Ni200... I'm about to throw in the towel.

[bulldog63h]

I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm running an Ni200 micro coil in my Russian ( authintic) and having no trouble at all. My
Plume Vail (clone) on the other hand, I can't get that f'ing thing to work no matter what. If I knew what I was doing wrong, I could work toward doing it right. That's whats ticking me off the most. i don't know what I'm doing wrong.
i have tried spaced and contact coils, large and small inner diameter, short and long legs. With different combos of each, somtimes, even with temp control on, I get burnt hits, other times temp protect kicks in way to early and i get less vapor than my russian produces. I'm about to slam my face through a concrete wall. please, someone help me.

This is the last build I've done. Temp control won't allow me to get a decent vape.

 

[chia]

Some rda/rta work well with nickel so I read.. I have the same issues.. My K4/nickel work for 3 tanks, change coil, it won't read no matter what.. ;( so my K4 is on kanthal now. Will see how it goes when I change coils in my other 2 rta soon..
A few conditions needs to be met for nickel to work.. I've learn(I hope)... If it work ok.. If not then go back to kanthal build.. Dun sweat it.. Enjoy your vape

 

[nz1001]

DNA 40 relies on ohm readings to derive the temp. Ni200 coil resistance is very low to begin with - therefore the readings must be accurate.

Some of the factors for your issue might be:
Atty 510 connection causing slight resistance or short
Atty post/screw not clean, making less than ideal contact w coil
Atty construction (bad quality) causing slight resistance or short

Perhaps try a different Atty.

 

[bulldog63h]

DNA 40 relies on ohm readings to derive the temp. Ni200 coil resistance is very low to begin with - therefore the readings must be accurate.

Some of the factors for your issue might be:
Atty 510 connection causing slight resistance or short
Atty post/screw not clean, making less than ideal contact w coil
Atty construction (bad quality) causing slight resistance or short

Perhaps try a different Atty.

The crappy part is I don't have another dripper and (even with clones) cant afford another at the moment. My vape budget was blown getting my RDNA and Russian. I guess I'll stick with kanthal for now. Maybe next month I can get another dripper to try.
Maybe you guys could give me some suggestions? This is the first dripper I've ever owned.

Edit: Please keep in mind I can only afford clones at the moment.

 

[NOVA jon]

Oh yea, I feel your pain!! I've got 2 lemos that I've been running nickel builds on. I try to do the exact same on both but different juices to try and compare how "gunky" the juices are.

Fast forward: one of my lemos is rock solid, build after build, wick after wick, juice after juice. The other one, I want to chuck that thing as far as I can!!

I took the problem child all the way apart tonight, making sure to thoroughly clean each part and dry. Put that little bugger back together and again, tried to duplicate my functional build on the golden child!

Attempt 1: fail! This thing went from bad to worse. Ohms started at .34, then .45, .57, .74........ Jumped out of TP........... Warming up the throwing arm........... ...!!!!!!

Attempt 2: I'll show this little SOB, let's try something simple, instead of wrapping around the screw heads, try trapping the leads instead, just make sure it's good and tight. Not expecting much, filled it up and gave it a whirl!

Result: so far, so good. Steady ohms, TP only kicking in if really pushing it while chain vaping. Couple primer puffs and it back to wicking well.

Conclusion: might not totally be the nickel that is the issue. Might have to fine tune your approach with each atty. it would be nice to think that each one is 100% the exact same as the next one but I'll bet each one is just ever so slightly different!!

I can only let you know my experiences and how I've had to overcome the problems when they happen. It might be something as simple as cleaning or the way you make your connections who knows. All I know is that when you get it right, wowwy, it's nice!

 

[sunnata]

You could try to use a twisted kanthal + ni200 build to see if it helps with possible contact issues. or if you're not looking to test with twisted wire, you could simply add a bit of kanthal at the connections to help keep things in place.

somtimes, even with temp control on, I get burnt hits

I've only experienced this once, it was just a hot leg on the coil

 

[bwhitt]

I have my authentic Plume Veil 2.0 running a 0.10 dual coil build. twisted 30 gauge nickel wire. It produces a good amount of vapor and flavor, but I am still experimenting with the builds the get more vapor production. I like my current build, but it does not produce as much vapor as my 0.5 dual coil 26 gauge kanthal builds do. The twisted wire is a lot easier to work with and you can tighten down the screws without cutting your wire.

Sounds like you might have a connection issue to me.

 

[nz1001]

Give this a try.

Like NOVA suggested, trap the coil ends here

or, stuff some NR wire inside the post up to there - so the coil end won't pop when you tight down the screw.

 

[Millah]

^^What he said. The DNA 40 needs a SOLID connection to get an accurate reading. Otherwise the TC is completely unpredictable. Trapping the wire under the screw head, instead of inside the post holes, will give you a much more stable connection. The nickel wire is very soft, so putting it inside the post holes also makes it more likely to cut the wire. Twisted wire can help make it more robust.

DNA 40 reads temperature through resistance fluctuations. Nickel wire increases in resistance as it gets hotter, which is how the DNA calculates the temperature. That's why you need a cool coil before screwing it on your mod, to get your base resistance. So unless your resistance is rock solid and stable, the DNA will interpret any slight fluctuation as a change in temperature, and throw the whole system out of balance.

It's a very delicate system. Add that to the fact that nickel wire is very soft and somewhat challenging to work with and very low resistance, makes it a challenge to get a 100% dependable reading from the atomizer. I hope Evolv can figure out how to improve the system in the next generation, because as of right now I'm not taking advantage of temp control even though I'd like to.

 

[coolercoiler]

I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm running an Ni200 micro coil in my Russian ( authintic) and having no trouble at all. My
Plume Vail (clone) on the other hand, I can't get that f'ing thing to work no matter what. If I knew what I was doing wrong, I could work toward doing it right. That's whats ticking me off the most. i don't know what I'm doing wrong.
i have tried spaced and contact coils, large and small inner diameter, short and long legs. With different combos of each, somtimes, even with temp control on, I get burnt hits, other times temp protect kicks in way to early and i get less vapor than my russian produces. I'm about to slam my face through a concrete wall. please, someone help me.



The best ni200 build i have had in my plume veil so far, 29g clapton coil . Winding as a clapton i have found that it solves at least two of the common ni200 problems.
1 , It makes the wire much better for clamping in the holes without breaking.
2, contact coils dont seem to affect them as much as a single or twisted coil.
really thick vapour production too.

 

[NOVA jon]

Updated, day 2: still solid ohms. Yay

Solid connections. When I was WRAPING the legs around the screws, I would find that at some point in time they would loosen and cause me problems with steady ohms. First lemo I can get solid connections that way. With the second one, I have to just trap a leg under the screw to get the same solid readings.

Go figure, just the little differences in the same atty makes a big difference in functionality!

 

[puffon]

Also, be sure the addy and rDNA are cooled, before attaching.
Otherwise it may not get a correct base reading.

 

[Avie]

My first experience with Nickel coil (30awg) and after making 3 failed coils...

Did a 2.5mm internal diameter micro coil, temperature protection (TP) at 380F.
It was a success, funny thing is I never hit TP (at 20w) unless i am almost out of juice.

No idea if this is normal, but working for me so far.