New to RTA some questions-

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morningdew

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thinking of buying a kayfun Lite.

Now I don't want to start making my own coils, instead buy prebuilt and wick them myself.

The following look like options...

First off what look like really well made coils, not cheap, what is the difference between the two in following links?

Signature Kanthal Coils 28 AWG - Signature Coils - Signatures

Signature Nano Dragon Coils - Signature Coils - Signatures

I can see the coils in second link have spacing between the wraps....how does this impact on the Vape...also they don't actually list the ohms for the coils on the second link - cannot understand that?


Then as a cheaper option, but seemingly trustworthy, I came across these...they would need some tweaking, I guess, to make the legs opposing rather than parallel...is this easy/possible to sort for the kayfun?

Pack of 50 pre-built Kanthal coils - Creme de Vape

Am thinking that

a. This would require something to wrap the coil around, to turn current start of leg at each end into a new wrap and then a new leg and...

b. This would add an extra two wraps to the equation and therefore increase the resistance?


When buying cotton or rayon or silica for wicking, would I be right in thinking I have to take into account the diameter in mm of the coil, in other words if the coil says 3 mm - I need to buy my wicking material at 3 mm also?

Wicking material, what is best for the kayfun lite or is this simply a preference?

Do please bear with me, I am gradually reading up and trying to get my head round all,the basics before any purchase...that is for answers and patience!

And while I am here I think I need...

- a kayfun lite
- coils
- wicking material
- ohms reader
- tool to poke wick down towards juice channels once wicked
- some sort of wire or other cutter to trim legs once attached to posts...or can the wire be snapped by hand?
- small Phillips screwdriver for posts and fill and airflow..or does one come with the kayfun?
- tweezers
- anything else except a mod and some e juice!

Thanks...
 

morningdew

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Oh and one more for starters...I am a mtl man...but have heard the kayfun lutes draw is 'tight'... Can anyone compare how tight at the kayfun fully open airflow to any of all of the following..

- nautilis mini or full Nautilis at widest airflow setting
- gs air m or gs tank at fullest setting
- kanger subtank nano at middle setting

No way of testing one and any of above comparisons would greatLy help my decision making...
 

Two_Bears

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Oh and one more for starters...I am a mtl man...but have heard the kayfun lutes draw is 'tight'... Can anyone compare how tight at the kayfun fully open airflow to any of all of the following..

- nautilis mini or full Nautilis at widest airflow setting
- gs air m or gs tank at fullest setting
- kanger subtank nano at middle setting

No way of testing one and any of above comparisons would greatLy help my decision making...

Have used Kayfuns Nautilus Mini and the Subtank Nano.

The Kayfun is tight much like a cigarette.

The Nautilus Mini at the largest airflow may be a bit airier than a Kayfun.

Subtank Nano is way too airy for MTL, and not airy enough for a full lung hit.

Both the Nautilus Mini a d subtask Nano are tanks. They use premade coils.

The Kayfun is a Rebuildable Tank Atomizer RTA. Meaning you wrap your own coils and wick them with cotton, Dacron, hemp wick or silica wick.

I prefer RTAs because you can build the coil to the resistance you want to get the best flavor out of your ejuice. I prefer a window of resistances of .8-1 ohm. To Mr thus gives great flavor without burning the juicd.
 

MattyTny

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Building the actual coil is much easier than mounting it on the deck, so if you want to get into a rebuild atomizer just know that.

The first link of coils seems like the better option, but at only two per order you could buy 28g kanthal and make much more. If you mess up while trying to mount it then you can just make another.

I would also make sure to look up a kayfun coil and wicking guide or thread with pictures. Wicking cab be the most challenging part.

The draw on the kayfun lite is tight and very good for mouth to lung use.
 
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Cait Sith

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Yeah your much better off just wrapping your own coils. Like Matty said, the installing of the coil and wicking is harder than the actual wrapping of the coil. With the prebuilt coils you'll still have to install and wick anyway so you might as well save a ton of money and wrap your own. You could mess up a hundred of them while your learning to build and it would only cost you like a dollar. You'll learn to wrap them in no time, just takes a little practice and you'll be building like a pro!

