No Gurgling ? Protank 2 Mini
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I prefer tightly coiled. Legs don't get that hot.
If you don't torch, when you first fire it, the resistance will drop as some parts of the coil will short out before the layer of carbon/oxide?? buils up on the wire. So you might need a mechanical to fire it at first.
If you don't torch, when you first fire it, the resistance will drop as some parts of the coil will short out before the layer of carbon/oxide?? buils up on the wire. So you might need a mechanical to fire it at first.
I found this great tip online that corrects the gurgling issue. Perfect hits right down to the last drop. Kanger should make their heads this way to begin with!
http://godofsteam.wordpress.com/2013/07/12/how-to-fix-kanger-evod-leakinggurgling-issues/
Add an adjustable air flow base and it's a damn near perfect tank in my opinion.
http://godofsteam.wordpress.com/2013/07/12/how-to-fix-kanger-evod-leakinggurgling-issues/
Add an adjustable air flow base and it's a damn near perfect tank in my opinion.
Just had a thought, could gurgling and leaking on PT2 mini be caused by plugged air holes. There are 3 and they are very small, every once in a while I blow and I see the smoke come out through the hole, I also clean my tank out every week or so and as stated before never had any issues or problems.
Danrogers:14670909 said:
The plugged airholes by themselves will NOT cause gurgling and leaking. What happens is that due to the tighter draw, you would suck harder. This causes more juice to be drawn to the coil, causing gurgling. Worst case scenario is when you suck so hard that the flavor wicks become dislodged, leading to flooding.
I drilled my airholes out on the mini bases; big airy holes.
Small holes make a tighter draw and when you draw it tends to suck liquid out of the tank into the coil area and flood it.
Common problem with new vapers accustomed to smoking; if your coil is a little too damp, performance is not good, so the instinctive reaction is to draw harder like you would when your cigarette seems to be going out; that causes more flooding.
The grommet flip has been advocated by many Kanger users here. I tried it once, just to see if it would make a difference, but it didn't... for me. OTOH, I didn't have a problem that needed fixing so my observations are pretty much useless.
Many people swear that it helps.Add an adjustable air flow base and it's a damn near perfect tank in my opinion.
Yup!
Are they plugged? Did you try to put a needle through to make sure they are open? Sometimes those clearos are less than perfect and that may cause problems. They should be open, of course.
That said, I always fiddled with those holes on the early, non-AFC Kanger tanks. Some were too airy so I used to stick a broken off toothpick into one of the holes to tighten the draw. But now I have replaced my PT non-adjustable bases with AFCs and it's made all the difference.
This is the one I have on my mini PT2. It's very hard to adjust when brand new, but it loosens up a bit after a while.
Kanger Airflow Control Valve - Mini V2
The protank wick was the first bottom coil design and has had a lot of issues. If you rebuild it, you will have a better chance of them not gurgling. The reason for the leaks and gurgling is part user error (inhaling at a higher rate than you are vaporizing the liquid) and part design. The former is easy to remedy, the latter takes a bit of examination.
The tow strands of silica through the coils and the two strands of silica on top of the coil has spacial disparities. Depending on the varying width of the silica, some protank wicks will leak and gurgle while others will burn. The trick is to find the proper "restriction" for your vape style. If you inhale very hard, cover up the wicking opening with more silica or cotton so that you dont flood the atty. If you are a soft inhaler, then gaps between the silica and cotton fibers will be ok and will not cause any leaking.
Also be weary of the fact that when eliquid is subjected to higher temperatures it becomes less viscous and can cause automatic leaking which will result in gurgling. Its trial and error unless you have someone who understands these concepts and knows your vaping style in which case and perfect wick can be built from observing you vape.
Let me know if you have any questions.
The tow strands of silica through the coils and the two strands of silica on top of the coil has spacial disparities. Depending on the varying width of the silica, some protank wicks will leak and gurgle while others will burn. The trick is to find the proper "restriction" for your vape style. If you inhale very hard, cover up the wicking opening with more silica or cotton so that you dont flood the atty. If you are a soft inhaler, then gaps between the silica and cotton fibers will be ok and will not cause any leaking.
Also be weary of the fact that when eliquid is subjected to higher temperatures it becomes less viscous and can cause automatic leaking which will result in gurgling. Its trial and error unless you have someone who understands these concepts and knows your vaping style in which case and perfect wick can be built from observing you vape.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Outside of the fluid dynamics people have mentioned here which ALL bottom feeder clearos have to deal with and expansion / contraction that can happen when moving from a cold house to a hot car which can cause clearos to flood....
