New To Vaping. Already having technical Issues!!!

[Damaurian]

Earlier today I purchased a Vision Spinner 2, with a pro tank 3. I enjoyed it for an hour or two before the battery lost it's factor charge. I placed the batter on the charger and it was fine. I let it charge for a little over an hour, only because I was eager to vape and Im new to this. I pressed the button five times, the spinner 2 did not fire but instead the light turned on a steady orange and will not go off, even after a few hours of charging. Also, the charger LED was green but after I placed it back on the charger the LED is now green although the battery is certainly not fully charged.

 

[Jason George Alexander]

the green light with occasional red flash on the charger means it's charging , the light on the spinner will change from orange to blue to white and finally off once charged to 100% If you have the 1600mah version, it can take 5-6 hours to charge from complete discharge.

 

[Damaurian]

Oh so it's normal to have an orange steady orange light even if the spinner is not connected to the charger? Shouldn't I be able to get a pull out of it even if it's not fully charged. It's not even responding to pressing the button 5 times. Just a steady orange light, which means there is juice in the battery and I should be able to fire it.

 

[AndriaD]

Oh so it's normal to have an orange steady orange light even if the spinner is not connected to the charger? Shouldn't I be able to get a pull out of it even if it's not fully charged. It's not even responding to pressing the button 5 times. Just a steady orange light, which means there is juice in the battery and I should be able to fire it.

it won't fire if the charge is below a certain point -- it's a safety feature. It won't let itself be fully discharged.

Andria

 

[Jason George Alexander]

A steady orange light while off the charger without holding down the button doesn't sound normal, no. Is your protank on the battery while the orange light is on? Check to see if the button is stuck and check the 510 pin (top threads+pin) for liquid.

 

[Damaurian]

A steady orange light while off the charger without holding down the button doesn't sound normal, no. Is your protank on the battery while the orange light is on? Check to see if the button is stuck and check the 510 pin (top threads+pin) for liquid.

t

Now that you mention it....I did make a rookie mistake and accidentally unscrew the coil from the tank instead of the tank from the spinner. But that was after the orange light issue began to occur. I don't think the button is stuck because it still clicks. Hmmmm...Yeah the orange light is on while the protank is threaded to the battery.

 

[Spencer87]

try giving it a full charge... see if that fixes it... either that, or you gotta put it away and wait for it to discharge by the light, and then re charge.

with those, without passthrough, best to have a couple.... get another cheap ego battery or something. or an additional of the one you have.....

the worst though, is when you have two, and both run out of battery at the same time

 

[Rickajho]

t

Now that you mention it....I did make a rookie mistake and accidentally unscrew the coil from the tank instead of the tank from the spinner. But that was after the orange light issue began to occur. I don't think the button is stuck because it still clicks. Hmmmm...Yeah the orange light is on while the protank is threaded to the battery.

With it in the "constant on" fire button condition: What happens if you put your tank on the battery? Does if fire continuously or not at all? If it's firing all the time then it sounds like liquid got inside the battery - probably in around the fire button - shorting the fire button.

 

[Jason George Alexander]

hmmm, strange. Maybe a full charge will clear it up.

 

[Damaurian]

There's no change between on the charger, off the charger with or w/o the tank. The orange light remains on. It will not vape Maybe liquid did get to the button. Any suggestions for fixing that?

 

[rurwin]

No User Serviceable Parts Inside.

Is it actually firing? If you put the Protank on it, does it vape? I think you said it didn't. In which case it isn't stuck on.
My guess would be that it booted up insane due to the battery voltage drooping when you tried to fire it when it was only marginally charged. Leave it to discharge until the light goes out, and then leave it maybe as long again before giving it a full charge. Do that carefully, checking its temperature frequently, and don't leave it unattended.

If that fixes it then it's all good. If it doesn't, send it back for a replacement.

 

[Damaurian]

No User Serviceable Parts Inside.

Is it actually firing? If you put the Protank on it, does it vape? I think you said it didn't. In which case it isn't stuck on.
My guess would be that it booted up insane due to the battery voltage drooping when you tried to fire it when it was only marginally charged. Leave it to discharge until the light goes out, and then leave it maybe as long again before giving it a full charge. Do that carefully, checking its temperature frequently, and don't leave it unattended.

If that fixes it then it's all good. If it doesn't, send it back for a replacement.

Thank you for that reply. I was thinking that was the main issue. It all started when I tried to fire it when it had such a low charge. Big thanks to everyone else as well for all the replies. I won't let this misstep stop me from continuing to vape. I gotta kick the ciggarette habit.

