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Very nice review and I totally agree with all you say.
I didn't even think to try swapping tubes with my vamo, thanks for that bit of information. The thought of having a vamo running 2 18650 batteries comes to mind with the extra parts. Would be like vaping a night stick I'd guess, would freak a few out at a vape meet. <evil grin>
As for using flat top batteries they work just fine, though you would like to know.
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(Game started 7/5 @ 4:40 AM)
As of Friday 7/5 @ 11:40 AM
Cuckoo -- Round #1
Pick 4 numbers from 1-400
Check the board for available numbers:
Link to Gotvapes Game Board!
Colored cells are taken.
Winning number(s) are chosen via Random.org at game end.
The Prize:
AGI, ?!
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Please do not edit your pick posts.
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Nighty Night and Sweet Dreams All
Thanks for the excellent in-depth review of the UDT-V8 mod rdsok, I no longer want one!
JK...maybe?
FYI: do you all know the order of "common" metal conductivity?
Silver: best
Copper: 9% less conductive than silver
Aluminium is 10% less conductive than copper
Gold: 24% less conductive than copper (but doesn't tarnish or corrode)
Brass is somewhere here.
Platinum: 84% less conductive than copper
Titanium: Over 99% less conductive than copper
Stainless Steel:
JK...maybe?
FYI: do you all know the order of "common" metal conductivity?
Silver: best
Copper: 9% less conductive than silver
Aluminium is 10% less conductive than copper
Gold: 24% less conductive than copper (but doesn't tarnish or corrode)
Brass is somewhere here.
Platinum: 84% less conductive than copper
Titanium: Over 99% less conductive than copper
Stainless Steel:
Thanks for the excellent in-depth review of the UDT-V8 mod rdsok, I no longer want one!
JK...maybe?
FYI: do you all know the order of "common" metal conductivity?
Silver: best
Copper: 9% less conductive than silver
Aluminium is 10% less conductive than copper
Gold: 24% less conductive than copper (but doesn't tarnish or corrode)
Brass is somewhere here.
Platinum: 84% less conductive than copper
Titanium: Over 99% less conductive than copper
Stainless Steel:
Nice one Schnarph, a couple new facts in there for me, thanks!
Gnite poopies.
Keep CountryPami in your thoughts/prayers, and helpfully she'll get to go home this weekend.
It's been a long time since I learned about conductivity of the various metals... though I've been dealing with it in almost every job I've had since '78. Cable repair tech for Ma' Bell for almost 9 yrs and the past 35+ as a computer repair tech.
Conductivity of the metals in this size and gauge of components with as short as the distances that the electricity has to travel... makes it almost a none issue with the types of metals used in most mods. What is more important to a mech mod such as this and ones like it... would be the corrosion resistance more than anything, which is why needing to clean the contacts and threads regularly comes into play. Assuming of course that the contacts themselves in the switches are made right to start with ( ie true surfaces )
I'm pretty impressed with it considering it's a mass produced mod and all. Anyone looking for this type of style should be pretty happy with it, as I am.
Now a mod such as the Bolt which uses a piece of wire ( 18ga or so )... well, lets just say it has a nice fusible link built in...
Conductivity of the metals in this size and gauge of components with as short as the distances that the electricity has to travel... makes it almost a none issue with the types of metals used in most mods. What is more important to a mech mod such as this and ones like it... would be the corrosion resistance more than anything, which is why needing to clean the contacts and threads regularly comes into play. Assuming of course that the contacts themselves in the switches are made right to start with ( ie true surfaces )
I'm pretty impressed with it considering it's a mass produced mod and all. Anyone looking for this type of style should be pretty happy with it, as I am.
Now a mod such as the Bolt which uses a piece of wire ( 18ga or so )... well, lets just say it has a nice fusible link built in...
One tiny tube of no-ox-id "A special" is going to keep all my copper contacts happy for life.
From what I've read, it's the switch that fails on the Bolt, not the wires. The metal composition of bottom battery springs has been an issue for a few mods, revisions have been a necessity. I like to learn though, new information is always appreciated. Everyone benefits from learned experience, shared experiences move us all forward.
From what I've read, it's the switch that fails on the Bolt, not the wires. The metal composition of bottom battery springs has been an issue for a few mods, revisions have been a necessity. I like to learn though, new information is always appreciated. Everyone benefits from learned experience, shared experiences move us all forward.
No paste will completely stop oxidation... but they do make a lot of difference since they do seal the surfaces so less oxygen gets to them. So using something like noalox will extend the amount of time between cleanings... but you still need to clean your contacts and threads.
