Newbie MOD learning, what to expect?

[superstarsticky]

Hello all!

So I've been studying, trying my best to expand my mind into the vape world.

Here's what I have and what direction i'm headed.

My first purchase was a Private MOD clone with 2 different batteries.
- ultrafire - BRC18650 3000mAh 3.7V li-ion
- trustfire - xsl 18350 1200mAh 3.7V

Now I was using some sort of genisis atomizer that my local vape shop sold me (not real sure the name)
I also told my vape shop I would be re-building coils.

Once I found sub-ohm'ing online I luckily quickly learned I needed to 'upgrade my batteries' So I ordered the new Sony VTC4 18650 3.7V 2100mAh

Once, I ordered those batteries I also bought a magneto MOD to use rather then the private clone. (I really didn't notice much of a difference. However, I'm not real sure what I should be noticing as a 'difference' in MODS)

I've been using a Nimbus clone where I drilled 2 1/8th in. air holes and have been using several different dual coil builds (Micro coil builds, as well as your basic 4-3 wrap with 28 gauge kanthal)

I'm also using a delrin drip tip.

I'm using another re-buildable atty as well however, i'm not sure the name. There are 3 pieces and a smaller mass then the nimbus clone.

The reason I've been using the clones is because from what I have been seeing the large difference in price doesn't quite roll over in value. Though I'm also seeing that posts that are welded are 'better' then posts not welded(i'd love for someone to talk more into this as well)

Now I'm getting that 'cloud chasing' experience with the magneto and the re-buildable atty's I'm using as well as the VTC4 batteries.

What I'd like to know is this,

I've been learning about the material the MOD posts are made of conduct electricity 'better' then others EX: brass, copper, silver...

I've also read that the expandable size MOD's also may affect the performance of the vape. So what I have done is ordered an Ember Copper Mech MOD which has a 18650 full copper tube. As well as, copper contacts.

What can I expect using the ember copper mod, sub-ohming with the VTC4 batteries in comparison to the magneto MOD, sub-ohming with the VTC4 batteries?

My ultimate goal here is to be in an environment with other vaper's and absolutely blow them away with my HUGE clouds.

So any, I mean ANY advice you care to share to help me reach my goals I am ALL ears! (or eyes since this is a forum)

Thank you all!

 

[itskohler]

Sounds like you're on the right track. If you're going for awe inspiring clouds you should be good with the Sony battery as it's rated for 30 amps, well above what you would be pushing for. I'd really try to figure out what your topper is, post pics etc., so someone can identify it for you and you can research builds accordingly.

 

[StarsAndBars]

Do you have a multimeter? They are cheap at radio shack? I recommend getting one and just checking the voltage drop on each mod then you'd know exactly.

I guess you already know, but for clouds, use 100 percent VG juice.

 

[Tugg n chase]

Are you testing your coils before using them?
My advice would be to get more acquainted with your gear and the safety issues regarding what your trying to accomplish by blowing clouds. I don't doubt your stuff can handle it but you should understand why

 

[itskohler]

To add, the voltage drop you'd measure on the Magneto to the Ember would be due to the threading on a telescopic vs battery specific tubing. I wouldn't expect it to create that much of an issue if you're shooting for 1.4 to 1.8 ohms. But in the sub-ohm world, so I've read and watched on you tube, that voltage drop might make all the difference in how low you can get with the resistance.

Read up on Ohms law, then re-read it, and have someone quiz you. Then re-read battery safety. Then look into getting a kick, and an Ohm reader to double check your coils. All the charts and calculators in the world can't compensate for human error.

 

[superstarsticky]

Sorry for poor quality, but there it is.

 

[superstarsticky]

Do you have a multimeter? They are cheap at radio shack? I recommend getting one and just checking the voltage drop on each mod then you'd know exactly.

I guess you already know, but for clouds, use 100 percent VG juice.

This was a re-assuring post I wanted, thank you much!

No I do not have a multi-meter but I will go grab one soon.

 

[superstarsticky]

Are you testing your coils before using them?
My advice would be to get more acquainted with your gear and the safety issues regarding what your trying to accomplish by blowing clouds. I don't doubt your stuff can handle it but you should understand why

Testing them how?

Doing my best to learn! Thanks brother

 

[Tugg n chase]

On your conductivity question. Brass and copper are definitely better for battery contacts but I personally don't like my liquid coming in contact with it

 

[StarsAndBars]

To add, the voltage drop you'd measure on the Magneto to the Ember would be due to voltage drop. I wouldn't expect it to create that much of an issue if you're shooting for 1.4 to 1.8 ohms. But in the sub-ohm world, so I've read and watched on you tube, that voltage drop might make all the difference in how low you can get with the resistance.

Read up on Ohms law, then re-read it, and have someone quiz you. Then re-read battery safety. Then look into getting a kick, and an Ohm reader to double check your coils. All the charts and calculators in the world can't compensate for human error.

Just a heads up. Im pretty sure a kick would defeat the purpose. Doesnt it have a watt limiter at like 15 watts. No good for cloud fights.

OP I get the impression you realize the importance of battery amp capability so I wont grill you. But if not, take a few minutes to check it out.

 

[superstarsticky]

To add, the voltage drop you'd measure on the Magneto to the Ember would be due to the threading on a telescopic vs battery specific tubing. I wouldn't expect it to create that much of an issue if you're shooting for 1.4 to 1.8 ohms. But in the sub-ohm world, so I've read and watched on you tube, that voltage drop might make all the difference in how low you can get with the resistance.

Read up on Ohms law, then re-read it, and have someone quiz you. Then re-read battery safety. Then look into getting a kick, and an Ohm reader to double check your coils. All the charts and calculators in the world can't compensate for human error.

