Nico-Stick Atomizer problem
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Hate to disagree with the "shorted out theory" here but if there is a short between the inner and outer contacts that would simply cause the atomizer to receive less voltage/current not more. ie. part of the current would flow between the connectors instead of through the atomizer coil.
If the contacts were shorted it would put out less vapor (wouldn't get as hot) and probably wouldn't work at all.
Now the other possibilities still exist. Stuck switch insufficient air flow etc.
Just my $.02.
If the contacts were shorted it would put out less vapor (wouldn't get as hot) and probably wouldn't work at all.
Now the other possibilities still exist. Stuck switch insufficient air flow etc.
Just my $.02.
Ok, I removed the solder from the pins on the DC connectors, and got some new attys. This time, I was very careful to screw the atty down only far enough to make it work... No further.. And I got TWO days of use out of it, instead of just one... WTF??
I'm pretty sure it's not a stuck switch... I built two of these, and have changed switches.. The chances that 4 switches (bought at different times, at two different stores) are all sticking is pretty slim... Besides, if the switch were stuck, and the atomizer was heating up without me touching the button, I would have noticed it by now. Airflow isn't an issue either, even when I was screwing these down all the way, the airflow was better than what I get with my 510. I'm getting even more airflow now..
And as I was writing this post, my second new atomizer just failed! That only took a couple of hours!
Argh!
I'm pretty sure it's not a stuck switch... I built two of these, and have changed switches.. The chances that 4 switches (bought at different times, at two different stores) are all sticking is pretty slim... Besides, if the switch were stuck, and the atomizer was heating up without me touching the button, I would have noticed it by now. Airflow isn't an issue either, even when I was screwing these down all the way, the airflow was better than what I get with my 510. I'm getting even more airflow now..
And as I was writing this post, my second new atomizer just failed! That only took a couple of hours!
Argh!
Ok...stupid nob questions: How long are you holding down the button per vape and how much time in between?
I managed to fry up an 801 on my passthru just by hitting it like a stogie at the camp fire - sort of forgot it was an e-cig :}
I managed to fry up an 801 on my passthru just by hitting it like a stogie at the camp fire - sort of forgot it was an e-cig :}
Somewhere I learned that the center of the atty is supposed to be positive, and the outer cylinder negative. Probably shouldn't matter, but it won't hurt try switching them.
What really doesn't make sense is that they last for a couple of hours before they die. That it isn't immediate.
I agree, I have never had a problem, but I always use positive for the center pin. Seems to be the only difference in your setup and mine. Worth a shot.
which means the primer is keeping the atty wet enough for a while until it gets too dry and cant suck enough juice from the cart fast enough and coil gets too hot , and the on - off action of the dry wick pops it. Just my theory!! If I'm wrong go ahead and sue me
. LOL.. Just tryin to help you figure this out. are you dripping or just using carts?? and if you drip was the atty hot when you did ? Are you vaping like a fiend nonstop?
I too had serious problems with attys when first using mods and there seems to be quite a learning curve associated with them ...
I havent lost an atomizer in a long time now. and I credit it to experience , and watching my habits while vaping..
Edit: Oh yeah I try to use the center pin for positive too, it really should not matter much, but it may not help things either I guess. worth a shot for such an easy fix IMHO.
I have only one 801 atty, I use it on a 6 volt mod exclusively, the hole is closed so I can drip with it (the hole on the connector not the atty hole), and I have been using the same 801 atty for about 2 months now. Blow it out once in a while to get some new juice in it. I believe in always keeping my attys wet. almost to the point of flooding them. I dont believe that you can hurt the atty with too much juice, and its been working for me...
No worries, Shreck... I appreciate the help.... From all you guys.
To answer your questions; I always put a drop or two on a new atty, to try to mask that awful primer taste... I also make sure the cart is moist. If anything, I have to restrain myself from using too much juice... I used to end up with flooded 510 attys all the time (still do, sometimes) from overloading the cart.
I must say, I can be a little more vape-happy when I use the stick, just because I love the awesome amount of billowing vapor it puts out... It's just... The balls! (there... I had to say it...) But I didn't think it was so much as to cook the attys... I could be wrong though. The second one that died today hardly got any use at all before it bought the farm.... I dunno.
I'm gonna go out tomorrow and get a couple fresh connectors, (no solder on the pin this time) and I'll try wiring them the other way round. It really shouldn't matter, but as Scott and Raven said; it's worth a shot.. I've been getting pretty discouraged, and frustrated with this, (I was downright ...... off this afternoon) but I GOTTA make it work... I'm too spoiled now. When I have to go back to the 510, it's nowhere near as gratifying as it used to be.
Nubee, I only need to take a 5-second pull on the stick to get a HUGE amount of thick vapor... Unlike my 510, which can seem like a stamina test at times, trying to get a satisfying drag off of it.
BTW, is that "Borg Stick" for real? Did you make that? That thing looks sick, man!
To answer your questions; I always put a drop or two on a new atty, to try to mask that awful primer taste... I also make sure the cart is moist. If anything, I have to restrain myself from using too much juice... I used to end up with flooded 510 attys all the time (still do, sometimes) from overloading the cart.
I must say, I can be a little more vape-happy when I use the stick, just because I love the awesome amount of billowing vapor it puts out... It's just... The balls! (there... I had to say it...) But I didn't think it was so much as to cook the attys... I could be wrong though. The second one that died today hardly got any use at all before it bought the farm.... I dunno.
I'm gonna go out tomorrow and get a couple fresh connectors, (no solder on the pin this time) and I'll try wiring them the other way round. It really shouldn't matter, but as Scott and Raven said; it's worth a shot.. I've been getting pretty discouraged, and frustrated with this, (I was downright ...... off this afternoon) but I GOTTA make it work... I'm too spoiled now. When I have to go back to the 510, it's nowhere near as gratifying as it used to be.
