New to Genesis Atomizer

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Chen Yun Mu

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Apr 29, 2013
13
2
Kuala Lumpur
Hi i Just bought a Chi-You Style of Mojo online along with AGI Genesis Atomizer. Ive read through and watched countless of videos on SS mesh wicking but i just cant seems to get it all working. Issues i faced

1. i tried coiling it 3-4 wraps using 0.20mm Kanthal wire
2. its either i get a hot spot or after adjusting i get all wraps glowing evenly and i thought it was working i begin filling my juice
3. after juice is filled it will only glow on the wire between the positive pose and the wick.
4. it will give off sizziling sound but no matter how much i pulse it. it just wont work. i just dont know which part of the process went wrong.

i oxidized it with a cooker as follow and tried adjusting the tightness on the coil and the spacing between each wraps but still not working. please help me someone
 

ImageX

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Dec 26, 2013
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I tried messing around with an AGA T2 and couldn't get it to work properly. Genesis tanks seem WAY finnicky and hardly worth the effort. Seems they would be better displayed in the Museum of Vaping History. Especially with tanks like Kayfuns around. I'm sure I would think differently if I got mine to work properly but I didn't and I think they are poor by design and function.... when compared to other options.
 
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Chen Yun Mu

Full Member
Apr 29, 2013
13
2
Kuala Lumpur
I tried messing around with an AGA T2 and couldn't get it to work properly. Genesis tanks seem WAY finnicky and hardly worth the effort. Seems they would be better displayed in the Museum of Vaping History. Especially with tanks like Kayfuns around. I'm sure I would think differently if I got mine to work properly but I didn't and I think they are poor by design and function.... when compared to other options.


OMG i spent so much money on it and cant even get it to work once. Is there anyway i can salvage this thing. ive been like trying so many times wasted so much mesh, wire and e-juice >< anyone can help me to get it work?
 

Glenn_K

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Sep 29, 2013
994
580
Toronto
Greetings, welcome to the forum. Learning how to do a genesis build is really hard for a lot of people, it took me about 10 tries over two weeks before I started getting good results. But it's totally worth it, the genny gives me an amazing vape -- it was like tasting my e-liquid flavors for the first time.

Have you tried the drill bit method of doing the coil? That's the one that finally worked for me: The DrillBit Method - YouTube

Also, in terms of the hotlegs, make sure the wire isn't too tight between the positive/negative posts and the coil -- I kept getting fatal hotspots until I stopped pulling the wire too tight at the terminals.

Have you tried the pulse method of oxidization? It really works. Once the wick and coil are installed (and I still pre-oxidize my wick), you use short bursts of power to oxidize the mesh-coil contact points further, which gets rid of the remaining shorts: Genesis Atomizer Coil Wrapping For A Newbie! - YouTube

Good luck!

-- Glenn

Hi i Just bought a Chi-You Style of Mojo online along with AGI Genesis Atomizer. Ive read through and watched countless of videos on SS mesh wicking but i just cant seems to get it all working. Issues i faced

1. i tried coiling it 3-4 wraps using 0.20mm Kanthal wire
2. its either i get a hot spot or after adjusting i get all wraps glowing evenly and i thought it was working i begin filling my juice
3. after juice is filled it will only glow on the wire between the positive pose and the wick.
4. it will give off sizziling sound but no matter how much i pulse it. it just wont work. i just dont know which part of the process went wrong.

i oxidized it with a cooker as follow and tried adjusting the tightness on the coil and the spacing between each wraps but still not working. please help me someone

Chen once you have 5 newcomer posts, check out the ECF Rebuildable Atomizers subforum, you're likely to get a lot more help there.
 
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KJRxxx

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Glenn offers good advice.

It took me a good 15-20 builds with the dreaded hot leg on top, until I realized what I was doing wrong. I almost completely gave up with my Genesis attys.

The top of the wire was just pulled too tight against the positive terminal. I gave it a bit of slack and came out OK.
If the coil was not burning quite evenly and was a little hot at the top, I would push on the mesh, sort of sideways, away from the wire, and that would clear everything up.
 

Glenn_K

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Sep 29, 2013
994
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Toronto
I tried messing around with an AGA T2 and couldn't get it to work properly. Genesis tanks seem WAY finnicky and hardly worth the effort. Seems they would be better displayed in the Museum of Vaping History. Especially with tanks like Kayfuns around. I'm sure I would think differently if I got mine to work properly but I didn't and I think they are poor by design and function.... when compared to other options.

Not helpful.

ImageX if you like your Kayfun to the point where it's not worth your while learning how to do a decent genny build, that's cool. But it doesn't mean that gennies are 'museum pieces.'