 

[Damaurian]

....And the problems continue.

I took that Spinner 2 back to the shop. They were eager to replace it, with a new one straight out of the box. Cut to three hours later and I go to take a hit, button light goes out, it short-circuits and keeps firing even though I wasn't depressing the button and POOF! Toxic smelling smoke comes from under the button. I guess it's fried? Should I just try and use the scratch off code and get a new one shipped to me straight from vision?

 

[AndriaD]

....And the problems continue.

I took that Spinner 2 back to the shop. They were eager to replace it, with a new one straight out of the box. Cut to three hours later and I go to take a hit, button light goes out, it short-circuits and keeps firing even though I wasn't depressing the button and POOF! Toxic smelling smoke comes from under the button. I guess it's fried? Should I just try and use the scratch off code and get a new one shipped to me straight from vision?

Could do that I guess.. or just take it as an object-lesson that the pen styles are really not very reliable. It's hard to get much of a battery in that small a form-factor.

Andria

 

[inspects]

Damaurian,

You may think about buying a little iStick 20 watt, they're about the same price as a spinner I think, and last MUCH longer.

Or splurge...perhaps an iStick 30 watt, I think they are about 35-40 bucks.

 

[AndriaD]

Damaurian,

You may think about buying a little iStick 20 watt, they're about the same price as a spinner I think, and last MUCH longer.

Or splurge...perhaps an iStick 30 watt, I think they are about 35-40 bucks.

MyVaporStore has mod-only for $29.95 for the iStick30 -- less than a buck per watt! All colors, too. I'd suggest the 30w over the 20w because the 20w won't step down, and vaping at 4.2v is gonna be pretty hot for someone used to a Spinner.

Andria

 

[Damaurian]

MyVaporStore has mod-only for $29.95 for the iStick30 -- less than a buck per watt! All colors, too. I'd suggest the 30w over the 20w because the 20w won't step down, and vaping at 4.2v is gonna be pretty hot for someone used to a Spinner.

Andria

Would any of these suggested items be compatible with a protank 3?

 

[AndriaD]

Would any of these suggested items be compatible with a protank 3?

I think so, but you would need the "full kit" which has the 510/ego adapter -- the iStick only has 510 threading so it needs the adapter for ego-threads -- and I think the protanks all have ego threads?

The full kit is also pretty cheap at MyVaporStore.com -- $36.95, which is what I paid for my 15w sigelei zmax about a year ago. Think I'm about to get one of those full-kits myself, so I'll have the 1A charging cable.

Andria

ETA: the iStick 20w, because of it being unable to step down, probably woudln't play very nicely with any kind of protank; 4.2v on those small coils is just too much. The 30w can go all the way to 5w, so you could set it for 5w and then adjust it upward to hit your sweet spot, probably somewhere around 8-9w for a PT3.

 

[Damaurian]

I think so, but you would need the "full kit" which has the 510/ego adapter -- the iStick only has 510 threading so it needs the adapter for ego-threads -- and I think the protanks all have ego threads?

The full kit is also pretty cheap at MyVaporStore.com -- $36.95, which is what I paid for my 15w sigelei zmax about a year ago. Think I'm about to get one of those full-kits myself, so I'll have the 1A charging cable.

Andria

ETA: the iStick 20w, because of it being unable to step down, probably woudln't play very nicely with any kind of protank; 4.2v on those small coils is just too much. The 30w can go all the way to 5w, so you could set it for 5w and then adjust it upward to hit your sweet spot, probably somewhere around 8-9w for a PT3.

Lol I'm still new, I'm not yet familiar with wattage and voltage when it comes to vape set-ups. I'll learn as I go I guess. So the iStick 30w should be a possible fit for my PT3?

Is there anyway I could get new coils, but keep my current tank? Coils that could handle the extra watts?

 

[AndriaD]

Lol I'm still new, I'm not yet familiar with wattage and voltage when it comes to vape set-ups. I'll learn as I go I guess. So the iStick 30w should be a possible fit for my PT3?

Is there anyway I could get new coils, but keep my current tank? Coils that could handle the extra watts?

You can rebuild them, which is the best way to make sure you have good coils that will last a bit longer than those factory-made ones. I'm not really familiar with the PT3, tho I know it has dual coils. Try to find a video about rebuilding a PT3, I'm sure there must be some (youtube). The coils you can buy pre-made aren't worth the postage to send them, IMO -- you might get a decent one or two, and then get 3 duds in a row. No consistency, no quality-control, just mass production via the cheapest possible means -- which is the kind of quality you get from them.

Andria