Hi, I just started vaping 2 months ago. I've been doing quite a bit of research as I go, and I'm confused reading about "frying batteries". I saw a GrimmGreen video about the vivi nova v1 frying out his Silver bullet mod, what is it about the coil that fried his battery? From reading, I see people talking about checking ohms on their coils to protect the battery and wonder what the ohm reading would read in order to melt or fry the battery. I just would like some clarification, because I rebuilt my first protank coil and it's reading R1.6-1.7 on my mvp2. Im assuming it's totally safe on my Mvp2 and ego-c batteries because the manual says they have battery protection. Also, I have 2 other ego batteries. The manual says ego/ego-t on the book and says the ego-t are protected. Thing is I don't know if I have a ego or ego-t. Are all ego batteries protected? Im sure they are real egos, and i want to pass them on to my dad hoping he will give up cigs. I just don't want to give him un-protected batteries. Thx for your time.
Newbie questions
- Thread starter DirtMcgirt
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Hi DirtMcgirt and welcome to ECF!
Good questions. The Silver Bullet is a mechanical mod, with no electronics in it so it has built in protections that the regulated mods have. Your Mvp2 has over-amp, reverse polarity, minimum battery voltage shutdown to prevent the battery from being discharged too low and some others. Use a IMR battery in that and you are as safe as you can be from battery issues.
With a mech mod it's up to the user to make sure nothing they do puts too much draw on the battery or it will start heating up. Get it too hot and it can vent which is nasty and dangerous. People use mech mods to be able to vape at more power than the majority of regulated mods allow.
Your mod will be fine using anything it can fire. I would stay between 2.0 and 2.5 ohms. Not really any advantage going outside that range.
Good questions. The Silver Bullet is a mechanical mod, with no electronics in it so it has built in protections that the regulated mods have. Your Mvp2 has over-amp, reverse polarity, minimum battery voltage shutdown to prevent the battery from being discharged too low and some others. Use a IMR battery in that and you are as safe as you can be from battery issues.
With a mech mod it's up to the user to make sure nothing they do puts too much draw on the battery or it will start heating up. Get it too hot and it can vent which is nasty and dangerous. People use mech mods to be able to vape at more power than the majority of regulated mods allow.
Your mod will be fine using anything it can fire. I would stay between 2.0 and 2.5 ohms. Not really any advantage going outside that range.
The atty grimmgreen was using was defective. It was shorting out and since he used it on a mechanical (not technically a mech but close enough) that had no other protection other than a "hot spring" the battery became so hot that it melted the spring if my memory is correct. Anyhow, mods like what you are using are protected, they will not fire an atty below ~1.0ish ohms.
Nevertheless, when you rebuild a coil. Mesure it before using it, you want the coil above 1.3 ohms and I would suggest above 1.8 on an eGo. Your MPV can read resistances.
I once screwed a subohm (below 1 ohm) atty on an eGo (don't ask why) and it shorted, became super hot, I quickly unscrewed the atty and threw out the eGo batt, more scare than harm.
Nevertheless, when you rebuild a coil. Mesure it before using it, you want the coil above 1.3 ohms and I would suggest above 1.8 on an eGo. Your MPV can read resistances.
I once screwed a subohm (below 1 ohm) atty on an eGo (don't ask why) and it shorted, became super hot, I quickly unscrewed the atty and threw out the eGo batt, more scare than harm.
Realized I did not answer this and it's important. The lower the resistance the coil is the more current (amps) you draw from the battery. The Mvp2 has I believe a 3 amp limit which is accomplished with the electronics in it. There is a Ohm's Law calculator here. Plug in the voltage you set at and the resistance of your coil, hit calculate and it gives you the current. Any time you try to draw more than your mod allows the electronics kick in. Experiment with different voltages and you'll see how high you can go at that resistance.
Aren't the ego batteries protected and supposed to turn off when shorted? Also thx for the feedback guys. Clears quite a bit up.
Murphy's Law states: If anything can go wrong, it will go wrong. And if nothing can go wrong, it will go wrong.
Protection sometimes, fails.
A hard short is a short circuit in the electrical conduction in a mod. This can be an abnormal connection between two nodes of an electric circuit intended to be at different voltages. This results in an excessive electric current/overcurrent...and potentially causes circuit damage, overheating, fire or explosion.
A common type of short circuit occurs when the positive and negative terminals of a battery are connected with a low-resistance conductor, like a coil wire. With low resistance in the connection, a high current exists, causing the battery to deliver a large amount of energy in a short time. A large current through a battery can cause the rapid buildup of heat, potentially resulting in the release of gas or in some cases flames or explosion. This is called "thermal runaway".
Signs to look out for that can indicate a hard short is about to occur is the fire button becoming hot, the mod itself becoming hot, or the battery becoming hot. If using a collapsable hot spring, its collapse means enough heat was generated to cause it to melt. Something is causing the battery to work too hard and release too much energy too fast.
Regulated mods have built-in protection against situations which could allow a hard short to occur. These protections will either cause the processor to refuse to fire the atomizer, or actually shut itself off. This is intended to protect itself, the battery, and you.
A mechanical mod has no such protection. You must rely upon YOU to be the protection.
"In a mechanical mod with a metal piston switch and no wiring, your weak link is the battery. This is not a link you want to break while it is in close proximity to your face. Over taxing a battery in a mech can create a little pipe bomb.
Too many people are jumping into mechanical mods without understanding what they are getting into and not realizing it is not a care-free device like a Vamo. It requires more attention to details and a better understanding of all the variables. Too often people on forums say, " Mech mods are easy, just drop a battery in and go. I don't understand why others say it is not for beginners." Because if you don't understand all the things you need to watch for there is a serious chance of something possibly going wrong down the road.
Mech mods are not learning devices. They need to be understood before you begin to experiment with them. So far people have been lucky. Some people don't check the batteries they use, don't know what resistance their coils are at etc, and nothing has happened, giving a false sense of security to others to try the same things, but all it will take is one bad coil or one bad battery to change someone's face forever.
These batteries were not originally intended for what we are using them for. In fact, I have read that Panasonic, Sanyo, Sony, and Samsung, don't even like the fact that we're using these batteries because they were not intended for single cell, unprotected use in any device. The fact that they're available can be attributed to modders of flashlights, pen lasers, and bicycle electronics. A demand formed around those markets and it was filled by various folks, and then e-cigs came along and the demand skyrocketed.
With some basic knowledge of battery and mod limitations, and always using safe battery practices, using these batteries for vaping can be considered extremely safe. Just please always respect the power that are in them."
--Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries
Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide
IMR and the relatively new hybrid batteries are "safer chemistry" batteries. They are more resistant to the stresses that batteries are exposed to, and are less likely to hard short than ICR "protected batteries". They can still fail and vent, but they will do so less dramatically and likely without flames. It's my opinion that with today's modern batteries, there is no reason to use an ICR protected battery, as IMR and hybrid batteries are a much safer alternative. (Unprotected ICR batteries should NEVER be used in a mod. These are sometimes seen for sale on Ebay and Amazon, and are intended only for flashlights, laptops, or similar applications.)
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/129569-rechargeable-batteries.html
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