New to Mods, new to sub ohming.

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CassidyCaravans

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So at full voltage of 4.2v, at 0.2Ω, that's 21A, or 88W.

That's definitely a lower ohm build, but that battery can handle it no problem.

Personally, I never go below 0.2Ω. I just don't see the point. Once you get down to 0.1Ω and lower, you are getting pretty damn close to dead shorting the battery, and that is something I cannot recommend to anyone. The simple fact is you don't need to go that low to get big clouds.

My favourite build these days is 24g kanthal on 3/32", 6 wraps, dual coil. Comes out around 0.3Ω. On my plume veil, it's an amazing vape.

I think people get way too freaked out by the whole sub-ohming thing. There are hundreds and hundreds of hobbies that are WAY more dangerous than sub-ohming. Snowboarding or electric bikes, for example. The ebikes I play with have battery packs with hundreds of these cells. At a point a fuse is useless because there's so much amperage it'll vaporize your connectors before the fuse gets a chance to blow. Short it out with your hand and you might be missing a finger.

Fixed-gear bicycles are more dangerous. Anything to do with cars is more dangerous. Etching circuit boards is more dangerous. Welding is more dangerous. Building model airplanes is more dangerous.

If you think about it, anything that's any fun at all has some inherent danger to it. At some point it's time to take off the bubble wrap and see what life has to offer :).

This battery can handle it. But honestly, ive probably been really put off to going very low. I might stick with 0.5 Or something. I also use 24g Kanthal and will have to try a different build. I'm at 6 wraps, dual coil at .2
 

Equilibrium

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So at full voltage of 4.2v, at 0.2Ω, that's 21A, or 88W.

That's definitely a lower ohm build, but that battery can handle it no problem.

Personally, I never go below 0.2Ω. I just don't see the point. Once you get down to 0.1Ω and lower, you are getting pretty damn close to dead shorting the battery, and that is something I cannot recommend to anyone. The simple fact is you don't need to go that low to get big clouds.

My favourite build these days is 24g kanthal on 3/32", 6 wraps, dual coil. Comes out around 0.3Ω. On my plume veil, it's an amazing vape.

I think people get way too freaked out by the whole sub-ohming thing. There are hundreds and hundreds of hobbies that are WAY more dangerous than sub-ohming. Snowboarding or electric bikes, for example. The ebikes I play with have battery packs with hundreds of these cells. At a point a fuse is useless because there's so much amperage it'll vaporize your connectors before the fuse gets a chance to blow. Short it out with your hand and you might be missing a finger.

Fixed-gear bicycles are more dangerous. Anything to do with cars is more dangerous. Etching circuit boards is more dangerous. Welding is more dangerous. Building model airplanes is more dangerous.

If you think about it, anything that's any fun at all has some inherent danger to it. At some point it's time to take off the bubble wrap and see what life has to offer :).

This battery can handle it. But honestly, ive probably been really put off to going very low. I might stick with 0.5 Or something. I also use 24g Kanthal and will have to try a different build. I'm at 6 wraps, dual coil at .2


I'm not sure how you can say "this battery can handle it"...?? You are exceeding the maximum discharge rating for the battery!! Forget about the 60 amp pulse rating. That number is meaningless. Define the pulse duration. It's not given so you can't.
 

ronnbert

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Like most everyone is saying, stay above the continuous amp rating. I have gone down to .212 but I am heading back the other way and have been enjoying my .45 ohm build. This is on a 30A (continuous) battery and even the .212 was well within my 10% safety net. I enjoy the higher build and love the fact I get almost twice the battery life off of it in comparision.

As long as you vape safely, do it how you see fit. Whether you use an eGo battery with cartos, MVP with nautilus, or even a Mech with a dripper, as long as you are safe and off the cancer sticks I say congrats!
 

rdnallday

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Oct 23, 2014
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New to vaping and new to sub ohming. You are very courageous, please be careful. There's a lot to know about battery safety when going super low, and lost of crazy accidents that happen all the time. I can blow massive clouds on my mephisto with a 1.5 ohm single coil when I want to. Wattage, juice, airflow are critical elements.
 

ProjektMayhem

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Yeah..

God, I feel like at least once a day I have to explain this to someone. It's getting tiring, I should really just prepare a copy-pastable blurb.

First of all, use Steam Engine to find out if you're going over the amp limit of your batteries. Secondly, read this: Some people have touted it as being heavy-handed (or a "scare tactic"), but you should be a little spooked knowing about potential dangers of sub-ohming. If you don't have one already, get an ohm reader or stop what you're doing immediately. Learn about batteries, find the lowest safest voltage that you can drain your battery to (and learn to realize when your battery is getting low). There's a lot of other good resources available on ECF, but don't believe every jamoke you see. I've seen some horrid misinformation being spread here (granted, they usually get chewed out/corrected).

Good luck, welcome to ECF.

This^^ I found out all this information on my own. I don't get how people just go out and buy this stuff without researching what the hell they're doing.
 

WeirdWillie

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Personally I feel that sticking a high drain battery in a metal tube with a near direct short load up to your face without knowing what you are doing, and not doing due diligence research before hand, ranks right up there with playing Russian roulette dangerous.
Yeah it's kinda cool to blow massive clouds , but not very cool if it blows up in your face.

