New to nickel builds, No flavor...burnt coil??

Status
Not open for further replies.

LuNar

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 10, 2014
237
89
Hays KS
Hi there. So I'm new to building with nickel wire and In my new morph tank rba I have a single coil spaced nickel build. 0.16 ohms, 3mm id, ni200 28g.

1.Put the build on my rba section.
2. Put cotton through it, kinda loose so there is almost no resistence when I pull it through the coil.
3. Primed the coil with juice, filled tank, put it on my sigelei 75w tc.
4. Switched to TEMP, 420 deg f, 40 watts
4. Set the res before firing it-0.16 ohms.
5. Took a rip and wow no flavor and occasionally the cotton got dry.
6. Took the rba section out and made a little space between the cotton and the barrel, so that when you look down at the coil you can see a small amount of light through the juice channel. Did this on both juice channels.
7. Put it back in, changed temp to 550 def f, produced decent vapor but the taste was almost non existent. It taste like cotton, or the gloves that dentists use. After a few puffs, cotton went dry again.

I'm not sure what the problem is, but it looks like my coil is burnt. I'm using 50/50 liquid, my cotton is koh gen doh, I'm taking it all apart to clean it and try another build. Any clues as to why it's just not working well?

eiwmjp.jpg
258pefc.jpg
2v26ou9.jpg
nf1p94.jpg
 

LuNar

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 10, 2014
237
89
Hays KS
I don't know, but I'm following so I can read what the experts say. I am about to build my first ni coil too. But I use drippers, so it will likely be different for me. Very good looking coil tho !
I thought it was a decent looking coil too. But somewhere along the lines I did something wrong lol. I have a tugboat i'd like to do a nickel build in but I'll wait till I got my morph tank hitting like I want it to.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Steelgirl

LuNar

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 10, 2014
237
89
Hays KS
Well I tried again. Did 10 wraps with my ni200. Spaced coil... This time I made sure my leads were in their securely. Used much less cotton. Tasted just like a glove and then, pretty sure the chamber got flooded and I tasted the eliquid. Almost no vapor at 380 deg f and 22 watts, same tasteless flavor. Bumped it up to 420 deg and 30 watts, same thing but more vapor. Now at 550 deg f and 38 watts. Same, more vapor, still no flavor. FFS what am I doing wrong??
 

LuNar

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 10, 2014
237
89
Hays KS
So I got a lemo drop v1 and a ipv mini v1. Got a 1.6 ohm 26g kanthal contact coil in it. At 22.5 watts it's amazing. Flavor and vapor are great. On this morph tank with it's rba section and a 0.22 res nickel build, spaced coil at any temp and any watts it's just tasteless. Even with the airflow almost closed off all the way just no taste. Great vapor yeah but what's the point if I cant taste the blueberry? It taste kinda like some kind of chalky tasteless pill medicine thing.

I'm going to try one more frigg'in time. I'm going to use more cotton and seriously take my time making the perfect coil and try different amounts of cotton.
Feeling pretty let down right now, I don't know if this tank just completely mutes all flavor or if it's just my build.
 

LuNar

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 10, 2014
237
89
Hays KS
Put a 1.6 ohm contact kanthal build in it, made the same one I have in my lemo v1. Tastes great and good vapor production. So my problem has to be either a bad connection somewhere or I am using wrong the amount of cotton for this nickel build... Might even be that I set the res at the wrong time. My build was on the cold side when I set the res, I've had that ac on all day lol.

Some feed back would be much appreciated.
 

Nomoreash

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2010
3,261
931
Chattanooga, TN
I've never used the morph tank but the deck looks much like the Kayfun which I've had success with nickel builds in. I'd try more cotton and maybe using 1 less wrap if your ohms will allow it. I try to keep my wraps at 10 or under and yours looks like 11. It looks like your coil is riding a little high so I'd also try lowering it a little closer to the air hole.

If you're still getting no flavor try taking some primer puffs in between draws. If that works it would would likely indicate feeding issue with the tank.
 

LuNar

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 10, 2014
237
89
Hays KS
I've never used the morph tank but the deck looks much like the Kayfun which I've had success with nickel builds in. I'd try more cotton and maybe using 1 less wrap if your ohms will allow it. I try to keep my wraps at 10 or under and yours looks like 11. It looks like your coil is riding a little high so I'd also try lowering it a little closer to the air hole.

If you're still getting no flavor try taking some primer puffs in between draws. If that works it would would likely indicate feeding issue with the tank.
Ya I'm probably going to attempt more nickel builds this weekend. I got some nickel atlantis coils coming as well. Hopefully some pre built coils will work much better than my builds lol.

