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TheBloke

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Just bought the SXK. I also bought the insulators for 5 dollars. Do they have to be inserted into the SXK?


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Do you use temperature control? If not, then definitely not.

If yes, then out of the box my SXK had reasonably stable and low resistance. But for the lowest possible Static Resistance, and therefore most accurate TC, I recommend replacing the positive pin with an M3x16mm brass screw. If that's done, I do believe the insulator would be helpful under the head of the screw.

However my insulators still have not shipped from 3FVape so I don't know for sure yet, and won't for at least another week, maybe more.

I ordered them on Tuesday, along with several other items, and I don't know what's holding up the order. Unfortunately 3F give no information about ETAs for products. I raised a ticket with them on Thursday to ask, but they haven't yet responded. I hope they will tonight, Monday morning their time.

I posted details of the M3 brass screw installation a couple of pages back, so have a read of that to see the principle.

But see how it goes when you get the tank - check the resistance of a TC build and compare that to the expected resistance of that coil, using Steam Engine Wire Wizard. If it seems much higher, and especially if it's fluctuating or you're getting a bad TC vape, you could first try the new insulator and second try replacing the positive screw as I did.
 

auto2012

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Do you use temperature control? If not, then definitely not.

If yes, then out of the box my SXK had reasonably stable and low resistance. But for the lowest possible Static Resistance, and therefore most accurate TC, I recommend replacing the positive pin with an M3x16mm brass screw. If that's done, I do believe the insulator would be helpful under the head of the screw.

However my insulators still have not shipped from 3FVape so I don't know for sure yet, and won't for at least another week, maybe more.

I ordered them on Tuesday, along with several other items, and I don't know what's holding up the order. Unfortunately 3F give no information about ETAs for products. I raised a ticket with them on Thursday to ask, but they haven't yet responded. I hope they will tonight, Monday morning their time.

I posted details of the M3 brass screw installation a couple of pages back, so have a read of that to see the principle.

But see how it goes when you get the tank - check the resistance of a TC build and compare that to the expected resistance of that coil, using Steam Engine Wire Wizard. If it seems much higher, and especially if it's fluctuating or you're getting a bad TC vape, you could first try the new insulator and second try replacing the positive screw as I did.

Thanks for the reply.
I don't want to use TC on Squape. I have never tried it, and probably won't.
If I'll ever use TC it will be in my kayfun.

So the insulators are just a waste of money I guess ? Maybe if u buy the Ivogo I can fix that


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TheBloke

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Thanks for the reply.
I don't want to use TC on Squape. I have never tried it, and probably won't.
If I'll ever use TC it will be in my kayfun.

So the insulators are just a waste of money I guess ? Maybe if u buy the Ivogo I can fix that

Yeah, assuming your SXK is like mine, I can see no need for them if TC is not being used. Even if your resistance is a little higher than it should be it's going to make no noticeable difference for a VW vape. Even 0.1Ω is hardly noticeable for most VW vapes, and easily corrected for by fractionally adjusting the wattage.

A month or so ago someone else got the SXK and reported much worse resistance than I got - albeit with TC. So it can't hurt that you've got them. And yes, if you ever get the Ivogo then it might well make a difference there even for VW vape.
 

auto2012

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Yeah, assuming your SXK is like mine, I can see no need for them if TC is not being used. Even if your resistance is a little higher than it should be it's going to make no noticeable difference for a VW vape. Even 0.1Ω is hardly noticeable for most VW vapes, and easily corrected for by fractionally adjusting the wattage.

A month or so ago someone else got the SXK and reported much worse resistance than I got - albeit with TC. So it can't hurt that you've got them. And yes, if you ever get the Ivogo then it might well make a difference there even for VW vape.

If you change the build deck to the white one from 3f (Delrin) I think that would make a good difference


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auto2012

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Make a difference to what? And the white deck on 3F is meant to be ceramic not Delrin/plastic?

I have one on order, the same order that's still not shipped.

I mean ceramic. Ceramic doesn't conduct electricity and the build decks are coated with I don't know what Chinese crap - I thought it may be better for resistance overall. Don't know if it will make a difference, but I may.


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TheBloke

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The build deck shouldn't change resistance at all. Being non-conductive it's, by definition, not part of the resistance :) A conductive deck certainly would change resistance if the coil was touching it, but not in a good way - it would just short the coil.

The theory is that the ceramic deck might improve flavour, as it's been known to in other tanks.
 

auto2012

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The build deck shouldn't change resistance at all. Being non-conductive it's, by definition, not part of the resistance :) A conductive deck certainly would change resistance if the coil was touching it, but not in a good way - it would just short the coil.

The theory is that the ceramic deck might improve flavour, as it's been known to in other tanks.

Maybe the coated deck is not well coated.


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cindycated

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I mean ceramic. Ceramic doesn't conduct electricity and the build decks are coated with I don't know what Chinese crap - I thought it may be better for resistance overall. Don't know if it will make a difference, but I may.


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I think the coating on the regular decks is just simply the same coating they put on aluminum pots and pans. Anodization? Teflon? The OG "Ematal" might just be a better version of it (in chemistry or application).
 
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auto2012

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I think the coating on the regular decks is just simply the same coating they put on aluminum pots and pans. Anodization? Teflon? The OG "Ematal" might just be a better version of it (in chemistry or application).

Probably. But on ceramic or SS nothing can peel of lol:). Just an idea.


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TheBloke

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Maybe the coated deck is not well coated.

That would still be a boolean situation - either shorting or not. And if it is shorting, it will (greatly) decrease the resistance, not increase it.

The ceramic deck may well have advantages for flavour, and for those worried about what the 'emetal' coating is and/or whether it will last. But I can't see it's relevant to worries over increased static resistance. It either shorts or it doesn't, and if it shorts it will be very obvious.

For what it's worth, the ceramic coating on my China-cloned BF-99 has flaked off to almost nothing. It scratched really easily, and bubbled up with the heat in some places. I still use it though - it's one of my favorite atties. :p

That's a nice looking atomizer!
 
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TheotherSteveS

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Thanks for the reply.
I don't want to use TC on Squape. I have never tried it, and probably won't.
If I'll ever use TC it will be in my kayfun.


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Why on earth would you jump into TC with an atty that is one of the least suited to it??
 
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