Sent from my Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk
 

Two_Bears

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Yeah your much better off just wrapping your own coils. Like Matty said, the installing of the coil and wicking is harder than the actual wrapping of the coil. With the prebuilt coils you'll still have to install and wick anyway so you might as well save a ton of money and wrap your own. You could mess up a hundred of them while your learning to build and it would only cost you like a dollar. You'll learn to wrap them in no time, just takes a little practice and you'll be building like a pro!

Sent from my Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk

Agree completely. Who knows maybe the building bug will bite them and find building is an expression of their creativity. I ABSOLUTELY LOVE building.
 

Nimaz

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I just got the Kayfun Lite Plus V2 1:1 clone from Fastech as a RTA starter. I got a coil master in the meantime, which makes perfect coils, Kanthal wires,Ti wires of different gauges from Unkamen for TC. Nail clippers are great to cut the wires. After several tests, I selected Rayon for wick over organic cotton or Japanese cotton. I use my mod as resistance reader. The higher is the gauge the more wraps you can add without having your resistance out of scale. Tight coils allows to fit more wraps than spaced coils on the upper deck. I found the legs of Kanthal coils relatively easy to wrap around the screws to secure the coil but much harder with the Ti coils. I got my fingers around it though.
 

morningdew

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All makes sense. Only thing is, by buying prebuilt coils to begin with, that is one part of the process I need not learn about for now. So sure it may be easier, but a good prebuilt coil allows me to focus on installing the coil and wicking...both of which actually I am not 100% on yet.

There's also the heating of coil before wrapping...been reading I need a flame torch for this?

Think I may start with prebuilt coils and then move on...
 

Nimaz

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All makes sense. Only thing is, by buying prebuilt coils to begin with, that is one part of the process I need not learn about for now. So sure it may be easier, but a good prebuilt coil allows me to focus on installing the coil and wicking...both of which actually I am not 100% on yet.

There's also the heating of coil before wrapping...been reading I need a flame torch for this?

Think I may start with prebuilt coils and then move on...

Whatever you feel comfortable with is a good decision. You'll learn along the way as I still do and make changes progressively, one step after another. The trigger for me has been to gather what I need to be able to vape independently, knowledgeably, for the longest time as possible without relying on ordering stuff too often, like coils or juices. This is what took me to RTA and DIY in the first place.
 

Two_Bears

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All makes sense. Only thing is, by buying prebuilt coils to begin with, that is one part of the process I need not learn about for now. So sure it may be easier, but a good prebuilt coil allows me to focus on installing the coil and wicking...both of which actually I am not 100% on yet.

There's also the heating of coil before wrapping...been reading I need a flame torch for this?

Think I may start with prebuilt coils and then move on...

NEVER dry burn Nickel, and not so sure about titanium. Nickel oxide is dangerous.

Dry burning the Stainless and Kanthal works great. But you don't need a torch.

I dry burn my coils with my mod.

The reason to dry burn Kanthal is to stop the Kanthal from acting like a spring and get the coils close together so it heats evenly instead of hot spots.
 

Two_Bears

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Whatever you feel comfortable with is a good decision. You'll learn along the way as I still do and make changes progressively, one step after another. The trigger for me has been to gather what I need to be able to vape independently, knowledgeably, for the longest time as possible without relying on ordering stuff too often, like coils or juices. This is what took me to RTA and DIY in the first place.

I DIY because of two reasons.

1. I enjoy it.
2. If the Govt does something stupid I havr made them irrelevant .
 
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Kevin littell

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Making the coils is the easiest part of the whole rebuild....


And 12 dollars worth of wire will last you 3 or 4 YEARS.


I use the kayfun because I got tired of replaceable out of the box being bad.


I have also re-wicked my Lite V2 sitting in rush hour traffic. THATS how easy it is.


Also, the best vape I get out of mine is an open coil NOT a micro-coil.


So, I think you should buy a jig and some 28 ga Kanthal and watch some YOUTUBE video's.It really is that easy.
 

Two_Bears

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Making the coils is the easiest part of the whole rebuild....


And 12 dollars worth of wire will last you 3 or 4 YEARS.


I use the kayfun because I got tired of replaceable out of the box being bad.


I have also re-wicked my Lite V2 sitting in rush hour traffic. THATS how easy it is.


Also, the best vape I get out of mine is an open coil NOT a micro-coil.


So, I think you should buy a jig and some 28 ga Kanthal and watch some YOUTUBE video's.It really is that easy.

