New to installing coils/wicks etc...... need some help :) Kayfun Mini 3 users please help

[BitterBeerBear]

Hello there fellow vapers.

This is kind of a follow up to this thread-------> Calling all Nauti Mini/Triton Mini/MTL lovers out there...


After some advice from the awesome people of this forum, I decided to buy a Kayfun Mini 3. I bought a clone from fasttech and finally got it in the mail today. I bought a black one. So far, I've loved it... what little I've used it so far anyway. I bought some pre-made coils from Coil Master, as suggested from fellow forumers. They're Kanthal A1 30AWG/1.5ohm. I finally got one on there that I thought would work, although it looks a little ghetto hahaha. At first it wouldn't fire. My mod was telling me "check atomizer". After taking the thing apart a few times it finally started firing, but it seemed like I had to screw the tank into my mod a LOT further and tighter than any tank I've used before. There are these adjustment screws at the bottom of the tank, I'm just not sure quite what I need to do to get it where I don't have to screw it into my mod as far as I am. When I fire it through my mod, I'm getting fluctuating ohm readings. Most of the time it is reading around 1.9-2.4, but then sometimes it will shoot up into the 4-5.5 ohm range.There are a few things I think may be causing this... either my ghetto attempt at attaching one of these premade coils, that adjustment screw, or a bad connection somewhere. I've read about people that have bought this same tank (from fasttech, the painted black clone version of the Kayfun Mini 3) having an issue making contact places where the tank is painted black. The threads at the 510 connector are clean and not painted. They seem like they would make a good contact. Is there some other painted area I should be looking for? Why is the ohms ratings jumping around? Is it because of a bad connection? What's the highest ohms that a setup like this (using a Cool Fire IV @ around 9-10 Watts, the older 40W one with the internal battery)can take and still be safe?


H-E-L-P!!!!! You guys/gals have been so informative, I just know there's someone that can tell me what I'm doing wrong

 

[penstyle]

Nevermind the coil in the pic is diagonal. Does your coil install look similar to this?

 

[penstyle]

If the coil looks good and none of the wire is touching areas where it should not be... You may need to turn this middle screw out a little. Just move it counter clockwise a tiny bit, 1/4 turn or less.

 

[penstyle]

Sometimes the center pin in the mod can be LIGHTLY moved upward ever so slightly with a small flat screwdriver.

 

[Zipslack]

Fluctuating Ohms sounds like the center block may not be snug enough. If you unscrew the 510 post at the bottom, you can take the bottom plate off. You'll see a low-profile hex nut. Make sure it's tight...you want to make sure the center block doesn't shift when you do it. Unbend a paper clip and put the legs in the openings on either side before you tighten to help hold the block centered.

If that isn't it, you may have a coil leg not trapped under the screw tightly.

 

[BitterBeerBear]

Hmm.... I think it might be the CFIV now. I'll try later tonight to move that center connector like you showed me. My coil look like yours and I've had that center screw in every position it could possibly go in haha. The center block is nice and snug.

After the g/f got home, I tried the tank on a mod of hers....It worked fine. Even on the LCD screen it was reading a constant 1.8 volts with no fluctuations.

 

[BitterBeerBear]

I can't get the center post of the mod to come up any further. It won't seem to rotate at all. It's still spring loaded... that part works. It just won't come up any further. All my other tanks work with it, just not this one.

It seems to work fine in my gf's mod though. I just don't wanna carry around her purple tube mod

 

[daviedog]

Alternating ohms is a sign of insecure coil attachment.
The 510 screw on the atty must be secure, unscrewing it gives access to the tiny a/f screw.
Unfortunately 510 depth on a mod or length on an atty is Not standardized. Preferred fix is on the Mod.
Close juice flow when filling,,2 full turns open to keep wick moist.
I prefer to my over engineered V4..

 

[BrotherBob]

Sounds like a already mentioned pin problem. Could check:


"no Atomiser"

 

[bwh79]

You may need to turn this middle screw out a little. Just move it counter clockwise a tiny bit, 1/4 turn or less.

