Basically I got a steal of a deal and picked up a Hades clone with a smart charger and 2 batteries for around 50$. I upgraded the battery to a MNKE 26650 3500 mAh 60 amps. Basically, What is a safe ohming point and what kind of coil build should I use. I've been at .20 for now but I've had people on different forums telling me NOT to do that. Can someone help me out and tell me what I'm doing wrong?
New to Mods, new to sub ohming.
- Thread starter CassidyCaravans
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New to mods and sub ohm builds eh? And you built a .20 build on your rda? I sure hope you don't "blow yo'self up" at or the least melt the insulation on the pos post of your rda. Most of us took the time to learn battery safety and progressed to sub ohm builds. That just isn't something you jump right into blindly and still be safe with.
Oh well, you are in the right place to learn. Welcome to ECF.
Oh well, you are in the right place to learn. Welcome to ECF.
So um, I know all of this, what exactly should I do and what Ohms should I vape at?
How much voltage does 26650 batteries put out at a full charge? I've never used those batteries so its unknown territory for me. A 60A limit on the battery does seem like you have much headroom to work with so I don't think .2 is that bad. But if anything you can us vapecalc.com to enter in either your resistance and wattage or your resistance and voltage to find out how much amps its putting out.
Brand Name: MNKE
Size: 26650
Type: Li-Mn (High Drain)
Rated Capacity: 3500mAh
Nominal Voltage: 3.7V
Peak Voltage: 4.2V
Rechargeable: Yes
Protected: No
Chemistry: Lithium manganese Dioxide (Li-Mn02)
Style: Flat Top
Color: Orange
Maximum Continuous Discharging Current: 20 A
Maximum Pulse Discharging Current: 60 A
Maximum Continuous Charging Current: 6.5 A
Learn how to safely build without hot spots and shorts. Learn what the amp drain is for each build by using a Steam Engine Ohms Law Calculator:
Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
Basically everything you need to learn is in that link also.
Basically If I did it right it's telling me to use 1.2 Ohms. Does that sound about right? I mean, how dangerous would it be if i maybe moved to .6-.8?
Amps= volts÷resistance
Assuming 4.2v÷ .2ohms = 21 amps
Afaik the MNKE 26650 3500mAh are 30A and not 60A but could be wrong since I don't use them.
Even at that I think they are only rated at 20A continues.
Again I could be wrong because I working off memory.
Again assuming 4.2v ÷ .5ohms = 8.5 amps much safer amp draw and less likely to blow your face off when first starting out learning.
Assuming 4.2v÷ .2ohms = 21 amps
Afaik the MNKE 26650 3500mAh are 30A and not 60A but could be wrong since I don't use them.
Even at that I think they are only rated at 20A continues.
Again I could be wrong because I working off memory.
Again assuming 4.2v ÷ .5ohms = 8.5 amps much safer amp draw and less likely to blow your face off when first starting out learning.
Unless you're chasing huge clouds there's really no reason to build that low unless you're trying to win cloud competitions or for personal amusement. I build my atomic at about .7 to .8 ohms and run it on my Vapor Flask at approximately 25 to 27 watts. I get great flavor and good cloud production. When you build that low you're creating a lot of heat that will break down the flavors as it cooks the eliquid.
If you just want to enjoy flavor and decent clouds, get yourself some 28 guage and an ohm tester. Practice building coils in that .6 to .9 range, go above, go below and find the sweet spot where you can enjoy the liquid you vape.
If you just want to enjoy flavor and decent clouds, get yourself some 28 guage and an ohm tester. Practice building coils in that .6 to .9 range, go above, go below and find the sweet spot where you can enjoy the liquid you vape.
You know, you actually taught me something. I will definitely build better coils to be safer. I knew it wasn't safe but didn't fully understand.
So it's a 20amp battery then. Common caution on the forum uses the continuous discharging current as a marker, not the maximum. Plus most like to say a 10-20% safety margin.
Based on that, I would feel comfortable with about .4 and above - but that is not to say it's always going to be safe. Remember that whatever you are using to measure the resistance will only show a best guess depending on its accuracy. The lower you go, the more important even .05 can be.
.4 may appear conservative to some (and yes, there is a lot of margin in my calculations). Find a good ohms law calculator online and put in some numbers and play with it, learn it and understand it. Then you can make the decision as to where you feel safe.