While kathal ( or even nichrome ) and stainless steel are different in makeup a bit... they are still close enough if someone wants to test what I was referring to about conductivity.... Take a foot of kanthal, a then an inch thick bar one foot long of stainless steel and then measure the resistance of each using the same settings on your ohm meter. You should be able to read the resistance easily on the kathal and see none ( almost none actually ) with the SS bar. You could use just steel also, but it doesn't have as much chromium in it so it differs more from kanthal than the SS does.
And for an unrelated conductivity factoid... one on thermal conductivity.
In the computer industry everyone seems to be all giddy about Arctic Silver thermal paste ( and similar pastes ) and they talk about how well it works. The funny part is that fresh toothpaste is more thermally conductive as long as it isn't dried out. The performance differences between standard thermal pastes and the high end ones is so little as to be almost funny... So next time you need to choose between the $5 a tube stuff and the $10 a tube stuff... save the $5 and get the standard stuff.
While kathal ( or even nichrome ) and stainless steel are different in makeup a bit... they are still close enough if someone wants to test what I was referring to about conductivity.... Take a foot of kanthal, a then an inch thick bar one foot long of stainless steel and then measure the resistance of each using the same settings on your ohm meter. You should be able to read the resistance easily on the kathal and see none ( almost none actually ) with the SS bar. You could use just steel also, but it doesn't have as much chromium in it so it differs more from kanthal than the SS does.
And for an unrelated conductivity factoid... one on thermal conductivity.
In the computer industry everyone seems to be all giddy about Arctic Silver thermal paste ( and similar pastes ) and they talk about how well it works. The funny part is that fresh toothpaste is more thermally conductive as long as it isn't dried out. The performance differences between standard thermal pastes and the high end ones is so little as to be almost funny... So next time you need to choose between the $5 a tube stuff and the $10 a tube stuff... save the $5 and get the standard stuff.
I didn't notice much difference between thermal pastes either, but after sanding a CPU heat sink down to a mirror finish with sandpaper down to 2000 grit, I've dropped over 10 degrees Fahrenheit from stock. I haven't gone to such measures with a vaping mod, but some of us are looking to shave off voltage drop like grams on a racing motor vehicle. I'm not in that category, I'm more concerned with the amount of space a firing switch uses purely for aesthetic reasons. With an RBA on top, some mods are way too tall for my taste. 
I shouldn't have insinuated that I wouldn't appreciate a UDT-V8 mod, I would imagine it performs as well as a Silver Bullet. The Sigelei #20 might be shorter, but the switch design is just... I own a #20 V2, and I am very displeased with the performance even after sanding the contact points. 
Top switch mech mods are very tricky to design well, or the extremely expensive high end models wouldn't all be pinky or bottom firing. Any disregard I have paid the UDT-V8 had been completely from jealousy of it's owners, and I am ashamed of myself. I shall go hide in the corner like a good Snarf and avoid all future fire incited by my comments.
I shouldn't have insinuated that I wouldn't appreciate a UDT-V8 mod, I would imagine it performs as well as a Silver Bullet. The Sigelei #20 might be shorter, but the switch design is just...
I own a #20 V2, and I am very displeased with the performance even after sanding the contact points. Top switch mech mods are very tricky to design well, or the extremely expensive high end models wouldn't all be pinky or bottom firing. Any disregard I have paid the UDT-V8 had been completely from jealousy of it's owners, and I am ashamed of myself. I shall go hide in the corner like a good Snarf and avoid all future fire incited by my comments.
The #20s seem like a random hit or miss. Could be QC problems as well as so-so design. I've got a V1, and after changing the spring, it hits hard. I'm happy enough that I'm not gonna monkey with it (unlike the #19).
Thats great you (and others) found a workaround. I helped a new member a couple months ago who was having allergic reactions to PG but didnt know it, I told him about PG sensitivity, and said he should just use VG and see if it helps (i knew it would). But I didn't know about water and vodka to thin mixes until recently. Is that what you do? Add a little water?
Hi Aflo,
Like I said earlier, I started with VG out of a Purist Theme. I read that All PG is Chemical Based, while VG comes from Vegetables. It sounded more Natural, so that's what I chose. I have since learned that most VG E-Liquids today are actually Synthetic, but also that "Real" VG can still be obtained... for up to more than 3X the price, that is. I know now, by the Price I paid, that Mine is Synthetic. I bought one liter of both USP and Nic Base in January, and I still have Plenty left, so I'm gonna use that up before I buy the "Real" thing. I bought 36mg Nic to mix 50/50 for 18mg. I have cut down the Nic levels 2-3 times, and I'm mixing 9mg now, so I'll run out of USP first. I'll get "Real" USP then, and get "Real" Unflavored Nic later.
