NI200 coils...standard or micro?
- Thread starter BlueridgeDog
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I've been trying micro coils and I'm really starting to hate this chip.
2mm ID micro with 30g Ni200 11 wraps came out to .19 but it bounces between .18 and .20
At 400-430 degrees and 10 watts it flashes Temp Protected constantly.
2mm ID micro with 30g Ni200 11 wraps came out to .19 but it bounces between .18 and .20
At 400-430 degrees and 10 watts it flashes Temp Protected constantly.
Using a machine screw is brilliant. I will get a few in the AM to try out. Excellent. I build up four micros tonight and I really think they are not the way to go with this chip.
Here is a bit more specifics that should help get off to a good start......
I don't know what you are building on, but with 8/9 wraps you shouldn't need to even pinch the coil tighter. Just keep it on the screw as you mount it and once it is locked down just back out the screw. Doing that will keep the coil perfect while you attach the legs. If it is a bit too wide, give it a quick pinch after you lock it down and it should spring back a little tighter, but still nicely spaced. After it is mounted I will raise my temperature to 600F and dry fire the coil. It will only slightly glow for a second before TP kicks in, but it is enough to be sure you don't have any hot spots or hot legs.
It is also a good idea (I highly recommend it) to know the resistance of the coil before you dry fire it, and don't attach your coil to atty while it is on the DNA40 device. I always build mine on my ohm reader, check the resistance (should be around .11 to .14), then put the atty on my rDNA and see if I get the same reading. Dry fire like I said above, then remove the atty and wick it. The coil needs to be at room temp before you put it back on your mod, it is very important that the chip gets the correct base reading of your coil before you start using it.
If it is still warm you are going to get a higher reading and temp control will be off. If you get a higher reading, let the mod sit with the atty still attached for about 10 minutes, then check it again, it will probably have come down a bit. If you are at the resistance you should be, +/- .01, then you are good to go, if it is still too high, let it sit another 10 minutes. By now, if you have been letting it sit and not firing it, you should be at the correct resistance, if not then you might have an issue. This whole letting it sit scenario can be avoided by just making sure the coil is at room temp before you put the atty on to use it the first time.
This DNA40 and nickel is tricky, but once you get to understand the process the chip goes through a bit better it gets easier.
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The bouncing is part and parcel to the wire. When you put energy through the wire, it heats up, which increases the resistance slightly, resulting to the ohms climbing to 0.2Ω. When it cools down, the resistance drops. There's also the physical expansion of the metal when it heats up, then the contraction when it cools, which will make it 'swell' and 'shrink' in place, including underneath whatever's holding the wire down (screw posts, post hole, etc.). That could very well account for the coil dropping down to 0.18Ω, even if you have it fairly well tightened down. The crystalline structure of the metal will also change, in some cases increasing the resistance of the wire, in some cases decreasing the resistance.
As to the temp protection, while it could be a faulty chip, one must remember that 30 ga. wire is rather small in diameter. This means it will heat up faster than a larger gauge wire, which in turn means, even at 10W, you will hit 400° to 430° quickly. I use 28 ga. myself, and bounce between 25W and 35W, and I tend to hit temperature protected mode with longer pulls. When I was using 30 ga., I was hitting it within the first second of a pull. what that most likely means is that you're getting nearly instant coil heating, which isn't a bad thing in my opinion. Now, conversely to that, if you have long legs in your mod, you might be heating up the legs (remember, the DNA40 take into account the legs as well as the coil in temperature protected mode) before the coil itself, which could lead to a misreading by the chip. I know in my Rose V2 the legs heating up was a problem I ran into until I started using twisted coils (3 strand 30 or 2 strand 28), but your mileage may vary. The easiest way to test this, presuming you have an RDA or something like a Kayfun/etc., is to make sure your wick's saturated, remove your top/tank section (leaving the coil visible) and fire it with the saturated wick in place. If you see the legs heating up visibly (the problem I mentioned with the Rose V2), that could be where part of your problem is.
