ohms to low? and general questions

[kam967]

Hay guys/and girls.
Im new to vaping, only about 3 weeks in, but ive been trying to do my research. anyway i got my first mechanical mod the other day and had the guy at the shop set up the coil and everything (dual coil with one of thoes green batteries . coil diamiter looks a bit smaller than what ive seen others using.)

any way i finaly got an ohm meter and pluged my adomizer into it and its reading 0.21 ohms, that means each coil is only 0.42 ohms and with a 4.2v battery thats a draw of 20 amps which to me seems incredibly high. I thought most coil builds were around 1 ohm per coil, maby .8, but ive never seen anything around 0.42.

My question is, is this ohm reading to low and do i need to take it back to have the coils rebuilt? Will this low of ohm produced to much heat and burn my juice? I want a setup that gives thick but smoth clouds on a 3-5 second drag. My current set up gives amazing vape vape production but i feel if i were to take a drag that was longer thatn 2 seonds it would it would burn the wick (cotton). I did tell him i wanted it to smoke like a dragon, but i dont know if this is pussing it into unsafe territory. its also a bit harsh, not shure if its because of the setup or if im just new.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Lessifer]

Hay guys/and girls.
Im new to vaping, only about 3 weeks in, but ive been trying to do my research. anyway i got my first mechanical mod the other day and had the guy at the shop set up the coil and everything (dual coil with one of thoes green batteries . coil diamiter looks a bit smaller than what ive seen others using.)

any way i finaly got an ohm meter and pluged my adomizer into it and its reading 0.21 ohms, that means each coil is only 0.42 ohms and with a 4.2v battery thats a draw of 20 amps which to me seems incredibly high. I thought most coil builds were around 1 ohm per coil, maby .8, but ive never seen anything around 0.42.

My question is, is this ohm reading to low and do i need to take it back to have the coils rebuilt? Will this low of ohm produced to much heat and burn my juice? I want a setup that gives thick but smoth clouds on a 3-5 second drag. My current set up gives amazing vape vape production but i feel if i were to take a drag that was longer thatn 2 seonds it would it would burn the wick (cotton). I did tell him i wanted it to smoke like a dragon, but i dont know if this is pussing it into unsafe territory.

Thanks for the help.

First, find out exactly what that "green" battery is. That is the most important thing. If it is Sony, depending on which one it is, you are just at or just over it's Amp limit which could potentially lead it to vent. Your math is right, so you just need to know that your batteries can handle the amp draw.

As for the vape itself, there are a lot of variables. Airflow, juice flow/wicking are the most important. I think it would be a good idea to try a somewhat higher resistance setup, just to see how you like it and if it's worth it for you to vape so low.

 

[wshanncap]

Everyone has their own taste as to how hot to build the coils. I (almost) never go below 0.5 ohm. I just don't like the flavor when the juice is that hot. It looks like he built your coils to push the battery to the limit of its safe zone. I would suggest you learn to build your own coils. It's not hard at all and I rather enjoy the task. Always check your resistance before firing. I'm glad you have a meter. Here are a few links that you might be able to use.

Ohms Law Calculator

Coil Wrapping Guide

Video Basic Coil Building

 

[dice57]

well if one of those green batteries happen to be a Sony VTC4 or 5, then you are within the batts safe firing zone, as long as everything is maintained well and kept a close eye on.

Basically, being so new and all, it would be a way lower build than I would ever start someone out at, for sure. People who build generally won't go that low till they are competent builders and know their vape chit.

Personally, I don't have a problem running an 0.2 ohm build on one of my green batts, but then know what the frak I am doing and learned how to build wick and use Ohm's law.


Vape long and Prosper.!!!

 

[DaveSignal]

If your using a high drain battery (at least 20A continuous), it is safe. Hopefully the green battery is a vtc4 or vtc5.

I have lots of rdas and build the majority of them at .21 ohm. It is the perfect vape. This is 6 wraps 24g kanthal or 8 wraps nichrome around a 5/64, dual coil. It is perfect for any rda with good airflow. I do also use chuff-style caps of friction-fit wide-bore drip tips, but these are not needed.

Your build is good to go and the guy at the shop you bought the setup from knows what he is doing. If it was my shop, I would have built it the same way and given you a vtc5 battery.

 

[mix1983]

Oy, not sure if I even want to touch this thread. They should have never sent you out the door with a possible hazard in your hand. As Lessifer said, "green battery" is not the information you should have left the store with. You should find that out asap.

If they tell you they're Sony batteries ($10 says they do), make them prove it.

As far as burning your juice, you're more likely to burn the wick itself if it wasn't done correctly.

I have a.. disrespect for shops that have this business model. It's very obvious why they do it, and it is the antithesis of the majority of the vaping community.

 

[kam967]

I just checket the battery, its a se 18650vtc4. i just checked on line and it sais it has a continuous discharge current of 30A but ied love a second opinion.

Im thinking of building a coil a slightly larger diamiter for more beter wicking and one more loop for added resistance to cool it down. will i still get the same supper thick clowds if I take a longer draw? I know theres alot of variavles at play, so best assumption wold do.

 

[DaveSignal]

I just checket the battery, its a se 18650vtc4. i just checked on line and it sais it has a continuous discharge current of 30A but ied love a second opinion.

