Now I am chasing clounds and loving it! Few questions though...

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I have purchased an HCIGAR clone of a Turtleship V2 and an EHPRO Tobh V2

Coil was fabricated at my local shop and watched him do it, so I have a jist of how to get one done...
It is a Dual Coil 28GA 8 Wrap .7 OHM Build using Organic Cotton

juice is a Seduce juice Blackjack, MAX VG 6MG

Battery is a EFEST IMR 18650 3.7V LI-MN 2500mAh 35A Battery
Charger is a Trustfire (Not sure how good it is)

At work I will only be hitting it a couple times before shift, on breaks and a few at lunch, should that battery handle that?
What if at home for the day? How long should it last?

The guy at the shop said I will KNOW when it needs to be put on charger... Will I? What should I look out for?
Seems I need to pick up an ohm / voltage meter... Any suggestions? anything portable?

Apparently theres a charger than can bring these batteries back from over discharge? What is it? Where can I get it?
What are some risks(if any) that I am creating by running this setup? How can I avoid them? Prepare for them?
 

Kaezziel

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Welcome to the forums, jsiddlehfx! You will find that there are a crapload of Texans in here!! You're in good company...

Now, as for your setup and questions:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...op-reference-shop-new-experienced-vapers.html
First suggestion is READ the links in the above thread!
Second suggestion get a multimeter
Third suggestion, don't even worry about trying to find a charger that can bring batteries back from over-discharge. DO NOT over-discharge your batteries!
You can find the risks in the links of the thread that I posted above, but short answer is you can cause the battery to go into thermal runaway and it will turn your Turtleship into a pipebomb...

Now, instead of leaving this as a completely negative post...
Seduce Juice is awesome! I love Genesis (just ordered two more bottles!)
Good battery... I prefer the Sony VTCs (4 or 5)
Nice mod and rda... they will serve you well once you get the basics down!
At .7 ohms, you are not in immediate danger, but you will want to get a meter to check for shorts before you do your next build on it...

And the biggest piece of advice I can give you is to take seriously the information available in this forum... sub ohm builds on mech mods are potentially dangerous.
Good luck and vape safe!
 

Kaezziel

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In the link that I posted, you will see some links read Battery info 2 from Baditude and you'll see what can happen.
The main things that can make a battery go into thermal runaway are overdrain (due to a short) and over discharge.
Also, if the battery has been damaged in any way, you need to replace it.

As for when you are on the road with no meter... you will begin to get a feel for it. When it just isn't hitting right, vapor production becomes weak, etc... change the battery.
My safe response is when in doubt, change it. Same goes for the safety part, if you have any doubts about the safety of the battery, dispose of it properly and get a new one.
 

Baditude

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The purple Efest 2500mah 35 amp battery is actually a re-branded LG18650HE2 20 amp continuous battery; Efest has been known to over-rate their batteries and this is a perfect example. You'll be fine with this battery as long as you don't go below 0.3 ohms with your coil resistance.

Any type of "short" in your setup could cause your battery to go into thermal runaway. A bad coil or insulator in the atomizer or 510 connector; dirty contacts in your 510 connector/fire button/battery connections; a stuck fire button. Keep your mod's contacts clean with rubbing alcohol. Also over-discharging the battery below 2.5 volts (try not to discharge batteries lower than 3.4 volts). You battery, fire button switch, or the body of your mod should never get hot -- if they do its a sign you've got a short and trouble. If this occurs, stop using your setup until you figure out what was causing the short.

You should invest in a voltage meter to keep track of your battery's voltage. You'll also need to have an ohms meter to measure coil resistance. The Omnitester checks both battery voltage and ohm resistance of your coil.

Omnitester.jpg

TRUSTFIRE.JPG

I recommend getting a better charger. The Xtar VP-1 displays battery voltage and also can revive over-discharged batteries.

A lot of information resources can be found here: Batteries, Chargers and Multi-Meters Forum

The tools and supplies you'll need to make your coils can be found in this blog.

Read this and learn it: Information Resources for Your First RBA
 
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beckdg

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Not to threadjack or anything, but since we're on the subject of batteries, are there any other batteries better than the VTC5? If so, which ones? I only have one VTC5 at the moment, but planning on picking another battery or two.
Depends on the application.

I have the vtc4, vtc5, Samsung 25R and AW 1600mah. I don't even consider the AW's a contender. When building 0.4 ohm or higher I feel I get the best performance from the samsungs. When building under 0.4 ohm I feel I get a harder hit from the vtc5's.

My vtc4's will out perform the AW's but fall noticeably short when compared to the other sonys and samsungs under any load. They're on permanent flashlight duty.

Tests and graphs show the he2 performs almost identical to the Samsung.
 

AO Two

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Depends on the application.

I have the vtc4, vtc5, Samsung 25R and AW 1600mah. I don't even consider the AW's a contender. When building 0.4 ohm or higher I feel I get the best performance from the samsungs. When building under 0.4 ohm I feel I get a harder hit from the vtc5's.

My vtc4's will out perform the AW's but fall noticeably short when compared to the other sonys and samsungs under any load. They're on permanent flashlight duty.

Tests and graphs show the he2 performs almost identical to the Samsung.

Thanks for the reply! I'll stick with the VTC5s then.
 
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