All that said, if you are not getting a nice vape out of it, and you don't have long/prematurely heating legs, y'might've gotten a chip with problems in the temperature sensing circuitry. If you've asked for suggestions on here, and haven't had a satisfactory end Evolvapor an email, they might be able to help you out.
As for me, I've had decent luck with both contact and spaced coils, in both 'microcoil' and 'macrocoil' formfactors. In my opinion, it's personal preference, as both have their advantages and disadvantages. I personally prefer slightly warmer vapes, so I lean slightly towards contact microcoils with Ni200, followed by contact macrocoils, then spaced microcoils. I don't really like spaced macrocoils, but as I said above, your mileage may vary.
Anyway, keep on vaping, everyone!
-Laters...!
kgs-wy
I have a glitchy dna 40. Having trouble with my battery meter, ohm meter, and possibly the temp sensor (that one is really hard to double check). I sent an email to Evolv, and they got back to me the next day.....with a justification as to why my battery meter was acting the way it was, and why it was just fine. However, their explanation didn't make sense, and didn't fit with what my mod was doing. I sent another email asking more questions, and..........DEAD SILENCE.
Good luck with Evolv. They have your money. You're on your own
Did you build your own mod?
The only problems I have heard with the DNA chips was the glitchy screen. The ohm and/or temp wonkiness was usually user error, or an error in the mod. This is the first battery meter issue I have heard of.
Explain what is going on, there are some pretty intelligent people around here that might be able to help you out.
Having had a few replaced Randy, the problems with the DNA40 are much greater then wonky screens, the chip, software and PCB are all issues, which is why they're on their third rev of the board
No, I bought a mod from a big name in the dna 40 conversation. I won't say who though, because I don't truly think they have any blame in the issue
OK, long story.....
*note...I work 24-36 hour shifts in every conceivable environment. But hey, it lets me vape more
So, I noticed that my battery was reading pretty full for a really long time. Still at 75% after 12 hours or so. I just thought, wow! what great battery life. Then one day, I noticed that my battery meter read 25% when it "woke up", but then filled up to 75% and stayed there. I kept an eye on that. A fresh battery would read full on the meter for 8ish hours of moderate vaping, even upon wake up. Then it would drop to 75%, and stay there for several hours. Except when it woke up, the battery meter would read 25%, then fill up to 75%. After awhile, the meter would drop to 50% and show a sliver upon wakeup. Eventually, it would drop to 25%, and show empty on wakeup. Once it got to 25%, you could almost watch the meter fall. Then the low batt would flash for a draw or three, then dead. This is not really a big deal. I realize that the battery meter is actually correct upon wake up, so just keep an eye on it. Still want to get it fixed, but I'm not upset.
However, it gets worse. I'm usually very careful about my batteries, so I rarely get to the point where they die on me. I got into the habit of plugging in at 25%. But one day, I plugged in then got called out on a job about 20 min later. I looked at the meter just to see if I had gotten anything in that 20 minutes, and it read 75%. Well, that's not right, but I can't vape on the job anyway, so I put it in my pocket. After the job, I pulled it out, and the battery meter (at wake up, which I assumed to be more correct) still read 75%. But within 10 min of vaping, it had dropped back to 25%. Ok. I plugged it into the 12v on the drive back, and pass through vaped for roughly an hour and a half. When I got back, it showed fully charged. I decided to see how long that lasted, so I didn't plug it in. I clocked out, packed up, and started the trip home. I vaped all the way. Got home, still 75%. An hour later...dead. I swapped out the battery, threw the old one on the charger, and yes, it was dead.
