When I screw on my atty when the ohm meter is on it'll read it at zero, turn it back on and it'll read 0.11 ohms. I have a 6 wrap dual parallel on my Plume Veil 1.5 and it came out to 0.13 ohms on my friend's ohm meter, and was constant (turning on/off his ohm meter, screwing off and on, etc). I can't tell if mine is off or if there's something wrong with the connection. I cleaned out the post of the ohm meter and made sure there's no kanthal in there and it's still acting up. Is it best just to get a new ohm meter? And a side question, would any contact with metals short/mess up the connection on the ohm meter? If this helps any I had a metallic marble sitting on top of the post to take a quick picture but left it there on accident when I left for work. Thank you.
Ohm meter possibly broke? Need help!
- Thread starter Zaheer
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Your build is too low, meaning that you basically have a short. Check my response on the other thread you opened on the subject.
Get one of these. They are auto-ranging and provide a 3rd hand mount for re-coiling. Mine is accurate and compares to both my VOM's.
Last edited:
That's what I have and it is still reading 0.11 ohms with 0.00 reads screwing the atty on compared to my friend's which is reading 0.13 ohms. I'm currently vaping it on a 38a battery and no signs of getting extremely hot so I would like to think my friend's ohm meter is accurate and mine will need to be replaced
A .11 ohm reading is so close to a dead short your meter may not be accurate enough to measure the difference .
In the real world of electronic repair, micro-ohm reading multi meters, that actually are reliable and acurrate, cost several hundred dollars.
The little black Chinese ohm reading boxes are cheap because they use a very feature limited chip to measure resistance. Any variance in build quality inside the box may cause some inaccuracy.
Not to preach but using a .11 build and depending on cheap gear for accuracy is how super sub ohm vaping gets dangerous.
In the real world of electronic repair, micro-ohm reading multi meters, that actually are reliable and acurrate, cost several hundred dollars.
The little black Chinese ohm reading boxes are cheap because they use a very feature limited chip to measure resistance. Any variance in build quality inside the box may cause some inaccuracy.
Not to preach but using a .11 build and depending on cheap gear for accuracy is how super sub ohm vaping gets dangerous.
You could also be intermittently making contact with the center contact on the ohm meter, since it sometimes reads zero and then reads .11. Your buddy's meter reads .13, which is close enough to be inside the spec variance. All it takes it a little too much force on a 510 connection and the center contact gets pushed in a little. After that, they can become intermittent.
If you leave it off until the atty is completely connected and then turn it on is it reading the same every time?
.11 and .13 are way closer that what the common tolerance for error is on the typical cheap 510 connection ohm meters like we are using, thats one of the downsides of the meters we use all the time.
On either of yours, if you gently bump your fingers against the coils does the resistance readout change when you bump it with a finger or something?
Have you tried different atties or maybe a clearomizer or something with a higher ohm readout to see what your ohm meter does then with something with a different 510 connector?
.11 and .13 are way closer that what the common tolerance for error is on the typical cheap 510 connection ohm meters like we are using, thats one of the downsides of the meters we use all the time.
On either of yours, if you gently bump your fingers against the coils does the resistance readout change when you bump it with a finger or something?
Have you tried different atties or maybe a clearomizer or something with a higher ohm readout to see what your ohm meter does then with something with a different 510 connector?
- Status
Similar threads