A big part of the problem (most of...99% of the problem) with protanks v1 and v2, IS the 510 base which causes a restriction of the air that travels through the 510 and down thru the coil hole past the insulator grommet before it finally travels up thru the center pin to get to the coil and out to your mouth.
Heres a helpful diagram so you can see what I mean...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...anger-protank-airflow-fix-protank-airflow.png
from this thread about the 510 air restriction issue...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/482938-kanger-protank-airflow-fix.html
When the 510 base is screwed onto your mod, it slightly squashes the insulator grommet making it fatter in the coil hole which makes the air path even more restricted. This problem became even worse when kanger started using silicone rubber instead of the old harder rubber for those insulators. The silicone was much softer and would squash outward to the point of restricting the air path so badly in some cases it would be way too tight or even completely shut off. Most folks would compensate by not fully tightening their protanks to their mods. Kanger tried to address the blocked flow problem on protank3's with the dual coils by notching the sides of the center pins, but that led to them developing the air control base to get rid of the flawed design of the older 510 base piece. Probably the greatest thing kanger has ever done to improve their performance, imho.
Anyway, that restricted air path causes the user to vacuum too much e-liquid into the wicks and flooding the coil...or gurgling horribly.
Mini pro tanks use the ego connection and there is no air restriction before the air finds its way up the center pin. This is why mini pros and all the other kanger ego connected clearos dont gurgle or flood anywhere near as often as the bigger brother protanks and other 510 connected clearos made before kanger started making them with the air flow control base piece.
When you throw away that damned old 510 base and replace it with an aerotank base, you basically CURE 99% of what causes flooding and gurgling on the good old protanks v1, v2 and v3. The aerotank base holds your coil head in such a way that there is no restricted air path before the air goes up the center pin, much like the way air gets to the center pin on ego connected kangers. Plus you gain the advantage of being able to adjust the airflow "draw" to suit your personal preference. Tighter draw helps increase juice feed and slightly warms up the vape where looser draw gives more air and a cooler vape.
If you have a protank2 and a minipro laying around, you CAN put that base on a protank and you'll see the big difference in draw and less flooding gurgling getting rid of the 510 restriction really makes. But the aerotank base IS THE CURE.
sheeesh, didnt mean to write a book.
hth,
jon
A big part of the problem (most of...99% of the problem) with protanks v1 and v2, IS the 510 base which causes a restriction of the air that travels through the 510 and down thru the coil hole past the insulator grommet before it finally travels up thru the center pin to get to the coil and out to your mouth.
Heres a helpful diagram so you can see what I mean...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...anger-protank-airflow-fix-protank-airflow.png
from this thread about the 510 air restriction issue...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/482938-kanger-protank-airflow-fix.html
When the 510 base is screwed onto your mod, it slightly squashes the insulator grommet making it fatter in the coil hole which makes the air path even more restricted. This problem became even worse when kanger started using silicone rubber instead of the old harder rubber for those insulators. The silicone was much softer and would squash outward to the point of restricting the air path so badly in some cases it would be way too tight or even completely shut off. Most folks would compensate by not fully tightening their protanks to their mods. Kanger tried to address the blocked flow problem on protank3's with the dual coils by notching the sides of the center pins, but that led to them developing the air control base to get rid of the flawed design of the older 510 base piece. Probably the greatest thing kanger has ever done to improve their performance, imho.
Anyway, that restricted air path causes the user to vacuum too much e-liquid into the wicks and flooding the coil...or gurgling horribly.
Mini pro tanks use the ego connection and there is no air restriction before the air finds its way up the center pin. This is why mini pros and all the other kanger ego connected clearos dont gurgle or flood anywhere near as often as the bigger brother protanks and other 510 connected clearos made before kanger started making them with the air flow control base piece.
When you throw away that damned old 510 base and replace it with an aerotank base, you basically CURE 99% of what causes flooding and gurgling on the good old protanks v1, v2 and v3. The aerotank base holds your coil head in such a way that there is no restricted air path before the air goes up the center pin, much like the way air gets to the center pin on ego connected kangers. Plus you gain the advantage of being able to adjust the airflow "draw" to suit your personal preference. Tighter draw helps increase juice feed and slightly warms up the vape where looser draw gives more air and a cooler vape.
If you have a protank2 and a minipro laying around, you CAN put that base on a protank and you'll see the big difference in draw and less flooding gurgling getting rid of the 510 restriction really makes. But the aerotank base IS THE CURE.
sheeesh, didnt mean to write a book.
hth,
jon
Nice.
