Newbie rebuildable problem

[Atomiciser]

Hello! I just got my new mutant X rebuildable and wires in the post, however the batteries I have (ego c-twist) just start flashing red and blue and won't ignite it. I was following the Abby Vapes tutorial but I can't seem to get past this step. I put six turns on 0,40 KAN -A1 and it looks more or less right, do I need different batteries?

edit: this is the video I mean: on youtube watch?v=fXCHHbgEibo

I just noticed the wires I ordered seperately are much thicker than the ones that came with the mutant X, could that be the problem?

 

[Wolfenstark]

Whats your coil diameter , what resistance is it reading ?
Dual coil or single ? Is that 0.4mm so around 26 gauge wire ?

 

[Atomiciser]

It's a dual coil Tobeco Mutation X rda, 26 gauge yes, I don't have an ohm meter. Coil diameter is about 4mm.

 

[Capt Donna]

Definitely for safety reasons an OHM Meter is a must for RDA RBA's anything you're building.
Sounds like you have a low ohm build that is too low for an Ego-C twist

 

[Capt Donna]

Simply put the flashing color changes are telling you that particular battery can not handle that low Ω build

If you have an MVP2 or a different Battery that gives you resistance - not recommended over a ohm meter but would identify the ohms

 

[Wolfenstark]

Thats probably around 0.5 - 0.6 Ω thats more power and taxing too much for an ego.

I've got 0.5Ω build at the moment running 35-40 watts

 

[Wolfenstark]

Ego batteries are not for sub ohm vaping.

You need batteries that can handle the amps being pulled from them.

Ones that can supply the power you need to the coils.

 

[Atomiciser]

Yes, that was it, I just tried the thinner wire and it seems to work now!

Hmm now I've got it working I can't say I'm that thrilled with the performance. Even with all the holes closed I can still get a lot of suction, with even one open it's like sucking through a straw. Also not getting a lot of smoke but I assume that's due to the dodgy coils I made.

 

[InTheShade]

Yes, that was it, I just tried the thinner wire and it seems to work now!

Hmm now I've got it working I can't say I'm that thrilled with the performance. Even with all the holes closed I can still get a lot of suction, with even one open it's like sucking through a straw. Also not getting a lot of smoke but I assume that's due to the dodgy coils I made.

You're still running it on an Ego?

 

[Atomiciser]

Yes still using the Ego.

The airflow problem seems to be a flaw with the design, I physically covered all the (closed) holes with my hands and the suction stopped.

 

[Atomiciser]

Should the coils be glowing, because they aren't?

 

[Wolfenstark]

On their own yes - when wicked and juiced there should be vapor.

 

[Chesh97]

My opinion, RDA's and RTA's are for more advanced vapers. If you don't have an ohms meter, you have no business building coils. Get the right equipment, and the right knowledge before doing that stuff.

 

[InTheShade]

Yes still using the Ego.

The airflow problem seems to be a flaw with the design, I physically covered all the (closed) holes with my hands and the suction stopped.

That atomizer is designed to be run hot and wide open - it'll produce clouds when used with the correct battery and built properly.

You are never going to get anything approaching even adequate performance using that atomizer on your Ego. You need a battery (or power source) that provides the ability to sub ohm safely and effectively.

If you really want to drip on an ego battery, there are ways - a simple IGO-L with a 1.3ohm microcoil will give a surprising amount of vapor. You can also buy non-rebuildable 510 atomizers - but running that Mutant X on an ego is just not going to work.

 

[Atomiciser]

I rebuilt it with the higher resistance wire and much tighter coils, around 2mm diameter and it's working fine now. The only thing other than airflow is the spitting, it seems to spit a fair bit, which is probably due to too much cotton wool...

What would you recommend as a battery for this atomiser? I want to move to mechanical mods asap as well, and an ohm meter will be the next purchase!

 

[BlkWolfMidnight]

Oye,

Good rule of thumb, be safe when playing with any RDA/RTA. Ohm Meter and High Amp batteries on a MOD that can handle it. I'm not saying not to rebuild in fact just the opposite however safety first.

Some equipment you'll need
MOD that can handle down to sub ohm builds, (I'm bias in saying do not go below .5 ever, ever, for any reason ever, but that's again my personal opinion)
Batteries rated at 30 amp or higher, this is a must and do not accept anything lower (keep in mind some are measured by something called Pulse output and this does not denote the true sustained amp draw of a battery or what load it can handle, ensure that the 30 amp is a sustained amp draw).
oHm Meter- Yes, before you even think about firing a mod up, ohm it out, then do it again to ensure that the first reading is right. Remember that batteries that vent can take off fingers if nothing else heat up quickly to cause 3'rd degree burns or worse.
Coiling Jig or Screw drivers- I can't express how important either of these two are, not only are they used to adjust your coils they are also used to have something solid to bend wire around. You can wing it around silica if your experienced in doing so.

Again, not saying to not do it but as you'll find those of us who do RDA's or RTA's ensure that safety first is followed, best thing to do is find someone at your local B&M shop or in the area that is (no offense) not a cloud chaser but someone who has been doing it for a while. Get with them and ask lots of questions, the more you learn on this matter then the safer you'll be. Please do ask lots of questions before diving in and also read over the RDA thread here on ECF before attempting anything on your own for a better break down of safety when playing with RDA's and RTA's

Welcome to ECF

 

[porkchopbun]

while you learning about battery safety, coil resistance in correlation to with power, Ohm's law, etc, I would recommend a nice regulated box mod device that can handle .3 ohm and above, 30 to 50 watts with good/authentic battery like the Samsung INR 18650 2500mAh

Then maybe after more research, etc, you can buy if you want a mech mod.

 

[BlkWolfMidnight]

I rebuilt it with the higher resistance wire and much tighter coils, around 2mm diameter and it's working fine now. The only thing other than airflow is the spitting, it seems to spit a fair bit, which is probably due to too much cotton wool...

What would you recommend as a battery for this atomiser? I want to move to mechanical mods asap as well, and an ohm meter will be the next purchase!

As a side note, the lower the gauge of wire the higher the amp draw is, I'm going to suspect you have a standard ego, the amp draw limit is minimal at best on those devices and if you are still using 26 gauge then your approaching if not exceeded the upper limits of the device. I'm not going to say that anything will happen, but if it does then the build quality and vapor production will be the least of your worries.

I can't stress enough the safety first of playing with the MOD you have, obviously your curious about RDA's which is great but without the understanding of what is happening then its a dangerous game to play.
Just because you know how to drive a car does not mean that you can safely drive a formula 1 race car for an example.

 

[Atomiciser]

Never fear, I've no desire to drive any sports cars! My main motivation is to keep costs down and maintain a modicum of self reliance for when the government does what governments do...

So this mutant X is basically useless without the right battery? That's a bummer, and it wasn't mentioned on the vendor's website either. I'll get the ohm meter next so.

 

[sparkky1]

Just order a DNA 30 from FT and couple batteries and your good to go...you'll wan't 20 amp high drain batteries