I can wrap a coil with Kanthal and dry burning it to burn the gunk off I havr had coils last three months. Rewicking 2-3 times a week with organic cotton balls I can rock s Kayfun of Goblin Mini (single coil,) for three months and my total cost for three months I'd only about 15 cents.
 

morningdew

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Thanks all...

It was pbsuardom in the kayfun lite/Russian video who Tory ed the kanthal pre wrapping and hence my question...is this not necessary then and a bit of dry burn in mod does the job instead?

Looking to rebuildables to enable vaping range of net juices I love. With prebuilts I get less than 2 mls and have to vodka soak the coil, can use coils again. It it is a pain swapping coils and cleaning tanks so regularly.

Regarding prebuilt coils and rinse, vodka soak, rinse again. Ought I prime these with vg after final rinse, they can sit in box for weeks before I reuse...? Currently I just rinse and let dry!

Two more reasons to rebuild...flavoir and avoid any future clampdown regulations...nice!

Still I will try some of those prebuilt coils and buy a jig and roll of kanthal.

Reckon I need

- ohms reader
- ceramic pliers
- coil jig
- Phillips screwdrivers precision
- nail clippers
- kanthal 28 gauge to start
- wicking material cotton bacon to start with

Re. Open coils isn't it more difficult to get even spacing with an open coil?
 

Two_Bears

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Indeed, I am having the best vape ever since I switched to RTA and DIY. Although, I feel a bit like a weirdo time to time...

I absolutely LOVE vaping RTAs, at one point I was disgusted with tanks for lack of flavor and went to drippers.

I got the Goblin Mini and the flavor from my little Goblin blows the doors off most of the drippers I had used.

Of the Dripping Atomizers I tried only the Darang had better flavor than my GMini. The short attys Freakshow Mini and Rogue (both super short attys 19 mm for Freakshow Mini and 18 mm for the Rogue) had about the same flavor of the GMini.

The measurements for the Freakshow and Rogue was not counting drip tip and 510 pin
 

Two_Bears

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It was pbsuardom in the kayfun lite/Russian video who Tory ed the kanthal pre wrapping and hence my question...is this not necessary then and a bit of dry burn in mod does the job instead?

I never use a torch. I screw the base on my mod and fire a few seconds till the coil glows. Release firr button and use my pliers to.pudh the wraps together in a micro coil. If you get ceramic tweezers you can squeeze the coil while dry burning it.

less than 2 mls and have to vodka soak the coil, can use coils again. It it is a pain swapping coils and cleaning tanks so regularly

I don't do that. When I put the coil on the base I leave the coil on until the coil fsils 3 months later. I gently remove the dirty wick and toss it. Dry burn the gunk off the coils. Install s nee wick fill my RTA and back to rocking in two or three minutes. Rip Trippers showed fty burning vs coil. Releasing the firing button and running cold water over the hot coil. I never run water over my coils. Never needed to do that.

wo more reasons to rebuild...flavoir and avoid any future clampdown regulations...nice!

You got it!

Still I will try some of those prebuilt coils and buy a jig and roll of kanthal.

Reckon I need

- ohms reader
- ceramic pliers
- coil jig
- Phillips screwdrivers precision
- nail clippers
- kanthal 28 gauge to start

I say yes to all of that except 28 gauge Kanthal.

I prefer 26 gauge. For three reasons.

1.28 gauge has higher resistance than 26 if you want to build low.

2. 26 gauge is stronger than 28 and you are less likely to damage the coil by gently removing the wick and installing a new wick.

3. 28 gsuge is fine for Ksyfub Kayfun and RDAs where you trap the leads under the screw heads. If the RDA or RTA has post holes the sharp corners will cut 28 gauge before you get the screws tight. But wl not cut 26 gsuge unless you REALLY torque it down.

wicking material cotton bacon to start with

Would recommend orgsnic cotton or Dacron. I use organic cotton balls from the drug store.

e. Open coils isn't it more difficult to get even spacing with an open coil?

that is easier than making micro coils. Get a screw at the hardware store of rsid the box of odds and ends for a screw. Wrap the Kanthal in the space between the threads and voila a perfectly spaced coil. While they coil is still on the screw install the coil in your RTA or RBA. Unscrew the screw out of the coil and you have a perfectly spaced coil ready to wick and use.
 
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