New to forum. Ohm setting for mechanical mod?

[dazzed]

Hi finally made a account.

Been using emow for a while and now I'm going to be using mechanical mods for my upgrade.

Been looking around and not sure if I'm getting the answer I'm looking for. I finally got a Kraken Genesis tank for my first build. What ohm should the kraken should be set at? I'm going to be using 28 gauge wires. Seen some on youtube and online looking for certain answer and bit confusing for being my first build. I'm already ordered my ohm meter so what range should it be to be in safe zone without killing myself

I understand the voltage and wattage setting. They're simple enough from the information out there. ohm is still confuses me. It know it's the resistance but can't seem to get the range I should say in.

Thanks for any help

 

[iamthevoice]

Welcome to ECF! Head over to Steam Engine to help you calculate the value you would like to build to. Good luck!

 

[nyiddle]

Welcome to the ECF! Firstly:

I'm going to be using mechanical mods for my upgrade.

Neat!

I understand the voltage and wattage setting.

Wait, huh?

You realize that mechanical mods have no voltage or wattage setting, correct? The nominal voltage of your battery is your voltage setting. You don't choose it, it's just based on how much juice is left in the battery. Additionally, what batteries are you ordering for your mech mod? (And sort of less important, what mod did ya decide on?) Battery choice is THE important factor in determining what is a safe ohm range to build in. Ohms is all a matter of preference, really, but it's also a matter of safety (before preference, ideally).

Just a shot in the dark, but coming from an Emow you'll probably enjoy your Kraken in the .8-2 ohm range. As iamthevoice said, you can use Steam-Engine to help calculate builds/how many wraps/etc. Battery safety is very important though, so before you start building, PLEASE read up all you can.

 

[maltbys25]

That is a very bold tank for you first build so best of luck on that one as far as saftey stay above .4 and you will be fine

Best wishes

 

[nyiddle]

That is a very bold tank for you first build so best of luck on that one as far as saftey stay above .4 and you will be fine

Best wishes

Oh and yeah, I didn't wanna spook ya, but the Kraken is indeed a real challenging device to build on. It's literally the last RTA I'd recommend for a first-timer.

(It's also leaky, but I'll let you figure that out.)

 

[roxynoodle]

The Kraken will be a challenge, no doubt

Build it between 0.4-1.0 ohm and you will be fine.

Yes, please use a good battery in your mech. Sony vtc4 would be ideal. Samsung 25r is fine, too if you stay above 0.4 ohm.

 

[dazzed]

Thanks for the reply guys. Well i gotta start from somewhere and seems like it's a good start to learn. I got panasonic 3400 mah batteries with Tesla V/W Mod. Seems like it's good recommendation.

Hands on will teach me faster than reading about it all over the net.

Will stay at between 0.4 - 1.0 ohm.

thanks again for the info.

 

[nyiddle]

panasonic 3400 mah batteries

NOPE!

Not good batteries. They have a 6.8A limit, which you'll be exceeding with a .4 ohm build. Hell, most builds <1 ohm will exceed that amp limit.

Additionally, the Tesla is a (regulated) VV/VW mod, not a mechanical.

 

[dazzed]

NOPE!
Additionally, the Tesla is a (regulated) VV/VW mod, not a mechanical.

This is I'm already aware before purchasing the tesla. Sorry, I'm still learning the terminologies

Most likely I'll be asking lot of questions when I get all the parts and mess up here and there

 

[nyiddle]

This is I'm already aware before purchasing the tesla. Sorry, I'm still learning the terminologies

Most likely I'll be asking lot of questions when I get all the parts and mess up here and there

Hold up, you left out the important part.

Don't use those batteries. They're not meant for vaping.

Baditude, where are ya buddy? It wasn't that hard to find a relevant quote:

The Panasonic/Orbtronic NCR18650PD or PF 2900mAh battery is the better suited battery for regulated mods. 2900mAh capacity, high drain capability and 10 amps.


The Panasonic/Orbtronic NCR18650B 3400mAh battery is a hybrid battery whose chemistry is heavily weighted to the ICR end of the scale, making it NOT a high drain battery with high internal resistance and with only a 6.8 amp continuous discharge rate. These will work fine in a mechanical mod using factory built coils. They are not the ideal battery for regulated mods, or a mechanical mod using a Kick or Rebuildable Atomizer. These batteries are essentially ICR batteries for all practical purposes, and are best suited for low drain applications such as flashlights.

The reason is regulated mods use PWM (pulse width modulation) to make voltage output higher than 3.7 volts. The voltage that you set your mod to is the "mean voltage", all the while the processor must make pulse currents which can demand up to 9 amps from the battery. What really hurts this battery in high drain applications is its high internal resistance. Higher internal resistance cells will not perform to the level of true high drain batteries and therefore reduce the mod's overall performance when used.