Nubee, I only need to take a 5-second pull on the stick to get a HUGE amount of thick vapor... Unlike my 510, which can seem like a stamina test at times, trying to get a satisfying drag off of it.
BTW, is that "Borg Stick" for real? Did you make that? That thing looks sick, man!
Get the ones from radio sharks Mossman, you will not have to file or cut them down.
All atomizers are not created alike
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ment/32397-one-tough-atomizer.html#post495257
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ment/32397-one-tough-atomizer.html#post495257
Mossman - Borg stick is just a pic of the borg phaser - my trekkie side coming out
I could see my first nico stick ending up like that if I'm not careful but it would really be uncomfortable in my back pocket.
I hear ya on the vapor - my Janty stick is my sole weapon for that. I've been looking at the nico stick to use my old 901 hardware and a fall back to the JS should I need one.
So I am keenly interested in your adventure and issues as I may be facing them here in the next few weeks.
Hang in there.
I could see my first nico stick ending up like that if I'm not careful but it would really be uncomfortable in my back pocket.
I hear ya on the vapor - my Janty stick is my sole weapon for that. I've been looking at the nico stick to use my old 901 hardware and a fall back to the JS should I need one.
So I am keenly interested in your adventure and issues as I may be facing them here in the next few weeks.
Hang in there.
Actually, the ones I've been using are from Radio Shack... The first one I built didn't seem to work until I added a bit of solder to the end... We'll see how this goes.
nubee said:Mossman - Borg stick is just a pic of the borg phaser - my trekkie side coming out
Heheh... Good one... I geek out on Trek too.
crazyhorse said:
So, what kind of atty was that?
I was reading some OLD threads on this subject.
One said that if your 'juice' is too thin (homemade brew) that that can cause
the atty to burn out faster with a mod 'cause it burns off faster than the thicker stuff.
Another says to put a piece of spring on the center post(this also allows more air flow). That if you screw down the atty too tight on the connecter it will flex and cause the pin to touch the side of the outer threads on the inside and short it out.
I think that the switch being on the positive side is causing the problem.
If the power goes out and then comes back on, sometimes it will blow the blub in your lamp or kill your computer (if you don't have it protected).
Just an observation.
One said that if your 'juice' is too thin (homemade brew) that that can cause
the atty to burn out faster with a mod 'cause it burns off faster than the thicker stuff.
Another says to put a piece of spring on the center post(this also allows more air flow). That if you screw down the atty too tight on the connecter it will flex and cause the pin to touch the side of the outer threads on the inside and short it out.
I think that the switch being on the positive side is causing the problem.
If the power goes out and then comes back on, sometimes it will blow the blub in your lamp or kill your computer (if you don't have it protected).
Just an observation.
Well, we're only talking about 3.7 volts here... Household current is much higher than that, and a lightbulb filament or a microchip is a lot more delicate (you can fry a chip with a static charge so low, you wouldn't even feel it). I could be wrong, but I don't think it's possible to get a surge, or a spike from a battery... There is no flow of current until the circuit is complete, so it's not like there's any pressure (voltage) building up in front of the switch.
Besides, every example I've seen has had the switch wired on the positive side of the circuit, and I haven't heard of anyone else having any problems.
I'm pretty sure I ruined the first batch of atomizers by unnecessarily extending the pin, and screwing the attys on too tight. I may have fried the other two by over-heating them... The jury's still out on that... If that's the case, then, 901 attys are probably less heat resistant than other atomizers... I've gotten 510 attys painfully hot, with no ill effects, and crazyhorse's story shows that 801 attys can take the heat... I'm entering the third day with my last 901 atty and it's still going strong (a new record!), but I'm being careful to space out my vapes.
Crazyhorse, I'm thinking my next build may be an 801-based stick... Is the connector the same as the 901?
Besides, every example I've seen has had the switch wired on the positive side of the circuit, and I haven't heard of anyone else having any problems.
I'm pretty sure I ruined the first batch of atomizers by unnecessarily extending the pin, and screwing the attys on too tight. I may have fried the other two by over-heating them... The jury's still out on that... If that's the case, then, 901 attys are probably less heat resistant than other atomizers... I've gotten 510 attys painfully hot, with no ill effects, and crazyhorse's story shows that 801 attys can take the heat... I'm entering the third day with my last 901 atty and it's still going strong (a new record!), but I'm being careful to space out my vapes.
Crazyhorse, I'm thinking my next build may be an 801-based stick... Is the connector the same as the 901?
FWIW: The polarity of the battery connections (+ and -), whether in the center or outside, makes absolutely no difference.
The atomizer coil is not polarity sensitive.
The atomizer coil is not polarity sensitive.
If you are talking 'standard' connectors - no. 801 is larger diameter.
I'm thinking of shopping the ol' Ace Hardware for a threaded brass fitting I could use. Another modder then used 'medical' tubing as the inner insulator and screwed in a brass screw for the positive post connection.
Looked super 'duh' easy and I don't have any 801 batts to steal the connectors from.
The 801 atomizer is no wonderful thing. I think you can give some of them a dirty look and they die.
A ratshack ¼" mono phone jack (274-0252) works well as an 801 connector. They cost around two or three bucks for a pair of them. A bench grinder is a handy tool for modifying this part.
A retractable ballpoint pen spring works well as a conductor. This can be insulated within the phone jack by a variety of ways as simple as using an electrical tape wrap to plug it into the connector. The spring puts no force on the atomizer and you can adjust the airflow to your ideal level of restriction by stuffing various things into the spring.
Due to my personal experience, I advise against using connectors that employ brass bolts.
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