Awesome thanks man!

I'll need to re-re-re read ohm's law, I'm terrible with math and numbers. This is my most challenging endeavor with vaping.

 

[Tugg n chase]

Testing them how?

Doing my best to learn! Thanks brother

Ohms meter or multimeter. Want to make sure you don't run into any hard shorts and destroy your batteries, mod, or yourself

 

[itskohler]

True, lost the scope of what he was asking. Vape on.

 

[StarsAndBars]

Oh crap I just saw your last post. Dude get a multimeter and learn how to use it. Then look at ohms law and why it is important so you don't hurt yourself.

And tell your friends to do the same thing for goodness sake

 

[roadie]

Hello all!

So I've been studying, trying my best to expand my mind into the vape world.

Here's what I have and what direction i'm headed.

My first purchase was a Private MOD clone with 2 different batteries.
- ultrafire - BRC18650 3000mAh 3.7V li-ion
- trustfire - xsl 18350 1200mAh 3.7V

Now I was using some sort of genisis atomizer that my local vape shop sold me (not real sure the name)
I also told my vape shop I would be re-building coils.

Once I found sub-ohm'ing online I luckily quickly learned I needed to 'upgrade my batteries' So I ordered the new Sony VTC4 18650 3.7V 2100mAh

Once, I ordered those batteries I also bought a magneto MOD to use rather then the private clone. (I really didn't notice much of a difference. However, I'm not real sure what I should be noticing as a 'difference' in MODS)

I've been using a Nimbus clone where I drilled 2 1/8th in. air holes and have been using several different dual coil builds (Micro coil builds, as well as your basic 4-3 wrap with 28 gauge kanthal)

I'm also using a delrin drip tip.

I'm using another re-buildable atty as well however, i'm not sure the name. There are 3 pieces and a smaller mass then the nimbus clone.

The reason I've been using the clones is because from what I have been seeing the large difference in price doesn't quite roll over in value. Though I'm also seeing that posts that are welded are 'better' then posts not welded(i'd love for someone to talk more into this as well)

Now I'm getting that 'cloud chasing' experience with the magneto and the re-buildable atty's I'm using as well as the VTC4 batteries.

What I'd like to know is this,

I've been learning about the material the MOD posts are made of conduct electricity 'better' then others EX: brass, copper, silver...

I've also read that the expandable size MOD's also may affect the performance of the vape. So what I have done is ordered an Ember Copper Mech MOD which has a 18650 full copper tube. As well as, copper contacts.

What can I expect using the ember copper mod, sub-ohming with the VTC4 batteries in comparison to the magneto MOD, sub-ohming with the VTC4 batteries?

My ultimate goal here is to be in an environment with other vaper's and absolutely blow them away with my HUGE clouds.

So any, I mean ANY advice you care to share to help me reach my goals I am ALL ears! (or eyes since this is a forum)

Thank you all!

If your goal is strictly huge clouds, I would recommend the following:

LEARN ABOUT BATTERY SAFETY AND PROPER SUB OHM SETUPS BEFORE DOING ANYTHING.

I have yet to find an accurate multimeter, even a Fluke, that measures subohm properly. I would get an Oracle or something similar specifically for RBA's/RDA's.

18650 IMR Batteries rated at 30A (Sony, AW, Efest, etc.)
Patriot or similar RDA. Easy to setup, plenty of room to work with
Drill out airholes to around 1/8"
Figure out best resistance for your setup (maybe .4-.7?) I hesitate to recommend anything lower than .4 ohms, even if that setup works for some.

Heat, airflow, wattage, and you will have huge clouds.

 

[superstarsticky]

Ohms meter or multimeter. Want to make sure you don't run into any hard shorts and destroy your batteries, mod, or yourself

So getting this equipment and reading my builds and knowing if I have a hard short, etc... What am I looking for in order to see this potential danger?

 

[superstarsticky]

If your goal is strictly huge clouds, I would recommend the following:

LEARN ABOUT BATTERY SAFETY AND PROPER SUB OHM SETUPS BEFORE DOING ANYTHING.

I have yet to find an accurate multimeter, even a Fluke, that measures subohm properly. I would get an Oracle or something similar specifically for RBA's/RDA's.

18650 IMR Batteries rated at 30A (Sony, AW, Efest, etc.)
Patriot or similar RDA. Easy to setup, plenty of room to work with
Drill out airholes to around 1/8"
Figure out best resistance for your setup (maybe .4-.7?) I hesitate to recommend anything lower than .4 ohms, even if that setup works for some.

Heat, airflow, wattage, and you will have huge clouds.

Awesome, thank you!

What is IMR, and how does that compare with the Sony VTC4's I have now?

 

[StarsAndBars]

Exceeding the amp limit of a battery leads to thermal runaway. This causes the battery to vent chemicals, catch fire, explode. Seriously put off the cloud fights till you and your bros know what you're doing.

 

[roadie]

So getting this equipment and reading my builds and knowing if I have a hard short, etc... What am I looking for in order to see this potential danger?

Look for overall resistance reading, any fluctuations in the reading, etc. I usually tap the RDA or wiggle the coils a bit to see if they are loose at all and check the reading and see if it changes. Make sure it won't come into contact with the cap, the deck, or the posts.

 

[roadie]

Awesome, thank you!

What is IMR, and how does that compare with the Sony VTC4's I have now?

The VTC4's are IMR. You've chosen one of the best batteries for your application. If not the best.

Basically, understand Ohm's Law and you will see how the amperage skyrockets exponentially as the resistance drops below .1 or .2 ohms. It won't be pretty.

You don't want to setup a .4, find a short, then find out you're pulling WAY more than the battery can handle (30A).