If a battery has a higher internal resistance it will drop more voltage when current is taken out and as a result the regulated mod will indicate it is at end of charge when it could have a significant amount of capacity remaining. What good is this capacity (3400mAh) if it cannot be utilized by the regulated mod? It is of no use, so why use it? There are better batteries available.

This has been explained by the tech engineers of Provape. The Provari uses PWM just like any other regulated mod does. I posed a question to Provape about how a 6 amp IMR battery like the AW 18350 could adequately power the Mini Provari, and they responded back with the following statement:

Question for the tech engineers of Provape

Take from this information what you want. As others here have said, they have been using the Panny 3400mAh batteries with no issues, but theoretically these are not the ideal battery for a regulated mod. For the best performance, the Panny NCR18650PF or PD 2900mAh batteries are the best choice.

 

[this is my name]

What Nyiddle said. If you like your hands and face the way they are, spring for a better battery. 10 bucks will get you a good high drain battery.

 

[Shotglass]

IMO, your first thoughts should be "Which battery won't destroy my face?" not "what's the lowest resistance I can get to for this tank"

Do yourself, and those standing near you, a favor and research some of Baditude's blog entries and posts on battery safety.

Edit: Actually, after re-reading this thread I would suggest that you do some research into more than just batteries. You've picked a difficult atty on which to build for the first time; aren't well versed in ohm's law; aren't familiar with regularly used vaping terminology (which makes me think that you might misunderstand recommendations from other members); aren't familiar with battery safety; and don't plan to ask questions until after you make some, potentially horrible, mistakes:

Most likely I'll be asking lot of questions when I get all the parts and mess up here and there

....all of these things combined have the potential to lead to a trip to the emergency room.

 

[dazzed]

Well said. I'm still researching parts but didn't know batteries had that much of a major role with vaping. I'll do more research of course. All the constructive information from you all are appreciated.

thanks guys

 

[nyiddle]

Well said. I'm still researching parts but didn't know batteries had that much of a major role with vaping. I'll do more research of course. All the constructive information from you all are appreciated.

thanks guys

What you're doing, when you're vaping, is essentially "shorting a battery over a wire in order to heat a glycerin-soaked wick so you can inhale nicotine-rich water vapor." (Forgot who said that, but they're a genius).

For this reason, it is very important that you know what your battery's limitations/capabilities are.

 

[Thrasher]

Sheesh that tank needs no where near the power of .4 ohms.

I run my kraken in single wick mode at .8 plenty of thick tasty vapor, I mean thick, really dense vapor, tastes good too


The tank is super efficient at producing vapor. And high power is not required, its not a megawatt dripper



On second thought your most likely going with microcoils and cotton? Then it probably doesn't matter

 

[dazzed]

Sheesh that tank needs no where near the power of .4 ohms.

I run my kraken in single wick mode at .8 plenty of thick tasty vapor, I mean thick, really dense vapor, tastes good too


The tank is super efficient at producing vapor. And high power is not required, its not a megawatt dripper



On second thought your most likely going with microcoils and cotton? Then it probably doesn't matter

Planning to go with dual coil setup with cotton. That's my current plan but could change later on after further research.

 

[Thrasher]

Yes, ignore my post. I still keep forgetting people are running softwicks in geni's





( witchcraft I tell ya, the fluffy white devil lives,....)

 

[Susan~S]

Since you are new to mech mods and rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditudes Blogs. The blogs that address battery safety, Ohm's Law, CDR (continuous discharge rating/Amps) and how they all work together are detailed below:

BATTERIES

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

MECHANICAL MODS & REBUILDABLES

Information Resources for Your First RBA
* An essential read and reference guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.

Inexpensive Mechanical Mod/RDA Setup
* A response to the frequently asked question on how to get into rebuildable atomizers with a mechanical mod inexpensively. Includes a list of commonly used tools and supplies for rebuilding and where to find them.

 

[93gc40]

Personally I would start with a build very close to what you are using with the Emow. So if you are currently using a 2ohm coil made with 32awg, that is pretty much where you should start.

 

[Baditude]

Since you are new to mech mods and rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery experts) and visit his blogs.

What she said.

Words of advice:

Research, research, research. My blogs should have all the info that you need to stay safe.

The two most important things to remember is to know the continuous amp limit of your battery, and to never exceed that amp limit with what your coil resistance will drain from that battery. Always measure each and every coil you make.

KISS. (keep it simple stupid) Start simple and easy (and safe) until you've got some experience under your belt. Only build a simple micro coil around 1.0 ohm initially. Then after gaining some experience you can try some of the more exotic stuff.