Odysseus Questions

[LongDraw]

Hello,

So both of my odi (plural form of odysseus?) came in the mail today. I built a quick coil and am vaping on it now and had a couple of quick questions.

1.) Any way to make the draw tighter? This is on the v2 base, flush with the provari.

2.) I have heard that you can just use one side for the nonresistance wire, is that for the positive side? Does it cause any issues or does it work just as well as two NR wires? Just think it would be easier to get the exact number of wraps with fewer issues of where the R/NR wires meet and land.

3.) I bought 3.5 mm wick from COV. I think the issues I had with my first quick build is because the joint of the NR/R was in the channel some and there wasn't enough space. If I go with just one connection, like in question 2, this will be resolved. But what do people find is the best mm for the silica wick?

4.) I have primarily been using ss mesh in a genesis, but wanted something that was more travel friendly. So I do not have a lot of experience with silica. I did torch it before use, but the flavor does not seem as strong, does this tend to have less flavor or just need awhile to break in?

5.) When changing flavors should I just close the fluid control, vape whats left in the wick, rinse out the tank and fill with new juice?

6.) Anyone have any thoughts for this compared to the penelope?
A.) Does the penelope have a tighter draw?
B.) Does the penelope have a warmer/cooler vape?

So far I am really really happy with the odysseus. Build quality is excellent, very easy to build. Really looking forward to building a new coil tomorrow and dialing it in to my preferences more.

Any thoughts/suggestions are always welcome. Thank you.

 

[justinred]

1. Shorten the ody center post so that it sits flushed on the Provari to tighten the draw.
2. You can do away with the NR wire on the negative pole only on an Ody V2 and Penelope which has a metal channel. It can be done on a v1 but resistance may be too high because of the too long an R wire.
3. Keep the joint on the coil on top of the ceramic and not in the channel. You can also remove a strand out of the 3.5mm wick if you want it a bit slimmer, I get better wicking with a strand removed.
4. Torch wick before use. Also the R wire to remove coating. No break ins needed, it vape great right after building.
5. Yes, you can also rinse the wick and coil and dry burn it to remove previous juice flavor. But I personally just change the wick and coil coz it's just so easy to do.
6. Draw just depends on how low you adjust to sit on the mod. Personally, Ody has a hotter vape for me coz of shorter mouthpiece than the Penelope. But Penelope hits harder coz of the smaller mouthpiece hole.

Yeah, gg attys are a pleasure to rebuild. I actually look forward to rebuilding it and I do sometimes rebuild even if it still vapes well.

 

[Bishopheals]

My suggestion using it with a ggts base on GGTS will give you what you looking for. If you can get your paws on one its cool you can also use a oring on the center post.

As for penelope i own both and On pen its a narrow heat steam draw compared to ody.

as for the coils u can buy premade wires from cov. If you want to make it then you will need both resistance and none resistance wire. the none resistance wires goes on the side channels.

Take a look at one of my vids it shows how to assemble it and make coil.

 

[LongDraw]

I have both wires and have made my own coils. Can make them decently, but think it will turn out better when I just use R/NR for the positive that way I can end my coil whenever I need. I have seen your videos and they are really good. So far, have only tried one juice with a quick coil. Tomorrow will have more time and think I will do like justinred suggested and remove one strand from the 3.5. I did use a smaller wick that was sent with the ody, doubled it where the coil is.

Right now the only device I use is my provari. Love the looks of mechanical, and the idea I can fix anything that would go wrong, but like being able to rebuild the same exact coil and adjust as the coil changes. Have only been vaping for about 3 and half months, and my primary device was the provari and genesis.

My suggestion using it with a ggts base on GGTS will give you what you looking for. If you can get your paws on one its cool you can also use a oring on the center post.

As for penelope i own both and On pen its a narrow heat steam draw compared to ody.

as for the coils u can buy premade wires from cov. If you want to make it then you will need both resistance and none resistance wire. the none resistance wires goes on the side channels.

Take a look at one of my vids it shows how to assemble it and make coil.

 

[fright88]

I've been using only 1 nr wire on my V2 Ody and Pene for a few weeks now. Works great.

 

[LongDraw]

So, my one housing came prebuilt for v2. For my second I have to take apart a v1 to install the v2 housing. Another poster, in a different thread, noticed that the nut inside the housing is upside down. How would I go about taking this apart. I have been trying to use padded pliers holding the center post to loosen, but I am not getting a very good grip and am concerned about ruining anything before I ask for more help. Below is a pic.

 

[Mr B]

How dose only useing 1 me wire work??

 

[LongDraw]

How dose only useing 1 me wire work??

 

[TheSneakerHoarder]

I use 3.5mm wick.

My trick? After I build my coil (2.5 wraps of DC 32g/34g) and set it on the ceramic, I trim off 3 strands from each side of the wick (channel-laden). This way, the coil holds awesome juice (full 3.5mm) and the channels wick really well (2.5mm).

 

[TheSneakerHoarder]

So, my one housing came prebuilt for v2. For my second I have to take apart a v1 to install the v2 housing. Another poster, in a different thread, noticed that the nut inside the housing is upside down. How would I go about taking this apart. I have been trying to use padded pliers holding the center post to loosen, but I am not getting a very good grip and am concerned about ruining anything before I ask for more help. Below is a pic.

View attachment 165357

Last option: break the ceramic to get in there? I don't see how it is even tight without using the slot for a screwdriver.

 

[LongDraw]

Last option: break the ceramic to get in there? I don't see how it is even tight without using the slot for a screwdriver.

