We all started somewhere and there is more stuff out there when I started. coils, heads.........both acceptable terms but yes.
New Vaper here...and I need HELP!!!! PLEASE!!!!
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We all started somewhere and there is more stuff out there when I started. coils, heads.........both acceptable terms but yes.
Im a noob as well and I bought the Odyssey VV from Totally Wicked. It has everything in the kit you need and cleaning it and swapping the atmomizer over is really easy. Everything just screws or pushes together. To refill it all you do is pop the filler funnel it comes with in where the drip tip normally goes then slide the tank up a bit and pour the juice into it. Then just slide it back down and put the drip tip back in and away you go. The 3ml tank lasts me a few days and so does a panasonic 3400mah battery. I don't vape it constantly all day though.
At the end of each week I take all the tank part with the atomizer apart and soak it in hot water then let it air dry. I swap the atomizer over then. So basically I just alternate between two atomizers from one week to the other. They are also rebuildable if you want to go that route to save a couple of dollars. I will be doing that because I live in Australia and postage from the US is super expensive. So far the the two atomizers it comes with have lasted me 1 month and they still look brand new.
At the end of each week I take all the tank part with the atomizer apart and soak it in hot water then let it air dry. I swap the atomizer over then. So basically I just alternate between two atomizers from one week to the other. They are also rebuildable if you want to go that route to save a couple of dollars. I will be doing that because I live in Australia and postage from the US is super expensive. So far the the two atomizers it comes with have lasted me 1 month and they still look brand new.
The answer to why the voltage/wattage changes the flavor comes down to the temp at which the juice vaporizes. Not all flavors are the same chemical or density so different juices vaporize at different optimal currents. I am new to vaping but am an electrical engineer with a chemistry fascination. Hope this helps.
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Seems like the coil/head thing has been straightened out. With regards to bottom vs. top: bottom coils sit at the bottom of the tank and liquid is pulled onto them by gravity. Top coils sit near the top of the tank and liquid is drawn into them by longer wicks (strings). Bottom coils provide a cooler vape than top coils because of the distance the vapor has to travel before it reaches your mouth. At least, that's my rookie understanding of the two.
I'm also beginning to research the variable voltage/wattage thing. Currently looking at Vision Spinner, iTaste v3, or the larger step toward a Vamo v5 or something.... but only looking right now.
Get the itaste mvp2. I wish that I would have started out with one!
tobacco free since 8/03/2013
Everyone says that about the MVP2. I think the reason I've been leaving it off my short list is because I'm still trying to get my head around the box shape. I guess there's still time. I figure if I could exercise enough willpower to kick the burnies, I should be able to keep myself from blowing my budget for a month. But come May.... 
The choice is:
1) lowest monthly cost - rebuildable
2) highest monthly cost hassle free vape: disposables.
3) a wide range of options in-between those two.
For vaping anything, the miniprotank2 I recommend.
Get some replacement glass tubes in case of breakage.
One of the key adavantages of the miniprotanks is it uses the wider eGo base, not the 510 thread, which is really a cigalike thread and is the dominant thread interface right now.
The protanks are not true rebuildables, but the heads are common and alot of people recoil/rewick or partially rewick the coil heads; otherwise you would have to keep buying coil heads; a coil head could last a week; I tend to use a coil head for about 3 days; after that time to dryburn it and clean it and rewick it. Otherwise it starts to leak.
For a hassle free vape with replacement coil system, a cartotank setup is suitable; I think the primining of the carto is the slightly tricky part; basically with a carto system you forget about doing any rebuilding at all, and just swap out the head to a new one which is called a carto (cartomizer).
For high VG liquids, which are thick, a bottom coil tank such as the protanks is suitable; that means the coil is at the bottom of the tank so the liquid tends to keep it wet; the disadvantage is they eventually tend to leak because of course there's a hole at the bottom to keep the coil moist.
Bottom coil tanks are more popular nowadays than topcoil tanks. With topcoils the coil is at the top and the liquid has to rise up the wick to get to the coil
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Buy a Nautilus, it's the most convenient, reliable device. Just set it and forget it. By a provari, it's the most reliable battery you can get. Avoid all Kanger products, because they all are unreliable and you need to fiddle with them a lot.
The choice is:
1) lowest monthly cost - rebuildable
2) highest monthly cost hassle free vape: disposables.
3) a wide range of options in-between those two.
For vaping anything, the miniprotank2 I recommend.
Get some replacement glass tubes in case of breakage.
One of the key adavantages of the miniprotanks is it uses the wider eGo base, not the 510 thread, which is really a cigalike thread and is the dominant thread interface right now.
The protanks are not true rebuildables, but the heads are common and alot of people recoil/rewick or partially rewick the coil heads; otherwise you would have to keep buying coil heads; a coil head could last a week; I tend to use a coil head for about 3 days; after that time to dryburn it and clean it and rewick it. Otherwise it starts to leak.
For a hassle free vape with replacement coil system, a cartotank setup is suitable; I think the primining of the carto is the slightly tricky part; basically with a carto system you forget about doing any rebuilding at all, and just swap out the head to a new one which is called a carto (cartomizer).
For high VG liquids, which are thick, a bottom coil tank such as the protanks is suitable; that means the coil is at the bottom of the tank so the liquid tends to keep it wet; the disadvantage is they eventually tend to leak because of course there's a hole at the bottom to keep the coil moist.
Bottom coil tanks are more popular nowadays than topcoil tanks. With topcoils the coil is at the top and the liquid has to rise up the wick to get to the coil
Thank you for the info. I got the Kanger Protank Mini II with an variable voltage battery and I love it. It has leaked a little bit down to the battery but my vape shop said that wasn't any issue and I haven't had any trouble with it. I just wipe it out when I change out the battery. I will probably do multiple heads for various flavors and replace as needed. It isn't the most cost effective, but it will still be cheaper than the cigarettes and it is easy to do. I need simple. Rebuilding stuff, changing wicks and so forth is not for me. I love the vaping, but I am on the go a lot and I need as simple as I can get. The mini protank is great for my needs.
If anyone cares, i bought the BNE kit and i didn't pay any attention to vg levels or anything and it went fine for the first month, then i needed a new tank and when i use these tanks with the BNE battery i quickly see it burning the tank up inside and it chokes horribly as its burning the metal wiring holding the wicks, i bought a new Ego-t battery and it wasn't strong enough so i modded it slightly and its perfect, could my BNE battery be defective or is it the voltage, I'm very confused on this, please help
Welcome to ECF! I use 5mL PBC Tanks for my tanks. Can use ANY kind of juice, even tank crackers. It holds up to about 6ml of juice topped off. And it's very easy to clean/replace coils.
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