New vaper. Question about coils

[Triscone]

Hey all. I'm a pretty new vaper, have been vaping about a week and have been analog free since last Thursday. I'm very happy with my non smoking, but I'm having a problem burning coils. Bought a Subox Mini kit this past Saturday and have already burned through the 0.5, 1.5, and starting to taste like I just finished off the first mini-rta build. That seems really excessive to me and I'm curious what I'm doing wrong.

The 1.5 was my fault, I dampened the coil from the top on a refill and was having spit back. B&M had directed me on my very first fill when this was an issue to crank it to 50W and give it a few quick hits to burn the liquid from the coil itself. Which worked fine.....on the initially installed 0.5 coil.... It was obviously a terrible idea on the 1.5.

Which brings me to my next question, what EXACTLY is the difference between 50W on a 0.5 and a 1.5 OHM coil? I understand the difference in voltage required to hit that number with each coil, and understand the formula it is derived from, but what is the difference in vaping?

 

[Wolfenstark]

Hi Triscone
50 watts on a 1.5Ω coil is too much it will get too hot and you'll get a harsh vape.
It would be like putting 150 watts through the 0.5Ω coil.

 

[alejandro712]

I don't necessarily think that 50W on a 1.5ohm coil is terrible, it just depends on how its built. The 1.5 ohm coils in the new subtanks, if i'm not mistaken, have a smaller juice port than the 0.5 ohm coils, so it wouldn't be able to feed juice properly. If you built an RBA with thick wiring, it would be different, but the standard stock subtank coils have made the 1.5 ohm coil have a smaller amount of juice feeding capacity, limiting it to lower wattages.

 

[TheSupremeSloth]

50 watts

Hey all. I'm a pretty new vaper, have been vaping about a week and have been analog free since last Thursday. I'm very happy with my non smoking, but I'm having a problem burning coils. Bought a Subox Mini kit this past Saturday and have already burned through the 0.5, 1.5, and starting to taste like I just finished off the first mini-rta build. That seems really excessive to me and I'm curious what I'm doing wrong.

The 1.5 was my fault, I dampened the coil from the top on a refill and was having spit back. B&M had directed me on my very first fill when this was an issue to crank it to 50W and give it a few quick hits to burn the liquid from the coil itself. Which worked fine.....on the initially installed 0.5 coil.... It was obviously a terrible idea on the 1.5.

Which brings me to my next question, what EXACTLY is the difference between 50W on a 0.5 and a 1.5 OHM coil? I understand the difference in voltage required to hit that number with each coil, and understand the formula it is derived from, but what is the difference in vaping?

o

Hey all. I'm a pretty new vaper, have been vaping about a week and have been analog free since last Thursday. I'm very happy with my non smoking, but I'm having a problem burning coils. Bought a Subox Mini kit this past Saturday and have already burned through the 0.5, 1.5, and starting to taste like I just finished off the first mini-rta build. That seems really excessive to me and I'm curious what I'm doing wrong.

The 1.5 was my fault, I dampened the coil from the top on a refill and was having spit back. B&M had directed me on my very first fill when this was an issue to crank it to 50W and give it a few quick hits to burn the liquid from the coil itself. Which worked fine.....on the initially installed 0.5 coil.... It was obviously a terrible idea on the 1.5.

Which brings me to my next question, what EXACTLY is the difference between 50W on a 0.5 and a 1.5 OHM coil? I understand the difference in voltage required to hit that number with each coil, and understand the formula it is derived from, but what is the difference in vaping?

50 watts on both coils, at least in my experience, is too much. To get your coils to last you have to vape at a certain wattage that the resistance can handle. In the case of the 1.5 ohm coil, just like alejandro712 mentioned, the wick holes are much smaller so they can't feed juice to the wicks, and then to the coils, as fast as you're vaping (at 50 watts). So 50 watts on a 1.5 ohm coil is definitely really excessive. On that resistance, you want 20-25 watts to be your absolute maximum if you want a good tasting and long lasting coil. As for the 0.5 ohm coil, 40 watts should be the highest you go if you want it to last. Depending on your tank, it might be able to handle 50 watts but then again if you want the coils to last, you generally want to regulate your wattage so that it's not pushing the coils too far past their capabilities.

 

[IMFire3605]

There are many variables that play into the effect of how high on the power you can go.

The 0.5ohm coil uses thicker wire, some times a 0.5ohm could also be a dual (double coil), in both instances, to get the wire hot enough to properly vaporize liquid, you need more power, 1.5/0.5 = 3, so almost 3x the power the 1.5 would need, not necessarily true but you see the math involved with the physics. Good analogy, takes only a 4cylinder engine to push a sub-compact car to keep up with traffic compared to a full sized 3/4ton pickup pulling a 20foot trailer will need a V8 to move the truck and pull the trailer at proper speed. The main variables you have to look at that restrict how high you can go in wattage are the airflow, juice flow (wicking), coil, then wattage comes into play, remember also thinner higher PG liquids will wick better than thicker higher VG juices in a tanking system, get to hot you do not have enough liquid vaporizing to evaporate the heat away so the liquid plays like a swamp cooler does in this respect, next the more airflow coming, the cooler air cools the coil off by moving that vapor off so more liquid can move in to cool it, so the wicking material has to pull enough liquid to do this fast enough, wick gets dry and hot it will scorch, moment that happens, the wick is done and will be nasty from then on. Generally it is the wicking that will fail and get worn out before the coil being cotton, rayon, or other fiberous material, most times with the RBA you just pull the old wick, burn off the carbon off the coil, rinse it, then rewick and you are back up and running.

The Subtank depending on the resistance of the coil head can range from (1.5ohm) 15watts to 35watts (0.5ohm), finding the balance will be determined by your personal taste buds as well.