I found the problem (?) with the ohm meter quite by accident. I like to have a new coil and wick when I leave for work since there's no way of building while I'm on the job. I fell asleep on the sofa, and didn't build my coil the night before as usual. I woke up, and rushed a coil just to get out the door. As usual, I coiled, mounted, then turned off the temp protection in order to fire and squish. Turned off the mod to wick, put the tank together, filled, and dashed. I vaped for probably 16 hours very unsatisfactorily. I blamed the rushed coil since the ohm meter was reading 0.24, and I usually get a 0.12-0.14. Then I noticed that my temp protection was off. Duh! I turned it back on, and reset everything to my norm. The vape was sooooo much better. However, the ohm meter was now reading 0.12. Half of what it was. Now, this may actually be within specs, but I wouldn't think so. An ohm is an ohm no matter what the material of the wire. Why would it read one level in temp protection, and double without? Given that this device is supposed to use the resistance of your coil to help regulate the watts in order to keep people from over taxing their batteries and blowing up their faces. So a reading that's that far off wouldn't be a good thing.
So, I figure I got a glitchy board. No big deal, first gen stuff always has glitches. I'll just email the vender, and ask if it's a known problem. If so, they can tell me the timeframe for a fix. If not, now they know, and we can discuss a repair. That's where I started to get annoyed. After sending them roughly the same description as above, I got back a canned email:
The metering happens in real time only when the device is firing. If you are using a nickel coil and temperature control, you will notice that the meter will behave a bit erratically. Here is why, it is giving you a forecast of remaining battery life based on the last wattage level the device was outputting. Let's say you have a ni200 coil set to 420 degrees and 35 watts. At the beginning of the draw you will likely be close to 35 watts but as the coil comes to temperature the wattage level will be reduced to let's say 6 watts. When you let off the fire button the last wattage output was 6 watts and the battery meter is reflecting a remaining battery life forecast for 6 watts not the 35 watt set point. Hope this answers your question.
Ok, so let's talk about the problems with this. One, this is not the behavior I'm describing, so did you even read the email? Two, I've never heard of a battery meter "predicting" anything. It tells you how much charge is left, just like your gas gauge tells you how much gas you have in your car. Three, there is no interest in helping me remedy the situation, only reasons why I don't really have a problem.
So, I emailed back. I used the gas gauge metaphor. I pointed out that the spec sheet for the board states that the battery meter shows "the current state of charge of the battery". Why is he now contradicting that? I described the problem again, and again asked if this was a known problem. I also emailed Evolv to ask them the same question thinking maybe the vendor just didn't want to honor the warranty. The response from Evolv was identical to the one I initially got from the vendor. The response from the vendor was to tell me that the fuel gauge analogy didn't work because horsepower output on a car is constant where the wattage on the dna 40 is not. Do I need to point out the flaw in that logic? Not everyone can be a car guy. He offered to replace the unit "if you want, so you'll be satisfied", but suggested I wait a month or so. Still no answer to the direct question of is this a known problem. There were more emails between the vendor and myself. It turned into an exercise in self control. I also emailed Evolv again with essentially the same email I sent the vendor the second time.
Finally, I called the vendor, and somehow got the guy I had been emailing with. I got the distinct impression that he wanted to tell me things, but wasn't allowed. Like it's some big secret that the dna 40 boards have problems. I finally got him to tell me that if I wait until January to replace my unit, the problem should be fixed. So, he essentially admitted that this is a known problem which will be fixed in the next batch of boards due out in January. Fine, thank you. That's all I wanted. But why the hell did I have to practically come down to the office and sit on your desk to get that information? Why would you suggest that you'd replace it to make me happy? I am insulted and angry about the treatment I received. The problem with the board? It'll get fixed, and I'll make due until it does.
Oh, Evolv? I gave them a call too. They haven't returned my email or my call as of yet. I won't hold my breath.
OK, long story.....
