Thanks guys this really helps clear things up! I do have some questions about the parts of the mod like
1)what is a 510 connection? and Center pin?
2)And different contacts? Brass/silver contact whats the difference?
3)Also is there any safety i should know when using a rba and the battery since there is nothing between the atty and the battery?
4)Any suggestions on mods/rba (I like tanks)? (I'm a cloud chaser)
1a. Most mods these days will have a 510 connection. This is where you screw on the atmomizer or cartomizer. The names and numbers go back over the years as different types and standards competed. Today the 510 is the most common and widely supported standard.
Here's a chart showing adapters for converting various connections. For our purposes see the top of each image...and the first number.
1b. If you look at the different connection types above, you'll notice they each have a center piece that is somehow isolated from an outer rim. Generally the negative signal is the outside, and the positive signal is in the center.
Mods with 'adjustable center pins allow you to make sure there is a solid contact in the event that some carto or atty you purchase has its center pin proturding too far, or not far enough. An adjustable pin can also allow more control in how the atty-carto will sit on the device.
Just as an example...with the Nemisis style pictured in an earlier post, you'd most likely loosen the 'center pin' first, screw your atty/carto/tank down flush with the mod, and then tighten the center pin with your fingers to make a solid contact.
In contrast, imagine a mod that does not have an adjustable or spring loaded center pin. All you could do is screw the atty finger tight and hope it makes good contact. It might not flush mount...or in some cases it might not make good contact at all.
Most 510 connections on mods or eCigs will at least have a little floating pin inside silicon or rubber...so they can usually be lifted out a bit with a small screw-driver if they happen to get shoved down too far over time. As an example, it's pretty common for someone to use something like a ProTank for a while, and then decide to screw on something else...an IGO-W as an example, and find that the IGO for some reason isn't making contact! The problem here would be that the ProTank had a little longer center pin contact and compressed the connection; thus, the IGO turned up a little too short! The fix in this case would be to lift that center pin in the mod a bit with a small tool so it can work with the IGO. Guess what happens when you go back to using the ProTank for a while? Yep....it pushes it back down again!
When it comes to nice mechanical mods...they almost always have custom made 510 connections with an adjustable center pin. You'll find all sorts of designs for it. The most common will probably be a screw of some sort that can be adjusted with your fingers, a hex-wrench, or a small screw driver.
2. Different contact materials are usually intended to help cut down on voltage drop. This is of concern mainly for people who want to rig up multiple coil atomizers with extremely low resistances (which will drain the battery at high amperages). Unless you're going to be making some pretty 'extreme' builds...this shouldn't make a huge difference with most mechanical mod designs (tubes).
3. Yes.
Always check your atty for shorts before putting it on the mod. A good multi-meter can be used for this.
Become familiar with Ohms Law. This is how you calculate the power of your atomizer and the drain it will cause on your battery. Here's a nice web application for a number of things vaping related.
http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp
Make sure your build does not draw more amperage than your battery can support. Only use trusted IMR high drain batteries. Here are just a few examples of batteries that are recommended for mechs these days. Notice, these batteries are rated at 20 amps and above.
AW IMR 18650 3.7v 1600mAh
Sony US18650VTC5 2600mAh 30amp
Sony US18650VTC4
MNKE IMR 18650
Efest IMR 18650 2500mAh 35amp
Efest IMR 18650 1600mAh Button Top
If you'll be using a Kick or Crown, or do not intend to go sub-Ohm, some of the 10amp high capacity Hybrid cell batteries are nice to have as well. Just as an example:
Panasonic High Drain NCR18650PF Hybrid 2900mAh Flat Top
Get a good charger with lots of safety features! Avoid the cheap ones...as you'll be using it pretty much every day. Set up a safe area for your charging station (as fire proof as possible, with good ventilation, etc.), and don't leave the house while batteries are charging.
Here's a good
Blog by Baditude about batteries.
Get in a habit of changing your batteries before they get below 3 - 3.5 volts. Draining them too far can damage the batteries!
4. On battery tubes...I like the Nemisis style. There are quite a few designs that are 'similar' in terms of functional design (Chi-You, King, StingRay, and many more). These all use bottom fire buttons and you select your battery length by adding/removing rings. Most of these also feature adjustable air flow of some sort.
KayFun style tanks are a great place to start. Good flavor profile, good performance, easy to build.
For one of these I'd recommend picking up AWG 28 Kanthal wire, and some surgical grade cotton from your local pharmacist (usually comes in rolls...found in the bandage department...a roll will last a life-time).