Next time you flood a coil, best solution is to take a paper towel, hold the paper towel over the mouth piece, tilt the tank upside down, plug one of the air holes, then blow into the open air hole to blow excess juice out into the paper towel, then clean up the mouth piece inside, and you are back up and running, personally if I had been standing in the shop that you went to and overheard the person behind the counter telling you to fire off the excess at higher power I'd have called him out on his foul as an idiot, what works in a dripping RDA doesn't translate over to a tank and pre-manufactured coil.

If you still have that pack of cotton that came with the tank, cut about a 1/8th to 1/4 inch strip off, remove the old wick in the RBA section, and rewick the RBA, prime the new wick and the coil, seal her back up, set the mod at about 25 to 30watts, and you'll be up and running again at a wattage range the coil was designed for.

 

[Triscone]

There are many variables that play into the effect of how high on the power you can go.

The 0.5ohm coil uses thicker wire, some times a 0.5ohm could also be a dual (double coil), in both instances, to get the wire hot enough to properly vaporize liquid, you need more power, 1.5/0.5 = 3, so almost 3x the power the 1.5 would need, not necessarily true but you see the math involved with the physics. Good analogy, takes only a 4cylinder engine to push a sub-compact car to keep up with traffic compared to a full sized 3/4ton pickup pulling a 20foot trailer will need a V8 to move the truck and pull the trailer at proper speed. The main variables you have to look at that restrict how high you can go in wattage are the airflow, juice flow (wicking), coil, then wattage comes into play, remember also thinner higher PG liquids will wick better than thicker higher VG juices in a tanking system, get to hot you do not have enough liquid vaporizing to evaporate the heat away so the liquid plays like a swamp cooler does in this respect, next the more airflow coming, the cooler air cools the coil off by moving that vapor off so more liquid can move in to cool it, so the wicking material has to pull enough liquid to do this fast enough, wick gets dry and hot it will scorch, moment that happens, the wick is done and will be nasty from then on. Generally it is the wicking that will fail and get worn out before the coil being cotton, rayon, or other fiberous material, most times with the RBA you just pull the old wick, burn off the carbon off the coil, rinse it, then rewick and you are back up and running.

The Subtank depending on the resistance of the coil head can range from (1.5ohm) 15watts to 35watts (0.5ohm), finding the balance will be determined by your personal taste buds as well.

Next time you flood a coil, best solution is to take a paper towel, hold the paper towel over the mouth piece, tilt the tank upside down, plug one of the air holes, then blow into the open air hole to blow excess juice out into the paper towel, then clean up the mouth piece inside, and you are back up and running, personally if I had been standing in the shop that you went to and overheard the person behind the counter telling you to fire off the excess at higher power I'd have called him out on his foul as an idiot, what works in a dripping RDA doesn't translate over to a tank and pre-manufactured coil.

If you still have that pack of cotton that came with the tank, cut about a 1/8th to 1/4 inch strip off, remove the old wick in the RBA section, and rewick the RBA, prime the new wick and the coil, seal her back up, set the mod at about 25 to 30watts, and you'll be up and running again at a wattage range the coil was designed for.

I want to thank you for the best written out response into the mechanics of vaping I have seen yet. Today I went to a local vape shop with these same concerns and got told a few things, but what eventually clicked was the airflow aspect. My tip was getting extremely hot within like 2-3s, too hot to continue pulling in fact. I expressed this and the clerk handed his TFv4 over and told me to hit it and I had the same issues, but he could pull 10-12s with no issues. And then he told me to do it again, but hit it really hard, drag air through it harder and I had the most amazing vape I have had yet. Silky smooth, tasty, and even though I don't care that much about clouds a fricking huge one came bellowing forth. I had totally disregarded the airflow aspect of sub-ohm vaping, and for that matter vaping in general. My eyes were opened, and I am an even more satisfied vaper now than I was before.

Long story short, you cannot vape the same way you smoked. At least not with my setup. I'm now thoroughly convinced my problems stemmed from airflow not cooling the coil, and as a side function running too low of a wattage trying to compensate for a really hot drip tip. This was leading to gunk buildup extremely fast as coil was not burning off the juice fast enough.

I'm a changed man, I'm still a noob, but so much less so than yesterday!

 

[edyle]

B&M had directed me on my very first fill when this was an issue to crank it to 50W and give it a few quick hits to burn the liquid from the coil itself.

Ouch;
I guess that ends up with a lot of their new vapers returning to buy new coils because they burnt their old ones.

start low and work your way up.

 

[mcclintock]

The 1.5 was my fault, I dampened the coil from the top on a refill and was having spit back. B&M had directed me on my very first fill when this was an issue to crank it to 50W and give it a few quick hits to burn the liquid from the coil itself. Which worked fine.....on the initially installed 0.5 coil.... It was obviously a terrible idea on the 1.5.

Which brings me to my next question, what EXACTLY is the difference between 50W on a 0.5 and a 1.5 OHM coil? I understand the difference in voltage required to hit that number with each coil, and understand the formula it is derived from, but what is the difference in vaping?

There is no need to turn up the power to burn off (not really burning) some excess. You just turn it partially upside down so new juice can't get to the coil. Maybe those people just think when in doubt, turn it up

1.5 ohm doesn't tell you anything by itself. However, this is a commercial coil so it is designed to at least "work" at standard battery voltage (unregulated) of about 4 volts. Given a constant voltage, higher resistance draws less power, so it is designed to work correctly at a lower power level. Ohm's law only tells you how much power will flow, not what happens when it gets there, but since the manufacturer knows the power in this case we do have a pretty good idea of what will happen... If it was a DIY coil intended only for use with regulated mods there would be no need to make sure the voltage requirements fall within a narrow range.