*note...I work 24-36 hour shifts in every conceivable environment. But hey, it lets me vape more
So, I noticed that my battery was reading pretty full for a really long time. Still at 75% after 12 hours or so. I just thought, wow! what great battery life. Then one day, I noticed that my battery meter read 25% when it "woke up", but then filled up to 75% and stayed there. I kept an eye on that. A fresh battery would read full on the meter for 8ish hours of moderate vaping, even upon wake up. Then it would drop to 75%, and stay there for several hours. Except when it woke up, the battery meter would read 25%, then fill up to 75%. After awhile, the meter would drop to 50% and show a sliver upon wakeup. Eventually, it would drop to 25%, and show empty on wakeup. Once it got to 25%, you could almost watch the meter fall. Then the low batt would flash for a draw or three, then dead. This is not really a big deal. I realize that the battery meter is actually correct upon wake up, so just keep an eye on it. Still want to get it fixed, but I'm not upset.
However, it gets worse. I'm usually very careful about my batteries, so I rarely get to the point where they die on me. I got into the habit of plugging in at 25%. But one day, I plugged in then got called out on a job about 20 min later. I looked at the meter just to see if I had gotten anything in that 20 minutes, and it read 75%. Well, that's not right, but I can't vape on the job anyway, so I put it in my pocket. After the job, I pulled it out, and the battery meter (at wake up, which I assumed to be more correct) still read 75%. But within 10 min of vaping, it had dropped back to 25%. Ok. I plugged it into the 12v on the drive back, and pass through vaped for roughly an hour and a half. When I got back, it showed fully charged. I decided to see how long that lasted, so I didn't plug it in. I clocked out, packed up, and started the trip home. I vaped all the way. Got home, still 75%. An hour later...dead. I swapped out the battery, threw the old one on the charger, and yes, it was dead.
I found the problem (?) with the ohm meter quite by accident. I like to have a new coil and wick when I leave for work since there's no way of building while I'm on the job. I fell asleep on the sofa, and didn't build my coil the night before as usual. I woke up, and rushed a coil just to get out the door. As usual, I coiled, mounted, then turned off the temp protection in order to fire and squish. Turned off the mod to wick, put the tank together, filled, and dashed. I vaped for probably 16 hours very unsatisfactorily. I blamed the rushed coil since the ohm meter was reading 0.24, and I usually get a 0.12-0.14. Then I noticed that my temp protection was off. Duh! I turned it back on, and reset everything to my norm. The vape was sooooo much better. However, the ohm meter was now reading 0.12. Half of what it was. Now, this may actually be within specs, but I wouldn't think so. An ohm is an ohm no matter what the material of the wire. Why would it read one level in temp protection, and double without? Given that this device is supposed to use the resistance of your coil to help regulate the watts in order to keep people from over taxing their batteries and blowing up their faces. So a reading that's that far off wouldn't be a good thing.
So, I figure I got a glitchy board. No big deal, first gen stuff always has glitches. I'll just email the vender, and ask if it's a known problem. If so, they can tell me the timeframe for a fix. If not, now they know, and we can discuss a repair. That's where I started to get annoyed. After sending them roughly the same description as above, I got back a canned email:
The metering happens in real time only when the device is firing. If you are using a nickel coil and temperature control, you will notice that the meter will behave a bit erratically. Here is why, it is giving you a forecast of remaining battery life based on the last wattage level the device was outputting. Let's say you have a ni200 coil set to 420 degrees and 35 watts. At the beginning of the draw you will likely be close to 35 watts but as the coil comes to temperature the wattage level will be reduced to let's say 6 watts. When you let off the fire button the last wattage output was 6 watts and the battery meter is reflecting a remaining battery life forecast for 6 watts not the 35 watt set point. Hope this answers your question.
Ok, so let's talk about the problems with this. One, this is not the behavior I'm describing, so did you even read the email? Two, I've never heard of a battery meter "predicting" anything. It tells you how much charge is left, just like your gas gauge tells you how much gas you have in your car. Three, there is no interest in helping me remedy the situation, only reasons why I don't really have a problem.
