Ok so I have the AR Mech mod, and I've not really had any problems with it til recently. My problem is that the copper plate that gives connectivity to the battery is no sticking out enough to push the battery. the washer sticks out more than the button does pressed down hard. My question is if I loosen the plate just a tad so it'll stick out enough would that be a problem? I'm trying to make it work til I get the magnets, but for now I'm stuck with a ....ty spring, and it's gotten to the point where I can't even get connectivity to hit the vape. Thank you so much in advance for your advice!
*Newbie* Question About AR Mod
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Can you stretch the spring out? Magnets are a great upgrade. As for unscrewing the plate, as long as you're not on the last few threads, it should be ok.
I've stretched it out already but it doesn't change the fact the copper contact doesn't extend past the washer. I took your advice and loosened it a little bit, but now if I move it too fast it'll make a sound on the button as if somethings really loose in their. but I only unscrewed it a few times. My main fear is that something will always be on when sat down. Thank you for your response!
Hi and welcome to the board. I can't visualize what your problem is from your description, but connection problems in a mech scare me. Maybe try a button-top battery?
Ok so my problem is that the copper connector won't rise enough to push the battery up and hit the other copper connector to turn on the rda, and I've loosened it a little but I just didn't know if I should leave it loose like that for a while until I get a new spring. Every now and then the button on the mod will get a little warm, and I think it is from the connectivity issues with the copper plate and battery. What's your advice? Thanks.
You're not gonna wanna hear this but my opinion is that you should trash the AR mod. Get a reliable mech, as the AR (authentic or clone) is a hunk of junk.
Every one I've heard of has hot button issues. I mean, it's fortunate the mod is riddled with holes (in the event of a battery discharge), but it's unfortunate that it's poorly designed.
Every one I've heard of has hot button issues. I mean, it's fortunate the mod is riddled with holes (in the event of a battery discharge), but it's unfortunate that it's poorly designed.
Yeah I'm starting to think the same thing, but I'm pretty indecisive on what type of "fairly" cheap box mod I should get and that it's compatible with my darkhorse RDA. Any advice? Thanks
What ohm coils where you building? And what price range? Would be good info for helping limit a decisions.
I'm a big big fan of the Sig150, and it's seeing some pretty huge price drops since there are other mods coming out.
You can probably find one for ~80$, and it'll work a treat with literally any RDA you throw on top of it.
Sigelei 150W Box Mod
Eleaf iSmoka iStick 100W Bod Mod
I just got one of these, 165w upgradeable to 200w and Titanium - if you're interested in Temp Control
iPV3-Li V2 165W Temperature Control Mod by Pioneer4you
Eleaf iSmoka iStick 100W Bod Mod
I just got one of these, 165w upgradeable to 200w and Titanium - if you're interested in Temp Control
iPV3-Li V2 165W Temperature Control Mod by Pioneer4you
There is another adjustment pin in the top. It can be screwed out further to make the connection better. The battery shouldn't move inside the mod. If you have the same crappy mod my buddy has, you have another problem. The copper connection on the switch is larger than the exposed surface of the negative end of the battery. Take the battery out and check that out too. If your switch hits the wrapper on the battery instead of the battery itself, it won't fire.
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