Im thinking of building a coil a slightly larger diamiter for more beter wicking and one more loop for added resistance to cool it down. will i still get the same supper thick clowds if I take a longer draw? I know theres alot of variavles at play, so best assumption wold do.

It will wick fine if you are not chokeing it with cotton. The cotton should be a snug fit, but loose enough that you can pull on it without jerking the coil. And make sure there is room for airflow in front, underneath, and on top of the coil. If you open your airflow wider, the coil will stay cool. What RDA are you using?

 

[edyle]

I just checket the battery, its a se 18650vtc4. i just checked on line and it sais it has a continuous discharge current of 30A but ied love a second opinion.

Im thinking of building a coil a slightly larger diamiter for more beter wicking and one more loop for added resistance to cool it down. will i still get the same supper thick clowds if I take a longer draw? I know theres alot of variavles at play, so best assumption wold do.

I'd suggest you get some 28 gauge kanthal and make your own coil.
2mm diameter, about 7 wraps, that would put you in the 1 ohm range.

I'd recommend using a regulated mod to build on initially.

Once you got your single coil down right; you can later add a second coil; that will drop your combined resistance to less than an ohm and at that stage you put it on the mech.

 

[kam967]

not quite sure what brand RDA im using, dont have the box. its a drip RDA with 3 leads, best way to describe the logo on it is a christmass tree shaped logo with an arow in side of it pointing up. maby you can tell me what it is, cant find it on line.

spoke to soon, looks like a Tobh 2.5V atty

 

[DaveSignal]

not quite sure what brand RDA im using, dont have the box. its a drip RDA with 3 leads, best way to describe the logo on it is a christmass tree shaped logo with an arow in side of it pointing up. maby you can tell me what it is, cant find it on line.

sounds like the Tobh. Great atty! Make sure the airflow holes are directly in front of each coil. And make sure that there is room (no packed cotton) for the air to flow directly at, underneath, and on top of the coil. Just tuck the cotton on the sides on either side of the coils. You can do .21 ohm with that atty. If the wick is burning, it isn't wicked right or your air-flow holes are not in the right place.

 

[edyle]

not quite sure what brand RDA im using, dont have the box. its a drip RDA with 3 leads, best way to describe the logo on it is a christmass tree shaped logo with an arow in side of it pointing up. maby you can tell me what it is, cant find it on line.

spoke to soon, looks like a Tobh 2.5V atty

This

notaclone

 

[DaveSignal]

here is how my Tobh 2.5 is built:

That is also .21 ohm, but I am using nichrome in that build. You would have less wraps with kanthal. Notice how the cotton isn't piled up underneath the coils and that all three of my airflow holes are open and directly in front of the coils.

 

[kam967]

yep, thats the one. my wire gauge looks a bit smaler and I only have 6 coils, my diamiter also looks a bit smaller, but it may just be the photo

 

[DaveSignal]

yep, thats the one. my wire gauge looks a bit smaler and I only have 6 coils, my diamiter also looks a bit smaller, but it may just be the photo

i vaped some of the juice in there and tried to get a bit better lighting:

but that is 24g nichrome. you probably have 24g kanthal wrapped around the same diameter.... if your resistance tester is correct.

 

[Train2]

+ good for you for checking the ohms and not just throwing it on a mech and firing it up!
+ the shop - they gave you what you asked for - a cloud-blowing monster setup
--> You DO need proper wicking and airflow to prevent burning with it
--> You DO need one of the few batteries that can handle that kind of draw. The VTC4 will do it...
--> You DO want to learn to build your own coils, too - and try a few setups. Personally, I don't LIKE big airflow and really low resistance...I've done it, but I prefer a tighter draw, and something around 0.8-ish.

 

[kam967]

now that i take a better look in that picture it looks just about the same as my setup, just fewer coils. thanks for the wicking advice. I just did a quick rewick to give better space around the coil and its a world of differece. much better.

 

[DaveSignal]

now that i take a better look in that picture it looks just about the same as my setup, just fewer coils. thanks for the wicking advice. I just did a quick rewick to give better space around the coil and its a world of differece. much better.

No problem dude! You have a great atty and it will chuck the clouds at .21. I take deep lung hits with it and I don't get any burning wicks. I think it is even better with a chuff-style top cap.
something like this:

 

[etherealink]

OK, rebuilding for over a year has taught me many things..

First, shame on the shop for not giving you exact specifics on what you were holding or the battery that was running it. I nearly strangle the guys at my local shop for this daily.

Second, if it is in fact a Sony vtc4 or vtc5 then you are just fine pushing that resistance. I put 0.09 ohms through them all day and have no issues. Keep in mind that I change batteries every few hours and test them every few days for wear and problems from use.

I want to say a few things about content, but I will let you get your feet wet first. The best rule is simple... if anything other than your coil gets hot TAKE IT APART!!

No battery is worth putting a pipe-bomb in your teeth, just check the report from the last Vape Blast... where a mod blew up. Yea, think bomb.

Scientifically, resistance wire is simple: length and diameter equals resistance. The numbers on what gauge and length equal what resistance are easy to get. If you are not sure, ask and verify it... twice.

And no, you are never wrong to ask. We all started somewhere, and please... guard the magic blue screwdriver with your life, you cannot vape without it!

Lol, sorry, just needed a joke!

 

[HBcorpse]

Literally some of the scariest sh-t I've ever read...