So, I emailed back. I used the gas gauge metaphor. I pointed out that the spec sheet for the board states that the battery meter shows "the current state of charge of the battery". Why is he now contradicting that? I described the problem again, and again asked if this was a known problem. I also emailed Evolv to ask them the same question thinking maybe the vendor just didn't want to honor the warranty. The response from Evolv was identical to the one I initially got from the vendor. The response from the vendor was to tell me that the fuel gauge analogy didn't work because horsepower output on a car is constant where the wattage on the dna 40 is not. Do I need to point out the flaw in that logic? Not everyone can be a car guy. He offered to replace the unit "if you want, so you'll be satisfied", but suggested I wait a month or so. Still no answer to the direct question of is this a known problem. There were more emails between the vendor and myself. It turned into an exercise in self control. I also emailed Evolv again with essentially the same email I sent the vendor the second time.
Finally, I called the vendor, and somehow got the guy I had been emailing with. I got the distinct impression that he wanted to tell me things, but wasn't allowed. Like it's some big secret that the dna 40 boards have problems. I finally got him to tell me that if I wait until January to replace my unit, the problem should be fixed. So, he essentially admitted that this is a known problem which will be fixed in the next batch of boards due out in January. Fine, thank you. That's all I wanted. But why the hell did I have to practically come down to the office and sit on your desk to get that information? Why would you suggest that you'd replace it to make me happy? I am insulted and angry about the treatment I received. The problem with the board? It'll get fixed, and I'll make due until it does.
Oh, Evolv? I gave them a call too. They haven't returned my email or my call as of yet. I won't hold my breath.
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I will say the battery meter response they gave you does make sense. Your gas gauge was made to tell you exactly the amount of gas that is in your tank, it doesn't take horsepower used or any other factors into account. However, you are comparing the DNA chip to the wrong meter. Not all cars have this (mine does), but you should be comparing your battery meter to the computerized "average miles per gallon" display some cars do have. That will adjust based on how you are driving. That display will also tell me how many miles I have before my tank is empty. That number will go up and down based on driving habits, much like your battery meter will change based on the wattage used. It is predicting the life span. I have a rDNA, so my meter may very well do this as well, but I have never really paid attention since it is on the bottom.
I do not know the specifics, but I have seen that the ohm reading will be vastly different in voltage mode versus the reading in temperature protected mode. I think it has something to do with, while in TP mode the coil displays what it determines as the base reading, but in voltage mode it displays the the current reading, which for nickel is much higher when it is warm to hot. Something like that, others can explain it better.
I'm not saying you don't have a iffy board, but they are not completely off base with their responses.
I do not know the specifics, but I have seen that the ohm reading will be vastly different in voltage mode versus the reading in temperature protected mode. I think it has something to do with, while in TP mode the coil displays what it determines as the base reading, but in voltage mode it displays the the current reading, which for nickel is much higher when it is warm to hot. Something like that, others can explain it better.
I'm not saying you don't have a iffy board, but they are not completely off base with their responses.
Can you refer me to just one other piece of electronic equipment that has a battery meter like this? Everything else I own, have ever owned, has a battery meter that shows the actual amount of charge in the battery. Otherwise, as soon as you took your phone off the charger, and checked your email, the battery meter would drop. Not to mention, it would fluctuate all the time based on which apps you use (since different apps and capabilities use different amount of power). I don't know about you, but my battery meters only go down, and pretty steadily. My dna 40 battery meter is all over the place. By up to 50%. I do have that gauge that predicts the number of miles I have left on my tank, as well as the average miles per gallon. Both fluctuate, the the miles left gauge fluctuate as much as 100 miles in my commute to work. So, essentially a useless piece of tech. My average miles per gallon fluctuates much less, maybe 0.1 if I do a lot of city driving, but holds pretty steady with my normal driving habits. When I get low on gas, I don't rely on that gauge to decide if I need to stop for gas now, or later. I look at the gas gauge, and decide if I need to fuel up or risk needing to phone a friend while I sit on the side of the road outta gas. So, if the battery meter actually predicts battery life, a battery which reads 50% would drop if you upped your watts, and increase if you dropped them. This does not happen, it behaves as I described, which in no way is like what it would be doing if this was the way the meter worked. Additionally, the miles left meter works by telling you a quantity. A battery meter is just a percentage. What use is knowing that my predicted battery life is 50%? What does that mean? How does that translate into time? Oh, and let's not forget, the spec sheet says that the battery meter is a "reflection of the current state of the battery". If what they're saying is true, why not change the spec sheet? It's on their website, it wouldn't be that hard. Oh yeah, a false spec sheet is false advertising, and can be litigated. Bogus info in emails is a lot harder to take to court. Not that I would go that far.
