?
Dry burning will return the atty to like new. What I do is take the atty out of the cone and with a small screw driver, pry the needle plate off so you can see the coil, then put it back into the cone without the needle plate or tank and hit you battery button for a couple of seconds and do this over and over until you see the coils glow orange quickly after hitting the power button. I then press the needle plate back on and put every thing back together with a newly filled tank and take a few draws with out pressing the power button to prime the wick, then let it set for 5 mins and vape. If it seems like you are getting dry hits, just take a few puffs with out hitting the button and vape again. I wash the needle plate and wick under hot tap water and let it dry for awhile after blowing off as much water as you can. Sometimes by taking the needle plate off, the wick will stick to the coil and pull it out of the needle, and if that happens you can try to put it back in. Sometimes you can and sometimes you can't. Save the coil part if that happens and maybe it you have a coil that is shorted out you can use it with a good needle plate and wick.
 

DangYankee

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Thanks for clearing this up for me.

So I successfully dry-burned one of my coils. Cleaned it up real nice. Needle plate came off real easy; no prob with the wick sticking to te coil. However, I do think the wick may be burnt. Got a burnt taste on this atty and that's why I wanted to try cleaning it. So I soaked the needle plate in everclear and did te dry burn. Still getting the burn taste with it. So I tossed the needle plate but will hold onto the coil.

Tx again.
 

Oneida

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The wick is made of silica and doesn't burn, what happens is that it just gets really gunked up. You can hold it over a stove burner with long tweezers, needle-nosed pliers or similar and burn off the burned on gunk until the wick is all nice and white again. When you do that you'll see a red glow when it gets hot enough but it's not the wick that is burning but the burned on gunk that is burning off.
 

wyojoe

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The wick is made of silica and doesn't burn, what happens is that it just gets really gunked up. You can hold it over a stove burner with long tweezers, needle-nosed pliers or similar and burn off the burned on gunk until the wick is all nice and white again. When you do that you'll see a red glow when it gets hot enough but it's not the wick that is burning but the burned on gunk that is burning off.
Great advice. My wicks are pretty dark at times after washing but not solid gunk on them, and they seem to wick OK. The coils do have solid gunk on them that takes a dry burn to remove. No amount of cleaning or any liquid cleaner or alky or anything I know of will dissolve the gunk on the coils. Maybe the problem that dry hits were because the wick was not primed after cleaning and then taking a few false puffs without hitting the battery button to wet the wick, just a thought. Again thanks for the information about the stove burner and I guess maybe any good flame will work, I will try that next time I clean.
 
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Oneida

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Thanks; I'll try burning the stuff off the wick and see if that helps.

You've probably already thought of this but I will add that after I burn the gunk off the wick, I gently fluff it up with a toothpick and rinse the ash off it, then gently pat it dry with a paper towel or napkin and fluff it up again, and then prime it by dripping 2-3 drops of juice onto the opening on the top of the atomizer spike (that is, do one drop and give it a few seconds to let it wick down, do another drop, etc.). I also make sure to rinse off the coil after I dry burn it.
 
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