Ni200 tips

[drunkenbatman]

Obviously there's a difference between grade 1 & 2 Ti, but what's the impact on us ? I ask as I can only find grade 2 in the EU. If anyone has a supplier uk based let us know.

Grade 1 is the easiest to work with/form cold, as it's the softest. It deals with corrosion the best as its the least reactive.

Grade 2 has O2 dissolved into it, enough to where it's considered an alloy or a mix of titanium & titanium dioxide. Once you start getting into grade 3+ it becomes about the amount of O2 dissolved and then other alloys (aluminum and others). I can't say how it affects safety at high temps.

 

[BoomerFZ1]

So just like DB said I have found this thread!!!! Lol, on a serious note though...there is NO comparison between Ti grade 1 and ni200, they have completely different resistance and composition...ni200 is VERY soft and almost unmanageable, you can't run it out of temp mode or else it is bad for you with the by-products and oxides it releases, re-wicking is horribly complicated and ni200 as almost NO resistance (it takes alot of wraps to get what you want and forces you to use thinner and hard to work with gauges) whereas with Titanium it is a VERY different story, it has higher resistance and can use thicker gauges without ANY problems whatsoever, it is a breeze to re-wick, it keeps it shape VERY well (ni200 does NOT), you can use it out of temp mode with no problems (and has better flavor IMO), and with the titanium you just get better overall results as the thicker gauges connect to the posts in rda's much better than crappy tiny ni200

Yeah my comments about the two were just the initial coil building. But you definitely take it a bit further. I did enjoy my first winding with NI200 but I can definitely see where it becomes a PIA if you need to make adjustments or re-wick. And Ti...you can just bend, shape and reshape that stuff without worries. Very forgiving it seems where the NI200 plays nice until you make that one little whoops. I'm definitely going to keep messing with the two and see if I can notice any taste difference. Couple questions for ya....what wattage do you usually vape at on both? And what guage do you use with the Ti?

 

[Ringomountbatten]

First Ni build done, dual coil on the Marquis, coming out at 0.14 with 30awg .25mm set to 430 @ 25 Watts. Coils are tight together ( should they be spaced ? ) but it's coming through pretty good. Must say though, it's not mind bending better than anything else good. Perhaps needs a little bedding in ?

 

[peraspera]

In this Vapour Trails/Haze Hour's Dec. 4 interview with Evolv's Brandon he discusses quite a bit about builds starting at 0:53:31. Also, there is a lot of information about Ni200 builds in this thread, DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds.

Temperature protection relies on very precise measurements. This means builds that have wonkiness in the 510 connection or coil build will throw TP into a hissy fit. Wobbly 510 topper connections need to be stabilized. Post holes tend to not be TP-friendly so use screws for your coils when possible. Evolv found that just blowing across touching coils can cause issues with TP so they suggest using spaced coils.

Cutting your wicking in half lengthwise, inserting the pieces from opposite ends of the coil and pulling them through at the same time with equal force can reduce coil deformity caused by wicking Ni200.

 

[Ringomountbatten]

In this Vapour Trails/Haze Hour's Dec. 4 interview with Evolv's Brandon he discusses quite a bit about builds starting at 0:53:31. Also, there is a lot of information about Ni200 builds in this thread, DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds.

Temperature protection relies on very precise measurements. This means builds that have wonkiness in the 510 connection or coil build will throw TP into a hissy fit. Wobbly 510 topper connections need to be stabilized. Post holes tend to not be TP-friendly so use screws for your coils when possible. Evolv found that just blowing across touching coils can cause issues with TP so they suggest using spaced

Cutting your wicking in half lengthwise, inserting the pieces from opposite ends of the coil and pulling them through at the same time with equal force can reduce coil deformity caused by wicking Ni200.

Just spaced em out

 

[jaxgator]

The main thing to understand about nickel builds is that all connections must be very secure. Reason being, Ni200's super low resistance. If you see your resistance jumping between TP and W, that's a clear indication of a connection issue.

Also, make sure that your atty is completely cooled off and at room temperature before letting the board acquire its base resistance reading. Get this part wrong and all the calculations done by the board will be off and the vape won't be nearly as good.

I found nickel to be a lot tougher to wick without destroying the coil. I tried micro contact coils but they just weren't for me even though that's all I use in all of my kanthal builds. Anyway, to remedy destroying the coils, I have been using twisted 30g with much success.

Here's a couple images of the way I do all of my nickel builds (Erlkonigins and a KF4). 8 wraps, 3mm mandrel, wicked with rayon.