I started diluting VG with things, too. First I tried Everclear, because it was alcohol was mentioned to me, and I had some I had bought for e-cig Cleaning purposes (Please don't use Isopropyl Alc to Clean). The Everclear is Great for Cleaning, but way too strong for Vaping!!! I've used Bacardi 151 (still kinda strong for the percentage I used), and Captain Morgan Spiced Rum in the 70 Proof, but less of a percentage this time. The Spiced Rum was my favorite of them. Let it Steep for a month or longer, and the Spiced Flavor really comes alive. But I have to caution anyone who might want to try this. If you get pulled over, the Alcohol can and prolly will show up on a Breath Test. Since then, I've been diluting with distilled water (DW). One can use up to 20% DW (or any total dilution combo), but I used 15% DW before I started adding Flavorings. I add 15% of CHR, but it's still kinda Thick, so I going to try 15% CHR with 5% DW next time.
I have also learned, Thanks to FL Lori, that the majority of Vendors who Claim to carry 100% VG Flavored E-Liquids, and actually NOT 100% VG, because of the Flavorings that are added. There are a very few Vendors who make and sell what are truly 100% VG Flavored E-Liquids, including any Flavorings. They are actually PG Free. This is just Me talking, but they may likely contain other things, which one may or may not be able to tolerate.
I DIY as close to 100% VG as I can & have for years ...
The VG NIC base I use IS Pre-thinned w/distilled water...so I don't have to thin anymore.
Before I found it I thinned w/distilled water (5%) I have also used Vodka @ the same % ...
but It seemed to cause me to have a sore throat the next day...
there are also VG NIC bases out there that use alcohol as the thinning agent,
they also caused a sore throat.
SO... VG/VG NIC base (Distilled water) & 10-12% flavorings* for me
*I can use as much as 30% PG
...b-4 I get "ITCHY" so I can still use pg based flavorings
sorry YOU can't use any 100%VG ,that must make it a lot harder to deal with ...
I can't deal with Citrus either & that is a hard one to avoid ,
they seem to put one kind of citrus or another in most mixed flavors I have tried.
Thanks for that Kelly,
If you can't do Citrus, you should not try CHR. It's the Oils in Citrus and Cinnamon that cause problems with e-cigs (plastics, o-rings, etc.), and it's prolly the Oils in the Citrus that give you problems. Sorry about that for you. The oil in Cinnamon is called Cinnamaldehyde. It gives some people a sore throat, but others get a closed throat, and more Harsh and even Violent reactions. I haven't had anything like that, so I might be able to vape on Citrus juices, but I'd still have the same problems with e-cig parts. CHR does its thing rather quickly to them.
I could probably handle the PG Based Flavorings, and I might end up trying them, because I'd really like to try Banana Pudding. I've just been trying to avoid them so far, because, aside from my Reactions (often mislabeled an Allergy - it's a Chemical Reaction), every juice I've tried so far that has PG in it has tasted Muddy and Oily... quite Nasty. The 20% PG juice tasted quite Oily, and a little Muddy. The majority PG halo juice (all of them are majority PG) was a Chocolate/Coffee, so I attributed that Muddy taste to the Flavor. I know better now. But maybe if it were only the small amounts of PG that were only in the Flavorings, it might not be too bad. I've just been avoiding PG because that 20% PG juice hit me with a Vengeance (20% PG, plus whatever was in the 3 blended Vanilla Flavorings). I'd have to try a PG Based Flavoring to know if I'd get the Oily taste, or the Mental Disturbance.
We're already in the Nut House here. I don't really need to be pushed over the edge.
But then, thinking about it, I've already tried a PG Based Flavoring. I used 15% of TFA Vanilla Swirl (maybe too much for this one, but that's the amount of CHR I use), and it was Oily and Nasty, and made my arms Itch in only 6 vapes. I just remembered that this is why I felt I had to avoid them. My Reactions seem to get worse with every exposure. I recently had PG "Allergy" added to my Medical Records over that one. Most Medical Inhalers have whatever is in them suspended in a Majority of PG.
Kelly, Please tell your Doctor that you are "Allergic" to certain PG levels, and how you Know this!!! A Majority of PG is in most Inhalers used in hospitals, but also many IV things. You don't want to get pumped up with a Toxic substance if you're in the hospital. I'm actually thinking of getting a Medical Alert bracelet, for EMTs and Doctors.
I completely agree... the #20's are pretty hit and miss. They should have never tried to redesign the switch of the original roller probably. If nothing else, they should have made getting into the switch more assessable. Mine sucked from the start and after I gave up playing with the switch and started putting it back together... it wouldn't go back in all of the way... I encouraged it ( used a hammer .... lol, I still laugh about that ). Whether it was my messing with the contacts or the encouragement... it works great now.
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