Regarding the Hana Modz DNA30 clone, look at the 1*18650 / 7W-30W Version. You don't want to get a LiPo powered one! Due to my other hobby (R/C Helicopter), I do not recommend LiPo batteries, 'cause you don't want to drain them more than 80%.
No flavor, too much air?
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Regarding the Hana Modz DNA30 clone, look at the 1*18650 / 7W-30W Version. You don't want to get a LiPo powered one! Due to my other hobby (R/C Helicopter), I do not recommend LiPo batteries, 'cause you don't want to drain them more than 80%.
I used to be pretty hot and heavy into RC myself, giant scale gas and small electric 3d foamies, and I am with you on staying away from LiPo. About 6 years ago one of the guys burned his car and garage while charging a lipo. Honestly I think that was more of a user error than LiPo issue.
I tired heli's but there was just too much happening for my slow brain and thumbs to stay ahead of. I gave it all up and started fishing.
I think, once you get the hang of it, R/C Helicopters are addictive as well. I started w/ the Phoenix Flight Simulator and a DX6i, that my wife bought as a birthday present. Half year later, I owned a Blade 130x. Now, almost 2 years in, I have 4 more CP Helicopters and a DX9. However, I'm still learning how to fly them.
I would recommend a Mech mod without hesitating for anything that will put a heavy drain on your battery. Just make sure your familiar with Ohms law and all that lovely stuff before attaching stuff. I purchased a mech mod for nearly half the price of my MVP the other day and my RBA's run much, much better !
For the record I run a .8 ohm single coil in a genny tank, on a KTS plus - It runs about 17 watts at 5 amps in this setup, which is safe. If i tried it on my MVP it would either not work or kill the battery. The taste is amazing - If you've not tried steel wicks before they really take the biscuit in my opinion !
For the record I run a .8 ohm single coil in a genny tank, on a KTS plus - It runs about 17 watts at 5 amps in this setup, which is safe. If i tried it on my MVP it would either not work or kill the battery. The taste is amazing - If you've not tried steel wicks before they really take the biscuit in my opinion !
I got the $16 clone from Fasttech and it rocks on an MVP. Single coil at 1.8 ohms - 32 ga Kanthal, cotton wick. Even better on the Vamo.
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1718100
Yup, this. The Infinite Magma clone is good too, if you don't want to go the fasttech route. I've compared both in person and they're identical as far as I can tell. It's also a much easier build for me than any of the IGO series were.
I have a 2 ohm coil on my EHPro Kayfun 3.1. 3.7v gives me good vapor and good flavor. It has adjustable airflow via a screw adjustment on the coil deck. You can find one somewhere in the $35 to $49 range. With care it could last for many years and replacement parts are available.
The current IGO W has two stock airholes right ?
I reckon you're using a single coil, that would be way too much airflow. And even one 2mm air hole would be too much for me for the record, i'd go with 1.5.
That and on a regulated device, going higher in ohms and with a lower coil diameter can help alot because you'll end up with more coil/wick contact surface. What you want is a very small (no more than 1.5mm i.d, prob around 1.2 or 1.3 would be best) coil, but with 10 or 11 wraps. The regulation should allow you to compensate for the ohms. See the micro coil mega thead for details.
Basically since you can't put up the watts to vaporize juice faster, you want to have more contact between the wick and the coil to vaporize more juice slowly.
I know I used an IGO L with this type of coil on my provari for a long time before switching to mechs. Then I upped the watts and went with bigger coils because the wick wouldn't keep up, but the provari / igo l / micro coil was pretty good frankly.
I reckon you're using a single coil, that would be way too much airflow. And even one 2mm air hole would be too much for me for the record, i'd go with 1.5.
That and on a regulated device, going higher in ohms and with a lower coil diameter can help alot because you'll end up with more coil/wick contact surface. What you want is a very small (no more than 1.5mm i.d, prob around 1.2 or 1.3 would be best) coil, but with 10 or 11 wraps. The regulation should allow you to compensate for the ohms. See the micro coil mega thead for details.
Basically since you can't put up the watts to vaporize juice faster, you want to have more contact between the wick and the coil to vaporize more juice slowly.
I know I used an IGO L with this type of coil on my provari for a long time before switching to mechs. Then I upped the watts and went with bigger coils because the wick wouldn't keep up, but the provari / igo l / micro coil was pretty good frankly.
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I have one hole on plugged with a toothpick. I wanted to go with a 1/16"(1.588mm) hole but broke the bit and went to the next size drill bit. Lesson learned to buy better tools.
Do you think it would be best to rest the coil on the cotton as apposed to threading the wick through the coil? Also if I thread the coil should I push some of the wick under the coil for more contact?
You can try putting some wick under the coil as a supplement, might help or not it depends on your build. It could also lead to dry hits.
Some people do the empty coil on a bed of cotton thing and claim it rocks, never tried it myself. They use an ever smaller coil for that though, called nano coil. Don't know what diameter that is exactly.
I'd really recommend trying a smaller coil than 5/64, it will make a big difference. You want 1/16 or less (better) if you can't go to more than 11W. Use 30G kanthal, it will also be much more kindlier to the mvp.
Also since I understand it's your first foray into rebuildables here is a quick checklist just in case :
- Check that your coil has no hotspot / hot legs : with the wick in and some juice, fire for maybe 10 secs or more with the cap off. Check that nothing turns red after a while in there.
- With cotton if you want flavor you don't want a lot of it, generally you want as little as you can, just enough to touch the deck and then a little more
- you want the coil in front of the hole, and as close from it as you can
I agree that ultimately what you want is a mech or a DNA30 to drive an RDA, but you should be able to get some good flavor from your current setup nevertheless.
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