But the AFC I recommended above is the exact same one that came with my mini Aerotank--it does fix the issue:
Kanger Airflow Control Valve - Mini V2
Yeah they certainly help improve the draw on the old minipro2 v2, which only came with the three hole plain base.
My point in that statement you quoted, was to point out the difference when you take away the blockage illustrated in the diagram I showed in the link.
Which of course will help deal with fluid dynamics vs the non adjustable draw of the plain ego base.
The mini's are all ego connected devices, which dont have the squashed grommet problem the old 510 connected base the protank one two and three had. Thats the big issue I was babbling on about...the issue I am obsessed with making sure folks with protanks know about since we hard core kanger cotton single coil head rebuilders love for how well they perform vs the stock dual coil kanger shizznitz...
click and look... ( i forgot how to bb code an img file...arrgh brain fart)
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...anger-protank-airflow-fix-protank-airflow.png
anyway, just for grins, screw that mini base on your full size (not mini) protank and slap it on your mvp...whaaaattt it looks kinda goofy, but its a great option when your mvp (or other ego /510) threads get screwed up.
My point in that statement you quoted, was to point out the difference when you take away the blockage illustrated in the diagram I showed in the link.
Which of course will help deal with fluid dynamics vs the non adjustable draw of the plain ego base.
The mini's are all ego connected devices, which dont have the squashed grommet problem the old 510 connected base the protank one two and three had. Thats the big issue I was babbling on about...the issue I am obsessed with making sure folks with protanks know about since we hard core kanger cotton single coil head rebuilders love for how well they perform vs the stock dual coil kanger shizznitz...
click and look... ( i forgot how to bb code an img file...arrgh brain fart)
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...anger-protank-airflow-fix-protank-airflow.png
anyway, just for grins, screw that mini base on your full size (not mini) protank and slap it on your mvp...whaaaattt it looks kinda goofy, but its a great option when your mvp (or other ego /510) threads get screwed up.
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The squashing grommet certainly causes a restriction, but while I agee with you about the airflow problem on the protank 510 thread, the diagram does not include the TAPER of the lower part of the coil with the center pin. The tapering allows for the air to flow even when the grommet gets squished..... although I guess with the newer soft silicone type grommets which make it easier to rebuild/recoil, they do suffer more squishing and the problem with airflow would be worse with them.
Nope...that taper was to help the air at the point of contact between the mod center pin and the coil center pin to help the air get to the air slot but did nothing to prevent the squashed grommet from blocking off flow through the 510 coil holders big hole (from the two little holes past the grommet and finally to the center pin slot and up the center pins air hole. See this diagram...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...anger-protank-airflow-fix-protank-airflow.png
Later on, when kanger became aware of the 510 base design flaw, they began using the notched pin on their coils for the protank three heads. The notch milled on two sides of the pin flange gave a place for the compressed silicone to squish into and left some slight space for the air to get past the insulator and find its way to the slot...but even that was insufficient...see picture notched pin...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rtech-protank-3-dual-coil-atomizer-head-3.jpg
And then kanger solved the 510 airflow design flaw by eliminating the problem. The aerotank base coil placement is now unrestricted since its not sitting in that tight hole the old 510 base had. The airflow controller also has the advantage of being a catch cup device to keep any seepage from getting to your mods 510 contacts...no more flooded batteries
You're right; looking over a couple of them with magnifiers, there isn't really a taper in the upper part; I just got that impression perhaps partly because of the oring seal at the top of the threads.
A squished grommet inside a 510 thead can certainly block airflow;
I long ago dropped the 510 base and only used eGo bases from miniprotanks, so I didn't use to see that effect.
Exactly my experience with those tanks. Unscrewing the glass to refill loosens the coil, but apart from that they work great for me.
I'm currently one of the "lucky" ones. I've "graduated" from EVODs to PT2s (with airflow bases). I have only had one leak recently, and I didn't properly get the base screwed in after I'd filled the tank.
I really like the PT2s. I build to about 1.8-1.9Ω and run around 9.5-10W. I'll get an occasional "snap" when I take a draw, but that doesn't freak me out too much.
I really like the PT2s. I build to about 1.8-1.9Ω and run around 9.5-10W. I'll get an occasional "snap" when I take a draw, but that doesn't freak me out too much.
I can't find the Travel and Ecig site. It was so helpful. Any input would be appreciated.
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