As far as the ohm meter, you may be right. I'm not an electrician, so that's a lot harder for me to judge. But I did try checking it on a brand new build. I coiled, fired and squished, and wicked as usual. Let the whole thing cool to room temperature, and put it on the meter. A quick tap of the button (not enough to actually heat the coil), and click the up button to let it know it's a new chip, and it measures the ohms and displays them. I usually do this before I actually fire the tank just in case I screwed something up pulling the wick through. Next I switched it over to watts mode. Another quick tap for a new reading. Guess what? watts mode was still roughly double. So, the heat making nickel change resistance may be true, but doesn't necessarily seem to play here. Besides, as I understand it, the temperature of the coil is not actually measured, but the ohms and watts are used to determine temp with math. Which in turn is used to adjust watts to keep the temp at or below the set limit. According to the interview by PBusardo, Brandon from Evolv says the temp is accurate +/- 10 degrees. We also need to note that the ohms reading is used by the board to limit watts if the battery can't handle the draw, so people don't blow their face or fingers off with the wrong (or a fake) battery. So, a variance of 0.12 could be the difference between limits kicking in or not.
Really, I like the mod. I think it's a good piece of kit with some excellent features, and awesome battery life. I wasn't even upset that my board is glitchy. It happens with electronics all the time. As long as the company you bought it from honors the warranty, it's just an inconvenience. What torqued me off was the behavior of the vendor, and the silence from Evolv. Don't send me a justification for battery variances that doesn't match the behavior of the device. Read the email, and respond in an appropriate manner. Not with a canned excuse from the manufacturer.
As far as the ohm meter, you may be right. I'm not an electrician, so that's a lot harder for me to judge. But I did try checking it on a brand new build. I coiled, fired and squished, and wicked as usual. Let the whole thing cool to room temperature, and put it on the meter. A quick tap of the button (not enough to actually heat the coil), and click the up button to let it know it's a new chip, and it measures the ohms and displays them. I usually do this before I actually fire the tank just in case I screwed something up pulling the wick through. Next I switched it over to watts mode. Another quick tap for a new reading. Guess what? watts mode was still roughly double. So, the heat making nickel change resistance may be true, but doesn't necessarily seem to play here. Besides, as I understand it, the temperature of the coil is not actually measured, but the ohms and watts are used to determine temp with math. Which in turn is used to adjust watts to keep the temp at or below the set limit. According to the interview by PBusardo, Brandon from Evolv says the temp is accurate +/- 10 degrees. We also need to note that the ohms reading is used by the board to limit watts if the battery can't handle the draw, so people don't blow their face or fingers off with the wrong (or a fake) battery. So, a variance of 0.12 could be the difference between limits kicking in or not.
Really, I like the mod. I think it's a good piece of kit with some excellent features, and awesome battery life. I wasn't even upset that my board is glitchy. It happens with electronics all the time. As long as the company you bought it from honors the warranty, it's just an inconvenience. What torqued me off was the behavior of the vendor, and the silence from Evolv. Don't send me a justification for battery variances that doesn't match the behavior of the device. Read the email, and respond in an appropriate manner. Not with a canned excuse from the manufacturer.