Hmmmm, didn't think of that. Wouldn't really bother me. I do not plan on using the v1 ceramic, and even if I did go back to the v1 the one seller sent me 2 extra v1 ceramics as well. Suggestions on where/how to break the ceramic?

 

[LongDraw]

I use 3.5mm wick.

My trick? After I build my coil (2.5 wraps of DC 32g/34g) and set it on the ceramic, I trim off 3 strands from each side of the wick (channel-laden). This way, the coil holds awesome juice (full 3.5mm) and the channels wick really well (2.5mm).

Good idea, wish I would have seen this earlier. Just built my coil this morning. 3.5 fit in the channels wrapped about a 4/5 of 30 gauge and coming in at 1.1 ohms, which is a little lower then I have been wrapping on my genesis, usually about 1.5 ohms. Working well so far. Hope to get the other up and running so I can keep experimenting with number of wraps for the ody.

 

[TheSneakerHoarder]

Hmmmm, didn't think of that. Wouldn't really bother me. I do not plan on using the v1 ceramic, and even if I did go back to the v1 the one seller sent me 2 extra v1 ceramics as well. Suggestions on where/how to break the ceramic?

You honestly need to break it under/close to the nut. You need to get some leverage on it to loosen the connection. Maybe use a small drillbit to make room around it for a set of forceps or small needle-nose pliers. It is truly less than ideal, but if you need the nut out, ceramics are cheap.

 

[TheSneakerHoarder]

Good idea, wish I would have seen this earlier. Just built my coil this morning. 3.5 fit in the channels wrapped about a 4/5 of 30 gauge and coming in at 1.1 ohms, which is a little lower then I have been wrapping on my genesis, usually about 1.5 ohms. Working well so far. Hope to get the other up and running so I can keep experimenting with number of wraps for the ody.

I was have serious wicking problems with 3.5mm in the channels--just too much material to draw my 100% VG up to the coil. You can still do it to a used coil/wick set-up, it will just be a little messy.

 

[imeothanasis]

Unscrew the center post by keeping it from its knurled part Long. Use your hand or pliers. Keep unscrewing and pulling at the same time the center post.

So, my one housing came prebuilt for v2. For my second I have to take apart a v1 to install the v2 housing. Another poster, in a different thread, noticed that the nut inside the housing is upside down. How would I go about taking this apart. I have been trying to use padded pliers holding the center post to loosen, but I am not getting a very good grip and am concerned about ruining anything before I ask for more help. Below is a pic.

View attachment 165357

 

[LongDraw]

This person must have had hands of steel. Keep using padded pliers but it doesn't budge the center post, the center post just spins in the padding. Kinda worried about applying to much more pressure cause if it breaks then I won't be able to use my other odysseus. Would breaking the ceramic like the other poster suggested allow me better access to the nut in the housing then?

Don't know how it is so tight. Looking down inside you can see a lot of threading still as well.

Unscrew the center post by keeping it from its knurled part Long. Use your hand or pliers. Keep unscrewing and pulling at the same time the center post.

 

[LongDraw]

I got it, I got it, I got it. Rather then using the pliers on the post itself, I gripped the nurled piece on the post, was then easily able to unscrew.

Thanks everybody. Now time to put together the v2 housing.

Edit: Last Q (probably not the last, but maybe for a bit haha. Is there supposed to be an oring in the housing under the nut?

Now working on trying to make it tight enough so it doesn't spin when I put the other nut on and off on the center post.

 

[omarr]

I got it, I got it, I got it. Rather then using the pliers on the post itself, I gripped the nurled piece on the post, was then easily able to unscrew.

Thanks everybody. Now time to put together the v2 housing.

Edit: Last Q (probably not the last, but maybe for a bit haha. Is there supposed to be an oring in the housing under the nut?

Now working on trying to make it tight enough so it doesn't spin when I put the other nut on and off on the center post.

Yes you put a small o ring inside the housing inside the ceramic and then screw the nut on top of the post. When you tighten the nut pull the post downwards and turn it to tighten up the nut. I personally got a small screw driver and with a dremell I cut the middle of the screwdriver out so I got a two pronged screw driver and used the screw driver to tighten up the nut.

 

[LongDraw]

Yes you put a small o ring inside the housing inside the ceramic and then screw the nut on top of the post. When you tighten the nut pull the post downwards and turn it to tighten up the nut. I personally got a small screw driver and with a dremell I cut the middle of the screwdriver out so I got a two pronged screw driver and used the screw driver to tighten up the nut.

That is unfortunate then because this one does not have an oring for inside the ceramic, only under the housing. Maybe that is why I can not get it to tighten enough even with pulling on the housing and turning

 

[omarr]

I got it, I got it, I got it. Rather then using the pliers on the post itself, I gripped the nurled piece on the post, was then easily able to unscrew.

Thanks everybody. Now time to put together the v2 housing.

Edit: Last Q (probably not the last, but maybe for a bit haha. Is there supposed to be an oring in the housing under the nut?

Now working on trying to make it tight enough so it doesn't spin when I put the other nut on and off on the center post.

That is unfortunate then because this one does not have an oring for inside the ceramic, only under the housing. Maybe that is why I can not get it to tighten enough even with pulling on the housing and turning

Yes you need a small plastic under the housing and a o ring inside the ceramic try one of the resellers for the small plastic. The o ring size is available on gg wiki. For the time being you can use a o ring under the housing until you get the small plastic . I have a few plastics spare I can give if you cannot get one from the resellers.