Just had a No.7SS Micro PT crap out on me for the 4th time. I found after waiting nearly 2 weeks for each replacement got OLD. I decided to take matters into my own hands. I found that the pressure switches are the most rinky-dink component of the entire set-up and ultimately what fails time and time again. I decided to break out the flux and soldering iron and make my own fail-proof model. Introducing the new and improved MANUAL push-button PT!
I had an old wireless mouse, removed the button circuitboard and removed the switch from the circuitboard by heating up the old solder and prying the switch away from the board itself with a small standard screwdriver.
After that, I placed the button on a small dab of 2-part 5min. epoxy onto the shaft by the filter and let it set up. After that, it was just a matter of soldering the wires correctly, with some trial and error hook-ups to the PC.
On this model, the white wire coming out of the shaft was the ground. The black one was the positive to the atomizer. You can hook them up either way as long as you keep your pole (+/-) connection consistant throughout the entire mod and not hook anything up backwards. (no neg. to pos!)
View attachment 27404
Yeah, that is a lot of electrical tape. I wrapped the entire assembly tightly, then cut the mouse button out with an exact-o knife. It's UGLY, but man it delivers. Oh, and don't knock my binder clip with a thumb-tack magnet. This way I can stick it to anything around that's metal, cabinet, Dashboard, etc. so it's not sliding off my desk breaking connections. (if you do this, do NOT place ANY magnet to your PC around your hard drive. It could possibly wipe information from it and leave you in a world of hurt!!!)
GOOD LUCK ! Feel free to ask questions, although I am unfamiliar with any other brands. Just the No.7 SS Micro scenarios. (I have been modding those for about a year) I do have a Joy E Stainless Manual 510 on order as I've heard they are the best all around to get. I wil probably be posting mods on it soon.
Thanks for reading!
I had an old wireless mouse, removed the button circuitboard and removed the switch from the circuitboard by heating up the old solder and prying the switch away from the board itself with a small standard screwdriver.
After that, I placed the button on a small dab of 2-part 5min. epoxy onto the shaft by the filter and let it set up. After that, it was just a matter of soldering the wires correctly, with some trial and error hook-ups to the PC.
On this model, the white wire coming out of the shaft was the ground. The black one was the positive to the atomizer. You can hook them up either way as long as you keep your pole (+/-) connection consistant throughout the entire mod and not hook anything up backwards. (no neg. to pos!)
View attachment 27404
Yeah, that is a lot of electrical tape. I wrapped the entire assembly tightly, then cut the mouse button out with an exact-o knife. It's UGLY, but man it delivers. Oh, and don't knock my binder clip with a thumb-tack magnet. This way I can stick it to anything around that's metal, cabinet, Dashboard, etc. so it's not sliding off my desk breaking connections. (if you do this, do NOT place ANY magnet to your PC around your hard drive. It could possibly wipe information from it and leave you in a world of hurt!!!)
GOOD LUCK ! Feel free to ask questions, although I am unfamiliar with any other brands. Just the No.7 SS Micro scenarios. (I have been modding those for about a year) I do have a Joy E Stainless Manual 510 on order as I've heard they are the best all around to get. I wil probably be posting mods on it soon.
Thanks for reading!