The "average miles per gallon" was simply a reference to the metering I was talking about. A more accurate comparison is the "current miles per gallon" which measures in real time and fluctuates wildly depending how hard the engine is working.
Evolv has been working with a lot of people here to correct their problems. I don't think they would attempt to justify a problem with a BS excuse. Since the battery meter is part of the firmware it seems like something that would be effecting people on a larger scale. The possibility always exits that you could have a one off problem though.
Evolv has been working with a lot of people here to correct their problems. I don't think they would attempt to justify a problem with a BS excuse. Since the battery meter is part of the firmware it seems like something that would be effecting people on a larger scale. The possibility always exits that you could have a one off problem though.
Again, I ask, point me to just one other device which has a battery meter that works that way. And if that is in fact how it works, why does the spec sheet contradict it?
I may very well have a one off problem. Like I said, the issue is not the glitch, its the response, or rather lack thereof, from Evolv. If they're so eager to help people, why haven't they replied to my email beyond telling me my battery meter is fine even though it's NOT acting like they say it will?
Do you work for them? Because you seem to be just as dismissive of everything I'm describing.
I may very well have a one off problem. Like I said, the issue is not the glitch, its the response, or rather lack thereof, from Evolv. If they're so eager to help people, why haven't they replied to my email beyond telling me my battery meter is fine even though it's NOT acting like they say it will?
Do you work for them? Because you seem to be just as dismissive of everything I'm describing.
If you make a coil that does not cut off with the temp control then the battery meter will be consistent .
Ok. do you have any suggestions?
currently I'm running a nickel 10/9 3mm spaced coil with japanese cotton wick in a Kayfun lite V2. My settings on my dna 40 are temp limit 450 and 16-20 watts
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A well made coil that is firmly connected and wicked well does not throttle down to the cut off. The temp you set it at and the wattage your trying to put through it can also cause that.
Set the temp to a good taste then if its cutting out bring the wattage down until its hovering at about what you have set it at. More practice perfecting nickel coils and you can get them vaping at high wattages.
My kayfun can do 35w at 420f and maybe drop 1watt the end of a really long pull, all my drippers can run at 40w and even the squape r can do a solid 40w. 420-450f is the hottest i get.
I'm open to suggestions. Currently, I build my nickel like I built my kanthal. 3mm mandrel with 9/10 wraps. Put it on the build deck, and wrap the wire all the way around the screw (or at least 75%) and tighten. straighten the coil, and tighten again. I put that on my mod, go out of temp protection, and fire the coil. Squeeze the coils together, making sure there are no overlaps. Take it off the mod, wick it with Japanese cotton. I don't pull my cotton up throught the chimney then tuck it back. I found it didn't wick well for me. So I wet the cotton with juice, and arrange it against the deck. Then I put the chimney on making sure I don't catch any wick in the threads. I then put it back on the mod, a quick check of the ohms, then fire it to make sure I don't have any obvious hot spots. Then I put the top of the chimney back on, and put the top onto that. I put the bottom ring on, and a little juice in the well. I vape that way a few times making sure I don't vape the well dry. Then I check the cotton and make sure its still wet. If all goes according to plan, I close it all up and go about my day.
I don't always hit the temp protection, but if I chain vape or pull extra long, it will hit. I don't vape at high watts (this morning I'm at 12), and temp set at 450. Still hitting the temp limit.
So, what am I doing wrong? Or should be doing different?
non contact coils are easier to get right if your hitting the temp, you could try a spaced coil like a lot of people have been using to overcome the problems that you are getting.
I use a nickel/ kanthal clapton coil in my kayfun thats full contact, but my drippers are all 29g twisted or full nickel clapton coils, maybe twisting the wire into a larger more stable size helps with being able to keep them in contact but a single strand coil can be troublesome as a contact micro with the amount of wraps that we need for nickel.
The other post on dna40 nickel builds goes through this in much greater detail.
and make sure that you put the build on the dna40 at room temp so that the board gets an accurate base reading.
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