I'm into vaping for vaping, to get off cigarettes, and have found a gerat much healthier alternative.
And I know there is a whole other subculture out there that just wana blow clouds because they think its cool.
Now I don't have a problem with that, I don't understand it, but don't have a problem with it.
What I do have a problem with is when someone gets hurt vaping and brings more unnecessary negative publicity to the community, because someone sold an uneducated newbie a potential pipe bomb without teaching do's and don't and safe practices.

Whatever you do whatever your motives are always err on the side of caution and safety,
YOU DO NOT have to super subohm or even subohm to have a satisfying vape or blow great clouds.
 

dchemist

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Basically I got a steal of a deal and picked up a Hades clone with a smart charger and 2 batteries for around 50$. I upgraded the battery to a MNKE 26650 3500 mAh 60 amps. Basically, What is a safe ohming point and what kind of coil build should I use. I've been at .20 for now but I've had people on different forums telling me NOT to do that. Can someone help me out and tell me what I'm doing wrong?
So I read the entire thread and you got EXCELLENT advice about battery safety. Unless I missed it somewhere, you didn't say what RBA you were using. This really would make a big difference in what you should build.
 

MamaTried

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I'm not sure how you can say "this battery can handle it"...?? You are exceeding the maximum discharge rating for the battery!! Forget about the 60 amp pulse rating. That number is meaningless. Define the pulse duration. It's not given so you can't.

^This. the pulse rating is a marketing ploy. i doubt there is much science behind it.
 

Susan~S

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Members here are giving you some great advise!

I'll leave you with some links that address many of these topics. If you are new to mech mods and rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (our resident battery expert) and visit his blogs.

You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader (if you don't already have one) and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries. Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding mods and rebuildables are listed below:

BATTERIES

9. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

11. Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries Part 1
* For those who want to learn the differences between IMR, IMR/hybrid, and ICR batteries. What do those numbers and letters on batteries mean? What's an amp rating?

12. Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries Part 2
* Protected vs unprotected batteries - what's the difference? Ohm's Law 101. What is an AW battery? What is an inline fuse? What is stacking batteries?

17. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

14. Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

16. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

MECHANICAL MODS & REBUILDABLES

7. Information Resources for Your First RBA
* An essential read and reference guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.

15. Inexpensive Mechanical Mod and RDA Setup
* A response to the frequently asked question on how to get into rebuildable atomizers with a mechanical mod inexpensively. Includes a list of commonly used tools and supplies for rebuilding and where to find them.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

How to Spot Fake Sony Batteries

Sony Real vs Fake.jpg

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
 

Cullin Kin

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^This. the pulse rating is a marketing ploy. i doubt there is much science behind it.

The pulse rating just needs to be put to rest. We are talking fractions of a second. Electronics, when turned on, sometimes spike in the current they draw and this was the original intention of the 'pulse limit' from my understanding. As I said, this occurs over a minute fraction of a second and should never be the measurement used to judge the resistance to be used when taking 3-7 second draws (estimate).
 

TomGeorge

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Sub ohming can be done safely, generally not by a new vaper tho. you received alot of good advice ans I hope to take it seriously (I think you will because it looks like you generally game here to learn, YAY!)

I would suggest watching a bunch of youtube tonight on ohms law, battery safety, coilbuilding and wicking. Vape safe and have fun!

Dont forget to teach your friends once you read up on everything!!
 

Sirius

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HAHAHA I was just going to say we got through 35 posts with out, "exploded batteries", or "can of worms", or "vape blast"!! but alas I was wrong...:p

Hey I aim to please. Ya just can't have a discussion on battery safety without a reference to Vape Blast..Lmao :lol:
 

ronnbert

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The pulse rating just needs to be put to rest. We are talking fractions of a second. Electronics, when turned on, sometimes spike in the current they draw and this was the original intention of the 'pulse limit' from my understanding. As I said, this occurs over a minute fraction of a second and should never be the measurement used to judge the resistance to be used when taking 3-7 second draws (estimate).
3-7 seconds? I usually draw anywhere from 10-15 seconds on my current build. I have always had long draws andconsistently maxed out my 10 second cutoff on my MVP until I trained myself to stop at 9.5 seconds.
 

Cullin Kin

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3-7 seconds? I usually draw anywhere from 10-15 seconds on my current build. I have always had long draws andconsistently maxed out my 10 second cutoff on my MVP until I trained myself to stop at 9.5 seconds.

3-7 seconds is just me man, not representative of the population at all. I do have a 0.24 build on a mech though and anything longer than 7 seconds is too much vapor for my lungs to handle lol. In your case though, what I said rings even more true.
 

ronnbert

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3-7 seconds is just me man, not representative of the population at all. I do have a 0.24 build on a mech though and anything longer than 7 seconds is too much vapor for my lungs to handle lol. In your case though, what I said rings even more true.

Oh I wasn't dissing or insulting at all. Also, I agree completely about the pulse rating being totally irrevelant to our vaping needs.

I was running down to a .212 build on mine, even on a long draw, but have moved back up to a .45 build and I am enjoying it. Plus battery life has improved quite a bit! Happy vaping, and see ya on the picture thread, haven't been by in a while so need to check up on it!
 

VHRB2014

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The replies are coming in fast. Basically like I said, my friends apparently don't know .... and they reccomended me to use 0.02!! He said he hated when people didn't know how to use mods correctly.... I have definitely learned A LOT in the 30 minute's i've been here and will most likely go up to 0.6-0.8.

My recommendation to you is always keep ten feet between you and your friend, :blink:
 
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