I hear everyone praising how great the flavor is from nickel but so far I get superior flavor from kanthal with my lemo drop. I'm stuck on getting a good nickel tc vape just to see for myself.

This weekend ill be trying all kinds of builds again. My tugboat rda's coils are old and gunked i'll probably build a single coil in there and see how that goes.... I have a kanthal build in this morph tank but It's wide bore drip tip really mutes the flavor. I've used some other thinner drip tips, like my lemo drop drip tip, and the flavor comes though a little more but I think this tank is really built for much higher wattages since it's airflow is insane. I heard the delta 2 has good coils that can be ran at 50+watts so Maybe I'll get some of them and try them out.

Thanks for the building feed back, it's exactly what I need.
 

Nikea Tiber

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 21, 2015
466
566
42
28g ni is pretty big for an rba. That being said, your coil looks fine.
Your wick should have some resistance when you pull it through the coil. It sounds like you aren't using enough wick (make your strip/roll wider).
On a TC mod if your juice feed isn't up to snuff your coil will heat extremely rapidly and hit temp control mode because there isn't enough juice vaporization to keep the coil cool.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LuNar

LuNar

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 10, 2014
237
89
Hays KS
28g ni is pretty big for an rba. That being said, your coil looks fine.
Your wick should have some resistance when you pull it through the coil. It sounds like you aren't using enough wick (make your strip/roll wider).
On a TC mod if your juice feed isn't up to snuff your coil will heat extremely rapidly and hit temp control mode because there isn't enough juice vaporization to keep the coil cool.
Yeah it must have been the wicking. I made a kanthal build 1.6 ohms and I stuffed it with cotton after reading your post. Worked pretty good.
 

LuNar

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 10, 2014
237
89
Hays KS
So I tried making a single coil nickel build in my tugboat v2... Looks like my positive post screw will not capture my lead all the way down. I put my coil build in there and screwed as far down as it would go but.. the coil moved when I was trying to clip the leads off. If it can't capture the lead 100% then my nickel build just wont be right.

I have to go looking for a slightly longer screw now. Yay.

Got some atlantis ni200 bvc coil heads. I put one in my morph tank and it works amazing. At 500 def f 50 joules it works very very well. A nice warm vape with a good amount of flavor I'm pretty happy.
 

TonyB66

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 7, 2014
109
90
London, UK
Your Ni coil in your pictures has too many wraps and it's too far from the air hole. I only build to the width of the block and don't have any overhanging coils that go over the juice deck. The rba parts for these sub ohm tanks are a bit small tbh. Try to keep your wick away from the barrel that you screw on, you certainly don't want it shoved hard against it, unless it has giant holes in the barrel like the atomiser coils you buy.

There's a fine line to getting wicking right with Ni wire. You need enough for a small amount of resistance when you insert the cotton but not too much that it restricts the juice from getting through. Having said that you don't want to much cotton sitting on your deck. Search for the .... Kicker video's on YouTube and you will see how he actually combs out the wick to make sure there are no compressed parts of the wick and how he very carefully trims the wick so it just brushes the deck. I've been using his method I a Kayfun 4 and it works. If your tank has massive airflow that's why your flavour isn't right along with the coil being to high.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: LuNar

Nikea Tiber

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 21, 2015
466
566
42
So I tried making a single coil nickel build in my tugboat v2... Looks like my positive post screw will not capture my lead all the way down. I put my coil build in there and screwed as far down as it would go but.. the coil moved when I was trying to clip the leads off. If it can't capture the lead 100% then my nickel build just wont be right.

I have to go looking for a slightly longer screw now. Yay.

Got some atlantis ni200 bvc coil heads. I put one in my morph tank and it works amazing. At 500 def f 50 joules it works very very well. A nice warm vape with a good amount of flavor I'm pretty happy.

There are a few solutions to the post hole screw problem. The first is if you have button head post screws just use them to trap the coil leg instead of using the post holes. Typically it is an electrically better connection this way, anyhow.
If you have grub screws you can pull some kanthal wire through the hole and trap your leg under that, or even sandwich it between two pieces of kanthal to avoid your screw amputating it.
I believe mcmasters-carr carries all sorts of grub screws, you just need to know which size is appropriate for your RDA/RTA.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LuNar

LuNar

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 10, 2014
237
89
Hays KS
There are a few solutions to the post hole screw problem. The first is if you have button head post screws just use them to trap the coil leg instead of using the post holes. Typically it is an electrically better connection this way, anyhow.
If you have grub screws you can pull some kanthal wire through the hole and trap your leg under that, or even sandwich it between two pieces of kanthal to avoid your screw amputating it.
I believe mcmasters-carr carries all sorts of grub screws, you just need to know which size is appropriate for your RDA/RTA.
THANK YOU! :D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread