New to RBA/RDA..checking resistance

[MulishaMan187]

Ok, so I'm new to the rebuildables and mech mods, but experienced with multimeters. I know how to check ohms on my rda, but I'm wondering if I can check it when it's screwed onto the mod to see if there is a short from tightening the 510 before firing. This question stems from a Reddit thread where someone is swearing by the $10-$20 atomizer ohm meters over a digital multimeter. While connected to the mod with batteries in would it even be able to find a short if checking from the post in the rda, or would it need to go from the post to the negative terminal of the battery which would then complete the circuit and cause the coil to fire and maybe damage the meter IIRC. Or is the likelihood of a short from normal tightening of the atty onto the mod not somthing to be concerned about? Basically when new to RBA/RDA, will a multimeter be fine for everything I'll need to know or should an atomizer ohm meter be on my must buy list?

Here is the link to the reddit thread this question stemmed from.

http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_...are_new_to_rebuilding_this_is_a_great/cezsnfk

 

[MamaTried]

multimeters are just fine

 

[ZeroOhms]

for me, shorts were more common after the build. coils touching the top cap or moved too close to the post after putting the cotton in. so, having the resistance tester with 510 connector was handy for that. i personally use VV/VW with resistance checker first before putting the topper on the mech mod. this allows me to test the fully assembled topper with liquid in it.
also, even after a successful build, short can happen while using the atty. if the atty doesn't fire on the mech, first thing i do is to put it on the VV/VW.

 

[Ryedan]

I always check my builds with a digital multimeter (DMM). I wanted that for the voltmeter capability anyway and never bought a atty ohms tester afterwards. Yes, I like to check ohms after putting the RDA on the mod, just because the 510 connection of the mod is in the picture then and I can check that at the same time. You never know, there have been cases of the plastic insulator in the mod's 510 connection shorting. Just be careful to lock out the mod if it's a bottom switch device so you don't turn it on by mistake while measuring.

 

[dice57]

I like the box style atomizer ohm meters. Great for checking your ohms, more accurate than the regulated mod ohm checker, and makes for a decent stand while mounting and wicking the build. Also have noted that the ohms do change a bit from when first measured, to pulsing them and setting them and once wicked. So find it helpful to know what it is once totally mounted. tested and set up. Also have found that the ohms will drop, once heated up, by several hundredths of an ohm, which can be critical when doing ultra sub ohm builds, and the battery one chooses. A .05 drop in ohms could be the difference between a great vape and 911.

 

[Tinkiegrrl]

If I get into rebuilding, I have four devices that'll check resistance while screwed in to a 510 connection. Two MVP 2'a and two VV v3's. For any newbies reading this, even if you aren't planning on building coils, you should invest in an ohm meter, multimeter, or device with ohm reader built in at some point. The ohm readers in our devices have been essential to check stock Kanger coils, as they tend to be all over the place and not at the resistance advertised. My mother in law's devices needs a low resistance coil or she doesn't get a good hit. I buy her 1.8, but have found that those often read in higher then that. Some up to 2.2. I check ohms before installing them into her mini protank. So, for safety and for quality control issues at factories and of course, personal preference for hits, please get an ohm reader, or multimeter, or both.

 

[cope]

a mulitmeter is a must and i have a atty ohm tester as well it also tests the volts when a device is attached its cool for testing the battery on a mech test and test again and again .....get the point....safty first vape last

 

[mrharvey34]

This may be a dumb question but how do you know what watts or volts to run your atty at with the ohms?


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[DrillRX]

This may be a dumb question but how do you know what watts or volts to run your atty at with the ohms?


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You must be speaking for a VV type device. With a mechanical device there is no choice on voltage, and the wattage is a result of the ohms your coil is built to. With a VV device it is subject to the type of atty you are running. Things like the type and efficiency of the wicks, whether its an RBA or RDA, or a beginner type topper, like a Vivi Nova, Protank, CE4, etc….

After you figure all that out, it's pretty much a matter of preference. There is somewhat of a guide, but generally higher ohms will be better for higher voltage settings. You might have to experiment with your own setup to get that "sweet spot" between "not enough vape" and that burned taste. If you are using a VV device with, say a 1.8 ohm coil, you might start out low, around 3 volts and slowly bump up throughout the day until you hit your sweet spot.

IMHO

 

[Peepaw]

I like the box style atomizer ohm meters. Great for checking your ohms, more accurate than the regulated mod ohm checker, and makes for a decent stand while mounting and wicking the build. Also have noted that the ohms do change a bit from when first measured, to pulsing them and setting them and once wicked. So find it helpful to know what it is once totally mounted. tested and set up. Also have found that the ohms will drop, once heated up, by several hundredths of an ohm, which can be critical when doing ultra sub ohm builds, and the battery one chooses. A .05 drop in ohms could be the difference between a great vape and 911.

I've got a Fluke but I can see having one of the little box styles. If for nothing else something to hold the rba while being worked on.