I too have the iTaste v3 and it is a mighty fine device for a newbie (like me). In the future I will get a MVP just for the increased battery life.
I tend to stray away from exotic builds, unregulated mods, and the like. I want something simple as grabbing a pack of cigarettes from my local store. I started with a simple ego clone kit with CE4 clearomizers which I clogged really quick. From there I moved to the bottom coil clearomizers T3S. Those clearos were a huge improvement to the CE4 but again I found a couple of issues with them. 1. They will flood on occasion and will need to be cleared. 2. The stock wicks never seemed to provide enough "flow" and I would end up tasting wick. Not disgusting, but definitely took away from the whole experience.
I then began to experiment with wicks and coils.
I first started with cotton balls. Those tasted like pure cotton. Gross!
Then I went to cotton yarn. Much improved but still a little "dry" and cottony.
Then on to organic cotton balls. Oh yes this was it!
Finally I have been experimenting with rayon which is an improvement to organic cotton, but if I run out of Rayon I will go back to organic cotton for sure.
I then got a few EVOD heads and played around with them. First I ditched the stock wicks and used organic cotton. WOW what a difference. Flavor is better, leaks are minimized if not eliminated, and cleaning is super easy. When using silica I'd have to dry burn the entire unit every night and was becoming a hassle. Once I had the EVOD heads mastered I upgraded to an Aerotank (similar to PT3) and was good to go in stock configuration for a little while. On my iTaste it never seemed to do any better than my EVODs which was disappointing. I fooled with the coil unit on the Aerotank and finally decided that I did not have enough power to sufficiently fire the device. I would venture to say that there are/will be many disappointed users on dual coil setups because they are not powering them correctly. I won't get into the volts and ohms but put it this way, if you are putting out 6 watts in a single coil setup when you step up to a dual setup you will only be putting 3 watts into each coil which is essentially half your heat capacity per coil, and IMO this isn't an ideal situation.
However I did find a work around. What I did was take an EVOD head that I rolled myself (see below). Now since that head is shorter than the stock Aerotank head I had to seal the gap. What I did was take the silicone grommet and invert it on top of the EVOD grommet so the stock EVOD grommet is in its normal configuration and the Aerotank grommet is on top of it upside down. This seals the extra space perfectly and provides a damn good vape at 8 watts from my iTaste. It makes my purchase of the Aerotank one that I DO NOT regret one bit.
So in summary for your PT3 I would get an EVOD head, leave it stock for now but I'd HIGHLY suggest to rewick with organic cotton, take the grommet from your PT3 coil unit and flip it upside down and place it on the EVOD head and install the whole thing in your PT3. I'd bet that it will vape like never before.
Hope this helps as I may have jumbled a few things up and will proof it some more it a little later.
I posted this in another thread but I think it may help a little:
FWIW 6 wraps of 30 ga kanthal around a #0 precision screwdriver will yield 1.7 to 1.9 ohms with 95% of them being 1.8 ohms. The screwdriver is too big to fit in the channel so you will have to drop the coil in on something smaller than the mandrel you wound it on. I pull my wraps tight and compress them as best I can. Then I slightly expand it on the mandrel so that there is slight spacing between them. IMO a tight bunched coil is too hot for a bottom coil clearo and you will start to taste the wick. The 30 ga is much more resilient to rewicking as I have seen the 32 distort like crazy if the wick snags the coil during extraction.
I'd recommend dry burning the coil before wicking as some contaminants may get on the coil while you are wrapping it. (skin cells, oils, and etc)
For wicks organic cotton is the standard for now. You will need to use a portion that is about the same diameter of the coil. Any more and you will taste wick. Any less and it will leak.
If you try rayon then you will need a piece about 2x the diameter of the coil and give it a slight twist while putting it in the coil. It will need to drag a little on the coil and this is where 30 ga shines as it will maintain its shape unlike the 32.
Now for wick break-in and priming:
Before I replace the chimney I drop about 3 drops of my liquid on the dry wick. Then I pop on the chimney and silicone grommet. I then look closely at the wick and make sure that there are NO air gaps in between the coil housing and the wick. If so then I try and spread the wick out a little. If that doesn't work I go back to the sink, wash the coil unit out and rewick it. IMO the silicone grommet should be slightly compressing the wick. That is what I look for to ensure no leaks.
Once I am satisfied with the wicking I fill the clearo and then install the coil unit. When screwing down the coil unit I twist a few turns one way then back it off a little and then do it again until it is tight. I have found the sometimes the wick material will hit the wall of the clearo housing causing it to bunch on one side. This twist/untwist method seems to work for me.
Now I install it on my vv and set it to 6W. I take a few dry primer pulls until I see a bubble or two. Then I hit the fire button and take a few more short pulls. Then I am on to the longer pulls until the vapor production is what I am expecting. Once satisfied with the vapor production I then turn up the power. For me 7.5-8W is the best for most of my juices.
I am not an expert by any means but I am an engineer by trade and I tend to be very meticulous about things and either write down what I do (especially coil "recipes"), or just remember them.
Honestly it took me longer to write this post than it takes to do the entire process from the beginning.
That's just my experiences. YMMV.
Now rebuilding isn't for everyone and I totally understand that, but I think everyone should at a minimum learn to rewick especially with bottom coil clearos. It was a night and day difference between stock silica and organic cotton. The maintenance is super simple, just carefully pull out the old wick, dry burn, rinse, dry burn again, slip some cotton in the coil, lightly put a few drops on the wick to prime it and you are off and running.
Obviously that's just my opinion.