My genny (Siam Cobra) delivers a lot more flavor and vapor than my KF (the HC clone), and doing a build takes about the same amount of time for both of them at this point (though it was way, way easier learning how to do a KF build).

If the OP wants to try out gennies, give him a fair chance.

-- Glenn
 

Endor

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Jan 31, 2012
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OP,

Genesis atomizers really hard to get the hang of, don't feel bad. It took me many weeks of trial-and-error (and a lot of cussing) to finally get them down.

The reward is an amazing vape... they do work really well, when they are working right.

Some initial suggestions:

1) I have found that larger-diameter wire (smaller number on the gauge) is easier to get right than smaller-diameter. You're using 0.20mm, which is 32gauge, and can be hard to deal with -- it tends to short against the wick really easily. I had much better success when I switched to 28 gauge (0.32mm) wire.

2) Try to keep the distance between the top of the wick and the positive post as small as possible, even if you end up "leaning over" the wick a bit. That will help eliminate the "top hot leg" you describe.

3) Don't coil the wire too tightly on the wick. Keep your coil action smooth with JUST enough tension to keep the wire in contact with the wick.

4) If you've done what I suggest in #2 and #3, but still find that only the top coil/top leg is still glowing when the AGA-T is full of juice, that is an issue with wicking.... you're not getting enough liquid to the top. Try "priming the wick" by putting a few drops directly on it... sometimes that gets the capillary action started. If that doesn't work, this is where you start experimenting with different wick rolling methods. I recall that the AGA-T likes about 60mm length of mesh rolled up with a center hole present.

5) Make sure the bottom of the wick is not touching the bottom of the tank.

Once you get it right, and get a few tanks worth through the wick, the wick will "break in" and form a nice oxidation layer that will make future re-coiling really easy.... My wicks are probably 2-3 months old now, and I can recoil them in 30 seconds with no hotspots at all. But, starting a new wick is a pain in the neck!

Hope this helps...
 

Glenn_K

Super Member
ECF Veteran
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Sep 29, 2013
994
580
Toronto
These are good suggestions, I would add only that if you do use 28 gauge wire, you'll need more than 4 wraps with your coil to stay above sub-oHm territory, which may be a good idea unless your familiar with mech mods and RBAs. With 32 gauge, people generally just do 4 wraps.

-- Glenn

OP,

Genesis atomizers really hard to get the hang of, don't feel bad. It took me many weeks of trial-and-error (and a lot of cussing) to finally get them down.

The reward is an amazing vape... they do work really well, when they are working right.

Some initial suggestions:

1) I have found that larger-diameter wire (smaller number on the gauge) is easier to get right than smaller-diameter. You're using 0.20mm, which is 32gauge, and can be hard to deal with -- it tends to short against the wick really easily. I had much better success when I switched to 28 gauge (0.32mm) wire.

2) Try to keep the distance between the top of the wick and the positive post as small as possible, even if you end up "leaning over" the wick a bit. That will help eliminate the "top hot leg" you describe.

3) Don't coil the wire too tightly on the wick. Keep your coil action smooth with JUST enough tension to keep the wire in contact with the wick.

4) If you've done what I suggest in #2 and #3, but still find that only the top coil/top leg is still glowing when the AGA-T is full of juice, that is an issue with wicking.... you're not getting enough liquid to the top. Try "priming the wick" by putting a few drops directly on it... sometimes that gets the capillary action started. If that doesn't work, this is where you start experimenting with different wick rolling methods. I recall that the AGA-T likes about 60mm length of mesh rolled up with a center hole present.

5) Make sure the bottom of the wick is not touching the bottom of the tank.

Once you get it right, and get a few tanks worth through the wick, the wick will "break in" and form a nice oxidation layer that will make future re-coiling really easy.... My wicks are probably 2-3 months old now, and I can recoil them in 30 seconds with no hotspots at all. But, starting a new wick is a pain in the neck!

Hope this helps...
 

Endor

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 31, 2012
687
2,074
Southern California
These are good suggestions, I would add only that if you do use 28 gauge wire, you'll need more than 4 wraps with your coil to stay above sub-oHm territory, which may be a good idea unless your familiar with mech mods and RBAs. With 32 gauge, people generally just do 4 wraps.

Yes, good point there... sub-ohm safety is important, and need to know what you're doing. Which brings up another point... always resistance check your RBAs with a multimeter/ohm tester BEFORE firing it for the first time, especially when using SS mesh!

FWIW, I typically do 4 wraps with 28awg and that comes out at 0.7-0.8 ohms, but I run it in a mech with high quality, high amperage batteries (e.g. AW IMRs or Panasonic CGR18650CH).
 
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