Not much vapour

[ginseng1]

I am not getting too much vapour out of my new Dreadnaught. I only bought the 3.2 volt batteries. So I have ordered some 3.7 volt batteries and I am hoping things will perk up.

In the mean time, maybe I should get myself some Kanthal wire in case I have to replace the coils someday? The tank has 3 atomizers inside with philips or similar heads. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Sthur]

Welcome to the forums ginseng. Before you get any further in please read up on baditudes blogs on batteries, ohms law, and watch YouTube vids. 3.2v battery sounds odd and I hope you got a good brand battery for use in a mech with good amp rating.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/baditude/6293-14-ohms-law-dummies-vapers.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...eeper-understanding-mod-batteries-part-i.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...eper-understanding-mod-batteries-part-ii.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-9-battery-basics-mods-imr-protected-icr.html

 

[Ryedan]

I am not getting too much vapour out of my new Dreadnaught. I only bought the 3.2 volt batteries. So I have ordered some 3.7 volt batteries and I am hoping things will perk up.

In the mean time, maybe I should get myself some Kanthal wire in case I have to replace the coils someday? The tank has 3 atomizers inside with philips or similar heads. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Hi ginseng1 and welcome to ECF from a fellow Canuck

I'm glad Sthur found this thread and brought it back to the front so people can see it again. He is right, you really need to know more about mechanical mods and RDAs before you continue or it could be quite dangerous.

The 3.2V batteries are pretty safe if they are lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) chemistry. The 3.7V batteries have to be the correct type of lithium ion or they can blow up in your face. Here's a chart of some of the more popular batteries we use. Notice the chemistries are all IMR, or a hybrid technology that is much safer than ICR chemistry. These batteries are also not protected because that isn't needed. Notice also the amp limits listed for each battery. These must not be exceeded for safety reasons. The lower the resistance of your builds the more amps will be drawn from the battery. A short will cause the battery to vent quite quickly (dangerous with an ICR batt).

Yes, you will have to clean the coils when they become gunked up, probably replace the wicks each time and you will have to replace the coils when they wear out. I clean my coils and replace the wicks about every 15 ml of juice and replace the coils about every 100 ml.

 

[gkenney]

Vapor results from the juice in the wick boiling. The amount of energy (or Watts) put through the coil determines the amount of vapor. If you are pushing three coils (?) with a 3.2 volt battery it is probably passing more amperage than the battery is capable of putting out to keep the wick boiling. In other words the coils are not heating up because they are sharing the load. The comments on safety are to be taken seriously. Have fun with your builds. Youtube and forums are our friends.

 

[Warpigs]

Welcome to ECF! You batteries are going to be the ost important part of your set-up. Don't skimp out and get cheap ones. Go to a reputable battery vendor and spend the extra few bucks. It's worth it. I love my Authentic Sony VTC4's.

 

[ginseng1]

Thank you for the answers. Since I am just starting out, I bought the "safest" I could find, without knowing much.
So yes they are LiFePO4. I am now thinking they are underpowered for the unit I have.

Next, before joining here, I have ordered some Samsung INR 18650-15Q. They are described as ideal for drill packs, high amperage.

So if these turn out to be a poor choice, I will have to try again. About batteries blowing up; This Dreadnaut is pretty heavy duty looking. How bad are the explosions?

 

[Susan~S]

Hello and welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here!

So if these turn out to be a poor choice, I will have to try again. About batteries blowing up; This Dreadnaut is pretty heavy duty looking. How bad are the explosions?

Both Sthur & Rhedan gave you some good links. It would serve you well to read them. I have reposted some of them below.

If you are new to mech mods and rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding mods and rebuildables are listed below:

BATTERIES

9. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

17. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

14. Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

16. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

MECHANICAL MODS & REBUILDABLES

7. Information Resources for Your First RBA
* An essential read and reference guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.

15. Inexpensive Mechanical Mod and RDA Setup
* A response to the frequently asked question on how to get into rebuildable atomizers with a mechanical mod inexpensively. Includes a list of commonly used tools and supplies for rebuilding and where to find them.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics

 

[Kevin littell]

Whomever SOLD you that mod with LIPO batteries doesnt value your business very much... or your teeth or fingers.


Chunk them in the trash and get some good IMR's...

Suspend vape activities with that mod till you do.The fingers and face you save is yours.


Then, get on them calculators and figure out what build will be safe for your batteries and REWICK IT.


Those batteries are dangerous...enough so that you dont want to use them again.

 

[blahzx]

Battery does make a big difference. You need bigger air holes but not too big and you should read up about ohm.

 

[Ryedan]

Thank you for the answers. Since I am just starting out, I bought the "safest" I could find, without knowing much.
So yes they are LiFePO4. I am now thinking they are underpowered for the unit I have.

The problem with these batteries is you have no specifications on them so you don't know what the safe amp limit is and you don't know if they are underpowered for the way you want to vape.

Next, before joining here, I have ordered some Samsung INR 18650-15Q. They are described as ideal for drill packs, high amperage.

So if these turn out to be a poor choice, I will have to try again. About batteries blowing up; This Dreadnaut is pretty heavy duty looking. How bad are the explosions?

I'm not familiar with these exact batteries but they are rated at 18 amp max and 1500 mAh. They are very likely quite close to IMR chemistry judging from the specs. I would vape them with no more than the normal battery safety concerns. They are not ICR and should not explode if they vent.

Susan has posted information on how bad battery explosions can be. It's worse if one explodes in your mouth. I have the feeling you have not read much about this stuff yet. Learning about Ohm's law (here's an online calculator) and how to calculate amp draw of your atty builds is required to know if your batteries can handle the build. Checking resistance is also required to make sure you don't have a short which will quickly cause a battery to vent.

The less you know the more risk you're taking. The stronger a mod is the more it becomes like a pipe bomb. If you're not willing to learn about this stuff, sell the mod and buy a regulated box mod or tube mod. You can get them up to 150 watts these days and there are a lot of them at 50 watts. You still need to put the right battery in these, but as long as you do that they will save you from resistance that's too low and shorts.

 

[Ryedan]

Whomever SOLD you that mod with LIPO batteries doesnt value your business very much... or your teeth or fingers.

Kevin, the LiFePO4 are not Lipo and they are arguably safer than IMR or hybrids.

 

[ginseng1]

Thank you everyone. Will be back in a week. Please do not worry. I read all the suggestions and also - I am not using it till I get back and squared away. Cheers