Sorry I can't help with your actual issue, but I would like to mention that the KFM3 does not have an adjustable 510 screw, it needs to be screwed in tight to make proper contact. And the CoolFire IV has a spring-loaded positive pin, so trying ot pry it up like shown in the videos above is likely to do more harm than good.

 

[bwh79]

There are these adjustment screws at the bottom of the tank,

The 510 contact pin screws out, behind that is the airflow adjustment screw that you can set to your preference. Then you put the 510 contact screw back in and screw it all the way in tight so it makes contact with the airflow screw. The 510 screw will protrude more or less depending on where you have the airflow adjustment screw set, but it needs to be screwed in as far as it will go, however far that happens to be.

 

[DingerCPA]

When I see my ohms fluctuating, it's a poor contact on the posts. You may have a loose leg or a broken leg. What kind of wire is the coil? Can you pull the wick and do a dryburn? You should get an even glow across the coil, starting from the center. If it glows irregularly, you don't have good contact. You might need to just replace the coil.

Remember, when mounting the coil, it's best to bring the leg in on the left side of the screw, then, when you tighten it, the screw will catch and "pull" it.

I'm left-handed, and I have to remember to wrap my coils "right-handed" for my KF V3 Minis so I can get the legs to set in the right direction....

 

[BitterBeerBear]

Update:

I put on another coil and I wrapped the coil legs on the left side of the screw this time. For some reason I wrapped it around the right side the first time (I should know better than this, but I forget things ). It's the best coil ever installed ha-ha! It does and looks every way that it should. The wick is perfect.

And........... the same thing happened. It would fire on one mod just fine, but on my CFIV it would read random ohms. So I messed around with that center post and I finally got it to come up a little bit. Or so it seemed. It still didn't seem to make a difference.

I'm rather convinced that it's somehow the center pin on my CoolFire IV. I don't know quite what to do to fix that.

Thank all of you very much for the help. It's been greatly appreciated!

 

[daviedog]

In the market for a new mod?

 

[djsvapour]

In the market for a new mod?

Don't mind if I do.

 

[penstyle]

Well, on the bright side it sounds like you are learning. I hear the Coolfire has a spring loaded pin so there will be nothing more you can do. Best to leave it be and put a tank on there it likes. Enjoy.

 

[BitterBeerBear]

In the market for a new mod?

I might just be! I've been looking at different mods the last couple of days. There are some really decently priced ones out there, I would just be scared of the same kind of problem happening now with anything new.

Well, on the bright side it sounds like you are learning. I hear the Coolfire has a spring loaded pin so there will be nothing more you can do. Best to leave it be and put a tank on there it likes. Enjoy.

I am learning, it's fun lol. I love my Coolfire... but the way that you say it... are there mods that have an adjustable center pin? If so, that sounds like I may need one.

 

[daviedog]

Yes,,some folks are nervous using the jeweler screwdriver. You only have to 'pinch' it up a millimeter or so.
I thought spring loaded would be the end but gorillas can push the whole assembly out of reach.
A few years ago adjustable pins (flathead) were plentiful.
My IPV d2 has one that i just used this afternoon, Orchid v4 was a bit short..

 

[penstyle]

As far as I know newer mods are spring loaded. It is not clear to me whether a new mod or new tank is the answer to this particular problem. Either could have a tolerance issue. Otherwise, sometimes 2 items just do not play well together.

I have 2 old Innokins, one spring loaded the other is not. They still work well. If it were me I would not worry about it. You have a great excuse to go out and buy more gear. There are several good mods with decent power available for cheap.

I have purchased several mods that I'm just not thrilled with. Nothing wrong with them. Just a personal thing, like the button is weird, menu sucks, too heavy, color, slippery, too small, too big. For those reasons it would be difficult for "me" to recommend something.

Before you know it you will have an excess of gear like most of us. Enjoy.

 

[BitterBeerBear]

Update:

@penstyle sent me a link to this: Kepler 510 Finned Heat Sink for Atomizers

...which gave me the idea to try a couple of 510 adapters that I had forgot that I even had. It worked! At least now I know what actually happened and why it was happening!

Thanks @penstyle and thank you everyone else! I have learned so much from you guys/gals.