Because you said he's authorized by ProVape. My way of thinking since I dont know the business & the reason I ask questions to understand all this is that the company he's authorized to do business for should send him what he needs.
Official ProVari 2.5 Thread
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Not to get in the middle of this, cuz my popcorn is delicious...
But the "authorization" we are talking about boils down to this:
Zen is SO unwaveringly good at modifying/upgrading the v2.5, that Provape has said "Ok. You're so good at it, you're the only person allowed to do this upgrade, besides us of course."
Zen still has to buy the parts, and because he's the only other one allowed to do the upgrade, he's the only one who can buy them.
And Provape gave him a bonus:
Provape has decided that any device, still under warranty, is OK to be modified by Zen, without voiding said warranty.
Soooooo..THAT is what the "authorized" part means.
But the "authorization" we are talking about boils down to this:
Zen is SO unwaveringly good at modifying/upgrading the v2.5, that Provape has said "Ok. You're so good at it, you're the only person allowed to do this upgrade, besides us of course."
Zen still has to buy the parts, and because he's the only other one allowed to do the upgrade, he's the only one who can buy them.
And Provape gave him a bonus:
Provape has decided that any device, still under warranty, is OK to be modified by Zen, without voiding said warranty.
Soooooo..THAT is what the "authorized" part means.
What Provape does for $20:
During assembly, take a cap from the P3 bin instead of the slant cap bin, solder the positive pin and press fit. The only additional cost is the difference between the slant cap and the P3 cap. My guess is $5-10. No additional labor.
What Zen does for $45:
Use the tooling he designed to remove slant cap, being careful not to expand tube or damage the surface.
Desolder slant cap
Install o-ring between board and cap.
Solder P3 cap, which he buys from ProVape. My guess is $10-15.
Press fit P3 cap and test.
Labor likely 1/4 hour, maybe 1/2 hour in worst case.
Considering the additional cost to design the tool for removing the cap, cost of the P3 cap and the additional labor, the $25 difference makes sense to me.
During assembly, take a cap from the P3 bin instead of the slant cap bin, solder the positive pin and press fit. The only additional cost is the difference between the slant cap and the P3 cap. My guess is $5-10. No additional labor.
What Zen does for $45:
Use the tooling he designed to remove slant cap, being careful not to expand tube or damage the surface.
Desolder slant cap
Install o-ring between board and cap.
Solder P3 cap, which he buys from ProVape. My guess is $10-15.
Press fit P3 cap and test.
Labor likely 1/4 hour, maybe 1/2 hour in worst case.
Considering the additional cost to design the tool for removing the cap, cost of the P3 cap and the additional labor, the $25 difference makes sense to me.
What is the point of the O-ring between board & cap?
Is something going to happen to the 2.5 without it?
And this is for @Vape360 ~ if Zens conversion is somehow essential to the 2.5 why doesn't ProVape not do it the same?
My questions are not meant to upset anyone. If sharing knowledge upsets you, then don't.
I constantly seek answers on subjects that I may not just get it like others do & believe me, I am not the only one who has found this a lil confusing- I just happen to be that one whose vocal while others aren't.
I get PM'd a lot by veterans & newbies alike asking my opinion on this very subject. Maybe they value it, maybe they don't & as much as we like helping people spend their money, when someone asks me something I want to be clear in the information I provide.
Is something going to happen to the 2.5 without it?
And this is for @Vape360 ~ if Zens conversion is somehow essential to the 2.5 why doesn't ProVape not do it the same?
My questions are not meant to upset anyone. If sharing knowledge upsets you, then don't.
I constantly seek answers on subjects that I may not just get it like others do & believe me, I am not the only one who has found this a lil confusing- I just happen to be that one whose vocal while others aren't.
I get PM'd a lot by veterans & newbies alike asking my opinion on this very subject. Maybe they value it, maybe they don't & as much as we like helping people spend their money, when someone asks me something I want to be clear in the information I provide.
I believe the o-ring allows the board to move a bit with varying battery length and spring stiffness, while the Provape glue method can be broken free from excess pressure. If a board is moved a bit by pressure, the o-ring will return it to it's normal position, while a broken glue attachment will just be permanently loose until re-glued.
My guess is that Provape wouldn't make a change in a five year old production process on a product they have discontinued. It's not essential.
It does at least explain why he refers to his process as an upgrade versus just a cap replacement, and it seems like a very good idea.
My guess is that Provape wouldn't make a change in a five year old production process on a product they have discontinued. It's not essential.
It does at least explain why he refers to his process as an upgrade versus just a cap replacement, and it seems like a very good idea.
I just want to add that another reason that they wouldn't make a change is that the glue process has worked very well. My first ProVari, a 2.0, came to me after hundreds of hard drops, got dropped by me a few hundred times more, and the board hasn't moved.
ProVape has sold a .... load of 2.5's and as you said, have retained the same process for years so I guess I am trying to wrap my head around why something that has held the test of time needs an upgrade?
@Vape360 can you discuss the failure rate of boards moving or becoming dislodged?
HAHA i was worried about that. It is a stress ball. lol
I have no idea what the failure rate is, but it happened to me. That is why I believe the upgrade is worthwhile. And as also mentioned, provape didn't, and or doesn't offer this service to an old device.
Of course, when I ordered my mini blems, I had provape add the p3 top. Because I know that even if that board does move, provape will fix it! Yes they will!!
Sorry for lashing out like I did Lexi, that was uncalled for. I was reading something into your post that wasn't there. I'm in a bad place right now...that's not an excuse... just saying is all.
{{{Lexi}}}
{{{Enaud}}}
Me too E...
{{{Enaud}}}
Me too E...
I hope everything is OK, E. Hang in there, man.
Ooops! I meant, "... Four."
FIVE. <wub>
What sort of stress, Vic?
Lexi, Enuad, thank you for being you(s). I appreciate you both, as you both speak your mind, unafraid, unabashed. I love reading you both.
More wub.
What sort of stress, Vic?
Lexi, Enuad, thank you for being you(s). I appreciate you both, as you both speak your mind, unafraid, unabashed. I love reading you both.
More wub.
I didn't even know there was a 2.5 stealth mini. I'd die to have one with P3 top cap.The one in the classifieds is sweet but has slanted top cap and I ain't got that kinda extra cash right now. Does anybody else have one? Pics?
My name is lizziebith, and I'm addicted to minis!
I think you should pass that old junky Stealth Mini on to another forum member.
Maybe I could find something to use it for.
I actually thought about buying a used mini and painting it OD green. I can't quite figure out how I could stealth the button and window.
Maybe a sharpie. But I still wanna use the window.
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