So I suppose the best question would be why are you going to .2, what are you finding there that you can't get at .4 or .5 ohms?
I'm a huge fan of 24 guage so I'm sticking to that. I will definitely go higher ohms though. Right now I'm just using glycerin unflavored since I don't like none of the flavors of the week at my local vape shops
The replies are coming in fast. Basically like I said, my friends apparently don't know .... and they reccomended me to use 0.02!! He said he hated when people didn't know how to use mods correctly.... I have definitely learned A LOT in the 30 minute's i've been here and will most likely go up to 0.6-0.8.
Yeah..
God, I feel like at least once a day I have to explain this to someone. It's getting tiring, I should really just prepare a copy-pastable blurb.
First of all, use Steam Engine to find out if you're going over the amp limit of your batteries. Secondly, read this: Some people have touted it as being heavy-handed (or a "scare tactic"), but you should be a little spooked knowing about potential dangers of sub-ohming. If you don't have one already, get an ohm reader or stop what you're doing immediately. Learn about batteries, find the lowest safest voltage that you can drain your battery to (and learn to realize when your battery is getting low). There's a lot of other good resources available on ECF, but don't believe every jamoke you see. I've seen some horrid misinformation being spread here (granted, they usually get chewed out/corrected).
Good luck, welcome to ECF.
Look at the maximum Continuous discharge rating... 20A!!!!
Using ohms law.... you are exceeding the max.... you're at 21 amps.
In my opinion.... you shouldn't exceed 15 amps. That would be .28 ohms.
Learn ohms law and how it relates to vaping.
The one thing I like about 28 gauge is that it's really pliable yet sturdy enough to not pop a coil when I pulse it or dry burn it and I run about 10 wraps to hit .7 - .8 ohms. It covers more wick so you're not cooking just a small section.
So at full voltage of 4.2v, at 0.2Ω, that's 21A, or 88W.
That's definitely a lower ohm build, but that battery can handle it no problem.
Personally, I never go below 0.2Ω. I just don't see the point. Once you get down to 0.1Ω and lower, you are getting pretty damn close to dead shorting the battery, and that is something I cannot recommend to anyone. The simple fact is you don't need to go that low to get big clouds.
My favourite build these days is 24g kanthal on 3/32", 6 wraps, dual coil. Comes out around 0.3Ω. On my plume veil, it's an amazing vape.
I think people get way too freaked out by the whole sub-ohming thing. There are hundreds and hundreds of hobbies that are WAY more dangerous than sub-ohming. Snowboarding or electric bikes, for example. The ebikes I play with have battery packs with hundreds of these cells. At a point a fuse is useless because there's so much amperage it'll vaporize your connectors before the fuse gets a chance to blow. Short it out with your hand and you might be missing a finger.
Fixed-gear bicycles are more dangerous. Anything to do with cars is more dangerous. Etching circuit boards is more dangerous. Welding is more dangerous. Building model airplanes is more dangerous.
If you think about it, anything that's any fun at all has some inherent danger to it. At some point it's time to take off the bubble wrap and see what life has to offer
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That's definitely a lower ohm build, but that battery can handle it no problem.
Personally, I never go below 0.2Ω. I just don't see the point. Once you get down to 0.1Ω and lower, you are getting pretty damn close to dead shorting the battery, and that is something I cannot recommend to anyone. The simple fact is you don't need to go that low to get big clouds.
My favourite build these days is 24g kanthal on 3/32", 6 wraps, dual coil. Comes out around 0.3Ω. On my plume veil, it's an amazing vape.
I think people get way too freaked out by the whole sub-ohming thing. There are hundreds and hundreds of hobbies that are WAY more dangerous than sub-ohming. Snowboarding or electric bikes, for example. The ebikes I play with have battery packs with hundreds of these cells. At a point a fuse is useless because there's so much amperage it'll vaporize your connectors before the fuse gets a chance to blow. Short it out with your hand and you might be missing a finger.
Fixed-gear bicycles are more dangerous. Anything to do with cars is more dangerous. Etching circuit boards is more dangerous. Welding is more dangerous. Building model airplanes is more dangerous.
If you think about it, anything that's any fun at all has some inherent danger to it. At some point it's time to take off the bubble wrap and see what life has to offer
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